Module Ice Maker Help

I have a module ice maker (apparently made by Whirlpool?) on a Amana fridge that won't fill with water.

The motor works, the heater works, it just doesn't fill with water - been getting hollow cubes for about 2 wks, now no cubes at all.

I checked the water inlet valve on the back of the fridge and it's fine and the inlet line is not plugged. (both were also just replaced a yr ago).

Is there a way to repair this thing or do I have to buy a whole module assembly? ($60.00!)

Pic of ice maker

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Reply to
Ron
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Oh pshaw, on Tue 11 Dec 2007 05:59:22p, Ron meant to say...

Make sure that there is no ice buildup on the line at the point of entryinto the freezer. This does happen, even when everything else seems to be okay. Your symptoms of first getting hollow cubes and then no cubes leads me to think that it was gradually freezing, first limiting the amount of water entering the ice maker, then finally freezing it off altogether.

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

Any water filters involved, in the fridge or a reverse osmosis filter?

Or both?

Reply to
Oren

Already have, clear.

Actually, when I checked the water inlet valve I disconnected the wires from the fridge and used 120V directly to it to test and fill the ice maker tray "manually". Everything worked fine and the cubes came out perfect.

So there is definitely a problem with the ice maker itself.

Reply to
Ron

No, *everything* has been eliminated, it is *definitely* a problem with the ice maker itself

Reply to
Ron

Oh pshaw, on Tue 11 Dec 2007 06:29:23p, Ron meant to say...

Given everything you've said, it would probably be cheaper to replace the module than to have it repaired. Parts for almost everything these days are expensive, even if you repair it yourself. For example, I wanted to replace the detergent dispenser mechanism in a GE dishwasher. The part cost $80+. It was an entry level dishwasher and it made more sense to replace the whole thing.

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

It is probably the valve and not the ice maker itself. This is generally located where the supply line connects to the refrig. I had one that did similar and I guess it first started with the 'partial fill' that caused the hollow cubes, then stopped filling altogether.

That part will probably cost you around $40 and is fairly easy to replace.

Reply to
Mark

Which is the water inlet valve that has already been checked and works fine. BTW, as I wrote in my original post, I just replaced it last yr for about $12.00......$40.00!?

Reply to
Ron

Just took the module off the front of the ice maker, it's nothing but a "circuit board" and what I would call a solenoid.

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What a rip off for $60.00.

Reply to
Ron

Oh pshaw, on Tue 11 Dec 2007 07:09:06p, Ron meant to say...

I couldn't agree more, but a lot of these appliance companies are great rip off artists for parts. I don't know if you can buy just the circuit board, or what the cost might be for that. Probably not cheap in itself.

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

Not even a circuit board. An arrangement of switches driven by the small 'timer motor' (powered by two orange leads). The timer motor drives reduction gears, not visible, which drive the ice maker shaft. You might remove the timer moter via the two small phillips screws and give it a bench test. This removal may also give access to reduction gears. You could even do a slight lube with Pam or some non toxic lubricant. It looks like the two orange wires connect with just a 'push-on' which nicks the insulation to make contact. Easy to get a bad connection there. Also it appears the copper strips likely make contact with mating areas on the icemaker proper. Make sure these areas are clean and that the panel is securely tighened when you replace it to insure solid contact.

If this timer motor doesn't drive, you're SOL.

Reply to
Leroy

For detail and pics on how home icemaker works:

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Reply to
Leroy

Be aware that the icemaker timer motor drives the water inlet valve for a very short time, around seven seconds. If you 'manually filled' for a longer period of time, your water supply valve or water volume is suspect. mebbe some crud in supply line?

Reply to
Leroy

I gave it about 5 seconds (supposedly it's 7.5 seconds) and the cubes were almost full size, so, I guess I'm looking at a new module assembly since all the other parts work, just NO water.

Oh well, for now I'm headed to the Dollar Store for ice trays, money is short right now plus I can keep an eye out for a deal on a new one.

Thanks for your other replies also!

Reply to
Ron

your cheapest fix is buy the icemaker kit. i believe you fill valve is bad, mine did exactly the same thing.

incidently if your feed water comes from a saddle valve open and shut it a couple times, the needle valve may be clogged with debris, thus preventing the water from filling

Reply to
hallerb

Where can I find a kit?

Reply to
Ron

Are you talking about a repair kit or a new ice maker?

Reply to
Ron

Oh pshaw, on Tue 11 Dec 2007 09:28:10p, Ron meant to say...

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Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

Thanks.....agggg, it would be nice if I *knew* what I needed. I have an Amanda fridge, but apparently the ice maker is some kind of "universal" ice maker built by Whirlpool, and installed in about 4 different brands of fridges, so I can't find an *exact* model number. Even though they are all "supposed" to work if the picture looks the same. The one difference is probably the electrical plug so I'm very hesitant to buy something online.

Reply to
Ron

I went round and round with one of these

This guy has the most informative site

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These guys had the best price on parts and they shipped fast
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Take a sharpie pen and park the hub on that gear so you get it back on right (it fits either way) Pinch the hub and pull the gear off. The actual timing contacts are under there on the gear (that is why you mark it, so you don't put it back 180 out of time) If you look at the trace on the outer ring you see a wedge shaped segment about 1/8" wide. That is what triggers the water. When you turn the adjuster you are moving the contact finger in and out, selecting narrower or wider areas on the contact for more or less water. Clockwise is less water. BE CAREFUL about bending those contacts. You can screw it up so bad nothing works. You might be able to clean the one that selects the water valve. The whole plate was $34 when I got one a month ago but I see they want $39 now. The whole thing is $49. You can force a cycle by jumpering the T and H contacts (in the holes in front) with an insulated piece of wire. Once it gets going pretty good pull out the jumper.

Reply to
gfretwell

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