Metal vs. wood fence posts


I've been investigating fence posts. I like this product, theoretically:
http://contractors.masterhalco.com/Contract.nsf/PostMaster.pdf
I priced the posts at Home Depot: ~ $25 each. But the web site says "cost just a little more than wood". I can get treated 4" X 4" wooden posts for <$10.
Does anybody have experience with this product? Any comments welcome.
Thanks a heap, -Zz
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Interesting product. I'd think it would outlast wood by a factor of four to ten. If you plan to live in your house for some years, it may be well worth the difference. It looks to be similar to the way steel is made for sign posts. Have you ever seen a stop sign fail due to post rot?
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I actually held one at the HD, VERRRRRY substantial, and I think I could get away with a 5" auger-hole to install.
And I like the idea of sinking 3 10 X 1-14" screws into the 2" X 4" 's instead of toe-nailing.
Just for the record, no affiliation. Just a google search.
-Zz
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Zz Yzx wrote:

It's marketing. They can say their product is way more expensive than treated posts, or they can choose to compare themselves to Cedar and Redwood and get by with saying "a little more".
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Zz Yzx wrote:

Fooey! Use the metal posts normally found on chain-link fences. Bolt the horizontal runners to the post - either by drilling a hole through the post or by using a bracket.
Metal posts like this are cheaper than wood.
My property backs up to a 200' wide power company easement. Everybody on my side of the field used metal posts; everybody on the other side of the easement used wooden. After hurrican Yikes two years ago, EVERY SINGLE FENCE with wooden poles was down. With the metal posts? Not a one.
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They are a good product to interface with wood. Around where I live, they end up costing less than chain link posts once you factor in all the brackets and endcaps needed for tubing. I'd think the price could come down once the volume of sales picks up.
Just be aware that they are springy. So, you're not going to use a single postmaster to resist permanent side loading without some augmentation or secondary support.
Since the new pressure treated wood these days is suspect at best regarding long term rot resistance in concrete or dirt, I'd definitely give the product a thumbs-up.
I like to use them differently than the manufacturer suggests. I put the "hat brim" side toward the rails, so that each 2 x 4 can go across the whole hat section and can get more screws. I stagger the rails so that one panel's rail is higher, and the next panel's rail is lower, etc. It helps create a much stronger joint, especially if the rail ends split over time.
Then I cover the hat brims on the other side with 2x2's to hide most of the metal glare before I start attaching fence boards. The cosmetic stuff is, of course, optional.
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P.S. Attaching rails on the "hat brim" side also has the added benefit of allowing for cantilevered fence sections (for butting up to places where you can't get or don't want a fence post).
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Thanks all, much appreciated.
-Zz
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wrote:

The PostMaster looks like a great idea, pricey if you need a lot of them. My 4x4 PT mailbox post was primed/painted/installed in 1993--still standing nice and strong. I set it in a hole with the post resting on 2 buckets of gravel, and topped w/ ReadyMix concrete. I recall using temporary sticks and stakes to make it plumb while the concrete sets. One disadvantage of the wooden 4x4 is that it may twist or bow with time, I glue up two 2x4s to make a more stable, stronger 4x4 post. Worked great for my garden gate jamb posts, going on 8 years.
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responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/Metal-vs-wood-fence-posts-425832-.htm rslovell wrote: I used them 8 years ago and they were easy to install and rock solid. I have since bought a new house and I am going to install 16 more (125' fence). They are worth the extra money. My fence simply does not move. I used concrete base.
Zz Yzx wrote:

-------------------------------------
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On Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:34:26 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:

ablefencedeck.com we tear down a lot of fences that were built with c heap metal posts that have bent at the bottom.I replace them with wood trea ted 4x4 s .However if u spend the money and get the thick metal posts meta l is better .If your just goin to lowes/homedepot you get more for your mo ney buying wood posts.
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On 02/05/2014 02:27 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

LOOK AT THE DATE
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On 2/5/2014 3:35 PM, philo wrote:

Sigh. You got me. I'll start the remedial date reading class, in 2005 or so, real soon.
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On 02/05/2014 05:04 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I think I may have mentioned that on another group, on of those Google Groups idiots responded to a five year old post and the OP actually came back to it. I think his reply was : Problem solved.
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On 2/5/2014 3:27 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

with cheap metal posts that have bent at the bottom.I replace them with wood treated 4x4 s .However if u spend the money and get the thick metal posts metal is better .If your just goin to lowes/homedepot you get more for your money buying wood posts.

Please consider taking a remedial English class, perhaps at a local community college.
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