Metal siding and stud spacing on walls


I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4 studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not sure how that will work.
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Why? Just wondering. It seems to me there are more downsides to metal than upsides for interior use.
It is noisy, cold/hot, and difficult to paint once it get grungy. It isn't as strong as plywood to hold shelves & whatnot, and it doesn't have a fire rating like sheetrock. And unless you're getting it for free, I don't think it is less expensive than wood or sheetrock.
-snip-

Why?
Jim
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Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Agree w/ Jim on the (mostly) disadvantages as interior shop wall, just add that typical metal-hanging would be to have horizontal purlins for the metal...
--
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Sheet rock I have to mudd and tape. OSB is ugly and in my area has gone up to 12 bucks a sheet. I thought metal might look nice. White walls with a tan "splashguard" on the bottom about 3 feet up. Tan epoxy floor. You think I wont like it? Can you not just pressure wash the walls?
My thinking is I though the sheets were 3 ffet wide. Wouldnt that put the ends between studs? Wouldnt that make the ends kind of floppy?
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-snip-

Different strokes, I guess. I'd prefer unmudded sheetrock or 5/8ths plywood or exposed studs to metal. But I doubt I'll ever see your shop.
-snip-

You can in *your* shop.

That second 'why' was 'why do you have to run it vertically?'
Jim
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I have never seen it run horizontally inside or outside around here. Maybe I should sheetrock. I want it to look good but I have to be able to do this myself. I would like to be able to wash a car in there without worryin gabout getting walls wet.
I guess I could but the bullet and buy 1x4 purlins. I am assuming I dont need any of the ceiling and can nail them to my trusses 4 or so feet apart.
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wrote:

    Also poor sound control.

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Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.
Joe
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wrote:

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.
Joe
Sheetrock is about the cheapest and easiest way to go..Don't be scared of mudding it..A garage is a PERFECT place to learn...Why in the world would you want to wash cars in you garage with all the problems that entails such as MOLD ?? Unless you have built it like a car wash with severe slop to a center drain , in which case you should get those vinyl panels you see at the car wash for the ceiling and walls...VERY pricey...
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I had a drain put in. It would just be nice to be able to do. Not that I would do it all the time. I am waffeling between drywall and metal. I have to do it all myself and my walls are 10 feet tall and the building 30x30. White paint seems to show up bad mud job in a hurry!
I have to put metal in the ceiling. My trusses are 4 foot on center. I dont know of any other material that will work and look good.
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wrote:

I had a drain put in. It would just be nice to be able to do. Not that I would do it all the time. I am waffeling between drywall and metal. I have to do it all myself and my walls are 10 feet tall and the building 30x30. White paint seems to show up bad mud job in a hurry!
I have to put metal in the ceiling. My trusses are 4 foot on center. I dont know of any other material that will work and look good.
Just "having" a drain to carry away snow melting or water dripping off the car might not be much use for a car wash unless the slab is all pitched to the center..If not you could have standing water against a wall or elsewhere....The drain may not handle the volume of water if not designed for that or freezes in winter..I would wash it outside and quickly drive it inside to towel it off and the rest.....You could drywall the ceiling but you would need to strap the ceiling with 2X4's , 2 foot on center...You will probably have to do that even if you use metal...Atleast I would..By the time you get all your stuff in there you won't see much of the walls anyway...To do it in drywall the materials would cost about 600.00..(20 4X12 for the ceiling and 20 54 inch X 12 foot sheetrock for the walls , 5 pails of mud , 5 rolls tape 3 pounds of screws) ...Labor if you subbed it out would be about 800-1000 bucks depending on area.Half that if you rent a drywall lift and hang the rock yourself and just sub out the taping..Grand total of about 1500 bucks (1000 bucks if you hang it yourself) give or take..Ready in a week...HTH...I doubt you could buy metal for that...Perhaps somebody knows for sure???
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Metal for the ceiling was priced to me at 450 dolalrs including j trim. It is some that was rejected for some reason. They said it looked fine other than some of the edges had primer showing. If I went with number 2 metal it is 1.93 a running foot. (3 square feet).
When all this began I priced the drywall to a guy and he wanted 5,000 to do the whole thing.
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