Hate to have to ask about something so trivial-sounding, but ...
If I get mold/mildew on the grout in the shower, I can scrub it off
with Tilex and an old toothbrush.
Such approach doesn't work at all for m/m on the tub caulk, and I dunno why.
can trap soap scum, water and
whatever else is in the shower - mildew grows in what is trapped.
Wiping with straight bleach might
get rid of the mildew, and leaving the shower open to air circulation
when not in use should help. I
recently started using Scrubbin Bubbles in our shower - much better
results with much less work
than Tilex or CLR. CLR is still very good for lime.
It is opaque white caulk that was applied around the tub top about
2 years ago. The black stuff (presumed mold/mildew) is on the
surface of the caulk.
I fairly drowned it in Clorox, scrubbed with an old toothbrush. Had
no effect at all.
Shot a few inches of it with Scrubbing Bubbles 3 times and scrubbed.
Like water off a duck's back.
Aside from mold/mildew, I dunno what it could be, but it doesn't
come off with any of the household chemicals discussed here.
The ease and inexpensiveness of replacing the caulk around your tubor any
other appliance in your home makes this an easy solve.
Tools you will need: A putty knife or other tool to remove old caulk. New
caulk. A damp sponge or rag.
1. Get a putty knife or a flat head screw driver or even a butter knife and
scrape all the old caulk out. Make sure that you remove all of it off the
walls and edge of tub, so the new caulk has a clean place to adhere.
2. Spray some bleach diluted with water around the edge to kill whatever
mildew is still left, allow to air dry.
3. While waiting for the bleach to dry go to your closest hardware store and
get some tub and tile caulk, prefferably made from silicone. How much you
will need depends on the size of your tub. Most stores carry a tube that you
squeeze by hand or you can buy a caulk gun to apply the new caulk. Either
way works just fiine.
4. Once the area is COMPLETELY CLEAN AND DRY, you can begin applying the new
this is an easy process, although it can be quite messy if not done right.
5. Begin applying the caulk making sure to squeeze some, but not too much
down in the crack between the tub and the wall. Try to use a nice even
pressure while doing this. Go all the way around the tub trying not to put
more than about a 1/4 inch bead of caulk as you go. Some areas will have a
larger gap and you will need to apply more caulk to the area.
6. For the final step some people use their finger and a damp rag, or a
sponge. You want to take your index finger and put it inside the rag kind of
like you where going to shine a shoe or something. And wipe all the way
around the tub using slight pressure and a smooth stroke. Or just wipe with
the sponge using the same pressure and stroke. This will imbed the caulk and
make a smooth professional appearance. Do not use too much pressure or the
caulk will begin to squeeze out of the area of applicatioin. Clean up any
mess with your rag. Allow to dry for the time period suggested by the
7. Enjoy your clean tub.
Some stores also carry M/M resistant caulk.
Pert near what I did 2 years ago, except I individually tried to seal
where the caulk met the grout between the tiles, and I filled the tub
while it dried. It wasn't pretty.
It is a Royal and Monumental PITA. And I gotta bad back.
This whole process is very clear, but what I do BEFORE starting Step 5
if I'm feeling anal about having a straight caulk line is to lay down
masking or painter's tape right about where I'd like the line to be.
Then after Step 6, pull up the tape, and voila, a nice neat caulk job.
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