Moving studs

I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I worked on this weekend.
The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" to the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should have my bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do this?
I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I move the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the fixture hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and move a stud 4" then put the paneling back up.
Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple to do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall to reroute a wiring run.
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Eigenvector wrote:

Ha! I like your solution. Leave the cedar siding alone.
But is the sheathing (ply?) nailed into that stud? Worse if 2 sheets of sheathing meet there.
Jim
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Why actually move the whole thing? If I understand you, this is just an exterior wall interior (as in between corners) stud whose only real structural purpose is to serve as a nailing surface for the siding. Why not just cut out what you need to get access and run a stringer across the top and bottom and be done?
Again, can't really envision what the end objective is, but seems to me moving the whole existing stud would be more effort than necessary.
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Since there's apparently wire, a hole, and a fixture already in place, why do you have to move anything? You aren't making any sense.
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I'm with Speedy and you. If you can work from the inside you disturb less.
Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud? You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the sheathing. You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then sister a new stud to the original.
T
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All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys.
Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out while I was installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my previous post on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs were structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving it would be better.
I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to the stud, one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting stringers up would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it would weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.
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Just commenting on the structual aspect: I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable end wall but...
Harry K
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wrote:

Well I can still install another stud if it looks iffy. Wouldn't be that hard at all
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wrote: | >> >> I'm gonna move a stud over to help accomodate a light fixture that I | >> >> worked | >> >> on this weekend. | >> | >> >> The way I see it, if I move the stud over 4", then put another stud 4" | >> >> to | >> >> the other side of the where the first stud was originally I should | >> >> have | >> >> my | >> >> bases covered. Should I use a stringer between the studs if I do | >> >> this? | >> | >> >> I know, moving a stud to work on a light seems like overkill but if I | >> >> move | >> >> the light I'd have to rerun the wiring, repair the siding where the | >> >> fixture | >> >> hole is, when I could just remove some vaneer paneling in a closet and | >> >> move | >> >> a stud 4" then put the paneling back up. | >> | >> >> Am I just being crazy here? Seems like moving a stud would be simple | >> >> to | >> >> do - simpler than repairing cedar siding planks and tearing out a wall | >> >> to | >> >> reroute a wiring run. | >> | >> > I'm with Speedy and you. | >> > If you can work from the inside you disturb less. | >> | >> > Was the fixture fastened through the siding and to the stud? | >> > You don't have to move the entire stud, which should be nailed to the | >> > sheathing. | >> > You might saw out the piece you need for access to the wiring, then | >> > sister a new stud to the original. | >> | >> > T | >> | >> All excellent comments from all of you - thanks guys. | >> | >> Originally I had considered using the jigsaw to cut the stud out while I | >> was | >> installing the light - or rather the replacement light (see my previous | >> post | >> on "help with porchlight"). I wasn't sure if the exterior studs were | >> structural or not so I opted to not cut it and decided that moving it | >> would | >> be better. | >> | >> I actually totally forgot that the sheathing would be attached to the | >> stud, | >> one more headache I missed. Cutting the stud then putting stringers up | >> would work totally. Like I said I just wasn't sure if cutting it would | >> weaken the framing and do more damage in the long run.- Hide quoted | >> text - | >> | >> - Show quoted text - | > | > Just commenting on the structual aspect: | > I was taught that all exterior walls are to be considered load | > bearing. Now I don't agree with that in the case of a simple gable | > end wall but... | > | > Harry K | > | | Well I can still install another stud if it looks iffy. Wouldn't be that | hard at all
why move the stud? why not just install an electrical "pan" box on the stud?
the stud you are moving or cutting could be holding up the ridge or window/door header. |
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I thought of that initially. I actually have the pan box attached to the sheathing, if I could attach it to the stud I'd have to move the light and that would entail repairing my siding and possibly pulling the wire. Besides, I can't stand those pan boxes - my pudgy fingers just aren't nimble enough.
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