I'm 59, so... I could actually retire now, or retire later and have a lot
more money to spend. ;-)
I'm an engineer and use both equally. I have a neat little applet on my
desktop to do the weird conversions, when necessary (ConvCalc).
When I was in college, slide rules were the rule. ;-) Powers of 10 mattered,
since I could do most calculations in my head, with just a few flicks of the
fingers. Since I switched to calculators 38 years ago, that skill has
atrophied to where I'm pretty much dependent on them; entering a few more
numbers doesn't slow me down. ...and I'm not old enough that remembering them
is a problem. ;-)
Is the OP CERTAIN, its a bad pump? or has the water table fallen? or a
myriad of other possibilties, like a cracked or rusted out main
best wishes on your project but plan in advance for gotchas.....
like the well collapsed on the pump
have the financing inorder for a entire new well
On Nov 9, 6:44 am, email@example.com wrote:
Call someone who knows what they are doing to help you and who
has the right equipment to actually grip the pipe while pulling it
You are going to have to cut the pipe every 10-15 feet depending on
how high you can lift the bucket on your tractor/loader and it is
going to break your balls to attempt doing this "project" yourself...
However, it is your well and your tractor/loader, if you want to screw
up both of them that is up to you but when you lose your grip on
the pipe as you try to redneck this job it will be really expensive
to have a well company come in and extract the broken piece
from the bottom of the well after you drop it down there than it
would have been for them to pull the pipe and pump and replace
it all for you...
I already called a well company. When I heard their estimate of $4000
(which will likely be $5000 or more), I'll do it myself. I'm not
worried about the tractor loader. It wont break, it just wont lift if
the weight it too much. I know I have to cut the pipe, that's what my
sawsall is for. I intend to rent a clamping device that prevents the
pipe from dropping in the well. That's the tool I have not yet found.
That well company's estimate is charging $1200 for a pump I can get
for around $600, and $900 for the wire, which I can get for $470 (if I
need it), and they said they will NOT reuse wire. On top of that, they
said that to get their truck in there, I will have to cut down several
trees. I dont have to cut any trees to get my tractor in there, other
then taking off a few small low branches. But that's because they
refuse to come in from the rear but driving thru some pasture and crop
field. They insist they have to come in from the driveway. My tractor
can come in from anywhere.
I'd be happy to pay someone to just come and pull the pipes. But not
when they're trying to rob me at gunpoint. Even a friend of mine who
is an electrician and has worked with that company, told me to avoid
them. The problem is that they are a monoply around here. There was
a really old man who used to do it, and was fair. In fact he's the
guy who installed the current pump 40 years ago. His son still has
all the equipment but dont want to do the work. I already asked him
about renting the machinery, but he said no. And why the hell would I
be stupid enough to spend $900 to replace the wire, when it's likely
still good. But that's just a sign of the times, waste waste waste...
(because companies like that dont want to get their hands dirty using
something that;s not brand new and wrapped in plastic).
The way I see it, these days you either DIY, or you get robbed. I
just put rear brakes on my pickup. Cost $94. That was new shoes,
drums turned, new spring kit, and both rear emergency brake cables
(which were stuck, and probably caused the excessive wear). I know a
guy who just had his rear shoes replaced by a dealer. Cost $672, and
they only changed the shoes, no springs or e-brake cables. Drums
might have been turned or maybe not. The only parts listed was the
shoes on his bill, and they were almost $100, the rest was labor.
On Nov 9, 8:40 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I agree this isn't rocket science and given that you have a
tractor to do the pulling, well within the capability of the DIY
job. And as you've figured out, you'll save a lot of money.
As long as you use some common sense, it should go fine.
Key thing as you;ve already figured out is to make sure you
don't lose the pipe down the well. I can think of several ways
to do that.
Some folks in this group are alarmists and for some reason
just think that many jobs like this require a professional,
probably because they don't have much experience in
fixing things themselves.
Again, I agree. You can save a huge amount doing routine
brake work yourself. But some would tell you you're gonna
die if you dare touch them.
One of the major brake/auto repair chains is running a radio
ad here in the NYC area. The ad says to come to them for
your brake work, tell them how much you want to spend, and
they will work within your budget to do the work. That one
strikes me as particularly odd. Like if a guy comes in and
says he only has $125 to spend on a job that should cost
$400, what are they gonna do on a job where safety is at
risk? I guess they won't compromise safety, but there are
other half-assed ways to save money too that will come back
to cost you more in the end.
On 11/9/2011 8:40 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Wow! I had mine replaced not long ago (about 600' down, new 1.5hp
goulds pump, old wire and pipe) for a grand total of $1324.66 including tax.
I missed the beginning of the thread, what size is your pump?
That sounds much more reasonable. I just got a second estimate for
$2800. Better than the first one, but still seems quite high. The
pump is a 1 HP, down approx 300ft. This new estimate is everything
new, pump, pipe, fittings, control box. They said they would try to
save some of the old pipe if possible, and can put plastic pipe below
the good steel pipe, but it's hard to know what is needed. They
insist the wire be replaced because the new code requires 4 wires now
(a ground wire is added).
On 11/9/2011 6:55 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I must admit my well guys work amazingly cheap so I'd add about $400 to
my price for a more realistic comparison. Most likely anyone who drills
wells will be higher priced, repairs are stuff they don't like to be
Even if I add $400, your price would be about $1000 less than what I'm
being quoted, and you have double the depth of mine and a 1.5hp pump
v/s my 1 hp. However, you reused your pipe and wire. My estimate is
for both of them new. I asked them if they could reuse the pipe, if
they would. They said they would, or maybe just the clean stuff above
the water line. As far as the wire, by code, they must install
grounded wire now, but said that if my wire was in real good shape,
they would reuse it, but if there is even one wear spot, they wont.
(I'm sure they'll find something wrong with it).
What surprises me, is that they need to install #10 wire. I'm almost
sure what I have is #12, and I know for sure that the wire feeding the
control box from the breaker is a #12. It's a 20A dual 220v breaker.
20A is #12 wire.
On 11/9/2011 5:44 AM, email@example.com wrote:
As others said, it'll add another 200 lb+/-
But, you're forgetting about what the breakout force will be; the
snubbers and that it's been sitting in place for however long means the
initial friction forces will likely be close to that of half the weight
or perhaps even more. I don't think you have any chance w/ your front
loader in a direct lift; not to mention the hassle of trying to deal
with such a rube goldberg setup.
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