Measurements for retrofit windows

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On 8/14/2011 5:29 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Wish I woulda checked that, when I bought the one new storm window after I blacksmithed all the storm windows when I moved in here, and came up short one glass panel. The cheap box-store replacement only has one movable pane.
I was feeling kinda poor after the closing costs when I bought this place, and reputtying the 1960 builder-grade singe-pane double hungs, and sorta-fixing the triple-track storms, was supposed to be a temporary work-around until I could save up for new windows. But that was five years ago, and it improved things so much, I never felt inclined to spend that big a chunk of cash that I would never get back at resale. I probably should replace the storms, and pull the interior casings and foam-fill the cavities, though.
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On 8/13/2011 8:30 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Agreed, and this is why all the DIY books tell people to have the guy doing the install do the measuring- that way boo-boos are on his head. I grew up in new construction, so I think in terms of RO. I'll note that 'new construction' windows may not be appropriate, since the nailer flange will run into the brick or siding. Unless jambs are rotted, sash kits or the slightly smaller retrofit windows that screw into old jamb, are usually much less of a PITA. Note well the hazards of the 'coil stock' outside trim overlay wrap, though- when (not if) the wrap leaks, it will put water in the wall and rot the hidden wood. You have to keep the caulking on the seams in perfect condition. I've seen many older houses where the siding and trim skin job on the outside caused thousands of dollars of water damage.
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wrote:

Which is why I'd NEVER install retrofits and cap the old windows. I've seen WAY too much go wrong that way. "New Construction" windows can generally be ordered without the nailer flange - at least they could be from all the suppliers both window companies I worked for dealt with (Fenergic, Euro-vinyl, Bonneville - among others)
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