Sorry to hear that. I'm also losing confidence in batteries of various brand. I've heard that rechargable nickel metal hydrides don't leak.
One friend of mine who lives in the south uses NiMH D cells in his lantern.
Know what you mean about not trusting things. I no longer trust Rayovac D cells, having had more than 60 of them leak. That size and brand will never again be left in any device.
. Christ> i just had two more leakers today... 2x Duracell
C cells in a flashlight, dated 2022... well it's
2013 and I'm sick of having to clean this white powder BS out of my devices! and the cells were still strong too, light was super bright. I f**king hate alkalines and can't wait until I get rid of them all! I would have never noticed were I not deliberately checking for leakage... (This isn't a light I use often, it sits in nightstand drawer in case power goes out while I'm asleep) got worried when I had to use a piece of shelf liner to get enough grip on the tailcap to unscrew it... *&^%$^&*)*!!!!
are the ones that came included with the flashlight when bought it! And now won't trust it as it's been compromised...
Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!
As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out $30ish. Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...
I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...
Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)
CY: Which is fine, if you have the skills to change out the clock mechanism. Many folks don't. Flashlights? Yes, sure is nice to see what I'm working on, I'm a repair guy. I use my minimag nearly every day. Also to be able to walk around at night when the power is out. Or outdoors. A couple days ago, I visited some friends who live out in the country. Needed my light to get back to the car, it sure gets dark.
CY: I think I've seen those in Home Depot. Did you try to clean out the crud? They do look like fun, but I've got other lights.
Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
CY: Oops, maybe better that I don't have one?
CY: Sounds like there was enough "in date" left, they should have been fine. But were not, of course. I have a couple of lights I really should check and replace the batteries. i've heard Mag C or D lights leak, because the tail cap spring is very powerful.
CY: I've had excellent results with the stay charged NiMH. I have some for my pocket light and digital camera. I rotate them every couple days with charged ones, so maybe it's not a true test.
I'm going to have to do that
CY: I had a Simpson. It got crushed in the back of my van, and that was a very sad moment. I found that very useful meter.
Don't let my comments about the Task Force (Lowes) light discourage you from buying it, if you think it will be useful to you. For $30 it is a hell of a little light with the only functional drawback being that it is not waterproof. The machining is a little crude on the threads but other than that can't complain too much. It was a great deal maybe 3-4 years ago when it was introduced (which is why it became my default "stash in strategic locations" light); if they still sell them, get the
2-C cell one with the 3W Cree LED.
Compared to, say, a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff LED drop in, it ain't much (actually light output is comparable but the quality of the Surefire is so much better) but it will blow your mag-lite away.
And literally as I started typing this the power went out, so having flashlights is a Good Thing (tm). Gotta go power down and shut off the beepers on all the UPS units.
CY: Thank you. It does look like a good light. Pocket size, barely. And appears to have good light output. I am up to my eyes in debt, and can't really afford the money. I also have other lights that are able to do what I need, so can't justify the cost. But, it does look fun.
CY: Harbor Freight has similar problem. I have to put a dab of grease or Vaseline on the threads. They are much better, then. The three AAA cell short lights from HF have really coarse threads.
CY: Sounds good. I have assortment of lights that take two AA cells. Some of them are brighter than my old Duracell Durabeam, which takes 2 D cells and doesn't fit at all well in my pocket.
CY: Some of the LED lights now days are really awe inspiring. The earlier LED were blue, which I didn't like. But the Mag LED with factory installed bulb, are pure white. Wish I had more money to buy more.
CY: Git im. Hope you got your flash light cleaned out, so you can have light. Water can remove some of the white crud, but sometimes the terminals are corroded.
On a Yahoo! email list, another writer reminds me she had a LOT of Rayovac D cells leak. And you had Duracells.
Oh, forgot. If you can't save that Lowe's light, you can mail it back to Duracell for their warranty replace- ment. The one time I did that, Dura sent me a debit card. I was only able to use the debit card three times, and then it locked up on me. So, spend it fast and in one place if you get a debit card from them. Cost me about $15 to mail the light, for a $30 debit card, so it wasn't a huge money maker.
Sure has been unhappy for me, pitching over 60 Rayovac D cells into the trash. Ah, well. They did ship replacement cells for the first batch, and promised coupons for the second. So, they do honor the leak replace guarantee.
. Christ> Don't let my comments about the Task Force (Lowes) light discourage you
Well, the light was functioning, it was just on a whim that I pulled it out to check it and was unable to unscrew the tailcap without tools. I've already got the metal bits soaking in a Mason jar, although that's as far as I got as the kitchen is kind of dark (north-east facing window with trees close by) and I hosed the switch down with Deoxit. Hopefully that will be all that's required.
The annoying thing is I literally just got another batch of NiMHs in the mail two days ago and am waiting for the Chinese eBay dude to get back to me about a quantity purchase of the cell adapters that we were discussing, but too late to prevent incident with this light.
I always grease threads and O-rings as a matter of course but for some reason hadn't on this light...
CY: Sounds like a very good whim. I think I should go around and check all my battery devices. A couple days ago, I found a leaky AA cell in the shaver I keep in the truck.
CY: Since the crud is alkaline, it should be water soluble. My guess is you dry out the light, and it should be OK. Might want to put some grease on the contacts, and on the tail cap threads. Kitchen dark? use a flashlight. (I know; not funny, Chris!)
CY: Man, that's some rough timing. Isn't that the way? The bright side, maybe some lurkers are reading this, and will get the idea to go check all their batteries.
