Does anyone have tips on how to fill the gaps between the molding and wall since a flat wall does not exist? We've tried using various types of caulk which does work great but its a magnet for dust that sticks and is very hard to get off.
Thanks
On 5/24/2008 11:31 AM snipped-for-privacy@galaxy.nsc.com spake thus:
So far as the dust-magnet problem goes, it shouldn't really matter what you use to fill the gap, as it should ultimately be covered by paint (so whatever you use needs to be paintable).
We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do you have to do you varathain the caulk?
On 5/24/2008 11:48 AM snipped-for-privacy@galaxy.nsc.com spake thus:
If by "wood look" you mean unpainted, varnished wood, then the caulk or filler should probably be painted the same color as the adjacent wall. It'll look funny (read: bad) if you try to varnish it.
Of course, it all depends on the width and geometry of the gap. But if the gap is more or less consistent along the molding, then it should just be painted to blend into the wall.
Paintable caulk. Finish with either paint or clear finish, same as wall/molding.
Give us some help here. We don't know the width of the crack. Off hand I would suggest painters putty, but it depends. I would first try eliminating or minimizing the crack.
I have used strips of wood to fill some gaps that are too open for caulk. Some molding can follow a crooked wall more than others. Best to be fussy with crown molding, as it will always be easily seen by everyone.
We're thinking about switching to a wood look instead of painted, do you have to do you varathain the caulk?
If you already have a gap problem with painted molding, switching to wood will just make a worse.
I have put up crown molding in every room, and replaced all the baseboards in my home. I buy DAP Elastomeric caulk. I caulk the joint, push it in with a finger, then take a sharp putty knife and scrape the joint. Since there is some shrinkage if there is a big gap, I do it again. After painting, it is a perfect joint every time.
But even before that, scribing and light planing helps when installing it to minimize any imperfections in the walls.
just to clarify, these are baseboards. Ive tried using the recommended glue and it didnt work well so I will nail it. Sanding down the wall could be a good solution
It's far easier to mix up a bit of drywall compound and make the bottom of the wall flat where the baseboard installs. Pro drywallers do this routinely. If they didn't, the finish carpenters would walk off the job and drywallers would get called back to do it over free. Simply use a good long straightedge and mud and sand to a flat level line and your prepainted base mold should look fine without touch up. HTH
Joe
wrote
Would drywall mudd work?
On 5/25/2008 9:10 AM cshenk spake thus:
"Mudd"? You mean like Roger Mudd?
Yep, mud and a "finger", then smooth with a wet sponge while still soft
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