Mounting 2 x 4 to block wall ?

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I want to mount a PT 2 x 4 to a cinder block wall in my basement, in order to build some shelves.
What is the best way to do this ? These shelves may hold a max of 100 lbs.
I have seen those lead "sleeves" which I suppose you screw lag bolts into. Is that the best method ?
Are there other products which are easier to use ?
I do have some mortor bits, so I am guessing that I can drill into this wall ok. I don't think it is poured solid at this place in the wall.
Thanks for any tips.
James
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No lead anchors and lags are not the best for hollow masonry, those are good for solid slabs. For hollow cinder block I would not use any anchor that expands in its hole. I would rather use a butterfly (or mushroom style) molly bolt so as not to crack a block with a hole expanding anchor. Better to have an anchor that expands on the other side of the hole like a mushroom or butterfly molly. Quarter inch bolts should be fine for 100lbs on 16-24 inch centers.
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wrote:

No lead anchors and lags are not the best for hollow masonry, those are good for solid slabs. For hollow cinder block I would not use any anchor that expands in its hole. I would rather use a butterfly (or mushroom style) molly bolt so as not to crack a block with a hole expanding anchor. Better to have an anchor that expands on the other side of the hole like a mushroom or butterfly molly. Quarter inch bolts should be fine for 100lbs on 16-24 inch centers.
I agree with RickH. Toggle bolts would be best for hollow block. 1/4" or larger should work fine. You just need to drill your holes in the hollow areas. If it is real cinder block you can drill with a masonry bit and a good drill. However if you have cement block you will need a hammer drill.
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wrote:

There are special blue concrete screws you can purchase at the Borg or Lowes. You will need to purchase a mason bit of the proper pilot size specified on the package. Just before fastening the ledger to the wall, put a heavy bead of construction adhesive to the 2x4. Dry your lumber first or purchase kiln-dried PT stock.
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TapCons
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James,
Take a look at toggle bolts when you next enter a hardware store.
Dave M.
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wrote:

I'd plan on it holding 500 - but that's easy.

I like Tapcons- http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/tapcon-screw/installation.aspx
Get the ones with a hex head. Pick up a 1/2 hammer drill for about $50 and you'll love these things. Clean the hole out well with the bit-- use a hex driver to seat them. [the last few boxes of 25 (50?) that have I bought came with the right size drill and a hex driver.]
Jim
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Tapcons are your friend.
s

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Very good responses from all, thanks !!
Whether I use blue concrete screws or a toggle type molly bolt, do these products come with a long enough screw so as to go through a 2 x 4 , and still have enough length to screw into the anchor or molly bolt ?
James
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wrote:

the Tapcons come up to 6" long. http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/tapcon-screw/installation.aspx
Jim
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wrote:

I would even consider Liquid Nails and a few fasteners from a Hilti Nail Gun (powder charge) You can rent one.
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...unless the wall has been painted.
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i like pl construction adhesive more than liquid nails, i find it to be superior on masonry. -c

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what is pl construction adhesive ??
---------------------------------
i like pl construction adhesive more than liquid nails, i find it to be superior on masonry. -c
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that is good stuff.
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I used the plastic anchors and all purpose (sheetrock) screws to fasten 2x2 to non-vertical/non straight block walls. Insulated between with 1" styro foam sheets and sheetrocked. Did that in 1/2 the basement. Looks great and still ther with no problems 20 years later.
I also built shelves using nothing but the shelf brackets, plastic anchors and all purpose screws. Also still there after 15 years.
I don't have anythign heavy stored on those shelves (yet) but the brackets are the heavy duty ones and I would have no qualms about loading the shelves heavily.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

A lot of people think the load is torque - not so. Most of the load (98%) from bookshelves and the like, is straight down, not out. If, in the OP's case, the 2x4 backing sits on the floor, a piddly bit of string will hold a couple of tons of books in place. (I exaggerate, but not by much).
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really? put a 12" shelf on the wall and put the weight on the front edge. the load is almost all torque.
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Never mind HeyBub. Every so often, he posts messages when he's sober. That wasn't the case with the message you responded to.
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message

I was going to pass on torque but here it shows up 3 times. Torque is twisting motion. I believe you mean tension for pulling out and shear for the sliding down motion. [g]

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