CY: Are your newly arrived batteries charged? So you can use them during your power cut?
CY: Ah, well. Can't remember every thing all the time. As much as you and I do try.
Well, power came back on and light seems to be working... but I have only two C cells in the entire house (out of another similar light) fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging from my belt because I'm planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later today so I looked spectacularly prepared :)
I guess I will have to drive to Micro Center later because I know that they sell the Tenergy Centura C cells there... I have two crappy old "CTA" brand C cells that I think I got from DX but having abused them on a dumb charger for years I think that their capacity is probably more like an AA now...
CY: I've heard a few bad things about Rayovac. Please consider some other brand when you go to buy.
CY: we never doubted you. You have my respect. I also try to stay within reach of a battery light of some kind, at all times.
CY: I'm not familiar with that brand. Please consider telephone before you drive. With a power cut, the herds of sheeple may have gone and bought them all. C cells often sell out last, as fewer people have C cell flash lights, I find.
I have two crappy old
CY: Some C and D rechargable are rated for 2500, so they are more like AA.
Yeah, I have one to replace (noting to do with leaking, though). OTOH, my Internet (clock) radios are not cheap.
I don't think I have a flashlight that I paid half that for. I just bought a couple of $1 3xAAA HFs. If the batteries leak, I'm really not that concerned.
A car is the worst environment for a battery that one can imagine. It's amazing that starter batteries last as long as they do.
There are many reasons I don't own a '260 but I get your point. I do take the batteries out of my laser levels, and such. I probably only use them once or twice a year and at ~$100 each, it's easier to pull the batteries.
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing discussion with a frien d of mine regarding the "cheap and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of his tools are from the Freight.
Now, if you run the numbers - he's probably right from an economic perspect ive, and I'm powerless to argue against it. However, there's an intangible satisfaction from knowing that your tools are going to work at a moment's notice.
The same discussion applies here. I like my Surefire flashlight. There's really no economic justification for having it, but it feels quality in the hand, the threads are butter smooth, and I *know* deep down inside that if it fails to work, that new cells will fix it, because there's really no ot her failure mode that is likely. But for what it cost, I could have bought four of the TF lights, or a whole shedload of HF lights.
BUT... when you make that decision, then you have to use quality cells, bec ause you don't want your quality device to die a premature death because of leaking cells.
a) I'm way too lazy to pull the cells from items that aren't in current use . sometimes it's just impractical (see below.)
b) I have WAY too many devices that use various cells. Downstairs, I have SIX remote controls, each of which uses two AA or AAA cells, because of all the stuff rscked up in the TV stand (TV, receiver, cable box, PS3, CD play er, VCR, tuner) some of which would be prohibitively expensive to replace w ere they destroyed - my tuner is a Sangean HDT-1x which has been discontinu ed for several years now, and were it to die I don't know what I would repl ace it with as any comparable unit is much more expensive than what I paid for it! So I have an incentive to keep the remote functioning. Probably t he smart thing to do would be to suck it up and get one of those Logitech H armony remotes, which would also likely make the home entertainment system usable by the non-technically-inclined... but they're 'spensive too. That, a few battery powered tools, and a couple smaller flashlights that operate off AAs is where the first batch of NiMHs that I bought ended up.
Agree somewhat, but the cells were still well charged, usually it is when t hey are discharged that they leak.
Well, I also have two Fluke meters that use 9V batteries... for some reaso n those don't seem to leak nearly as often as single cells though.
I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching to NiMH is in the cards.
Read the package very carefully. I've found that most NiMH D cells on the market are the same amp-hour rating as it's sister AA. In fact I've opened a few and found an AA cell inside, complete with the label it would have if sold in a package.
There are physical adapters to do that. I've tried them and they work but the difference in ahr capacity makes for very little run time per charge.
Good man. I have three, two in perfect condition, the third a little wounded but usable. I have lots of digital too but once in a while the old one earns it's keep.
Most are really simple. Pull off the hands, unscrew the nut around the hub, pull motor - reverse the process. The motors are available in many hobby type stores, for cheap.
That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I can't afford cheap tools.
For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out. OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)
One of the HFs will more likely be within reach, too. ;-)
The problem is that they all leak. The only advantage of the expensive brands is the warranty. That's too late, IMO.
I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.) that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.
Yeah, doesn't everyone? Mine go through batteries fast enough that they don't leak. I don't think I've had a set of batteries in a remote last a year for decades.
Heat is a killer. Do *NOT* store cordless tools in a garage. Lead-acid chemistry is more tolerant that others but heat still destroys car batteries. It's not cold that kills them. That's just when you find out that the last summer did them in.
I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away and not come home.
I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do electronics on my time. ;-)
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of his tools are from the Freight.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which ones.
CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket helps find the real flash light in storage.
CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.
flashlight. There's really no economic justification for having it, but it feels quality in the hand, the threads are butter smooth, and I *know* deep down inside that if it fails to work, that new cells will fix it, because there's really no other failure mode that is likely. But for what it cost, I could have bought four of the TF lights, or a whole shedload of HF lights.
CY:Nice that someone out there has quality.
CY: Yeah, a HF in the hand beats....
to use quality cells, because you don't want your quality device to die a premature death because of leaking cells.
CY: I've had enough leak. You're right, none is exempt.
CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.
few battery powered tools, and a couple smaller flashlights that operate off AAs is where the first batch of NiMHs that I bought ended up.
CY: neat, I also use NiMH in my daily driver flash light.
for some reason those don't seem to leak nearly as often as single cells though.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box. If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching to NiMH is in the cards.
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