Materials Cost Vs Labour Cost?

If I engage contractors or builder to rebuilding and enlarge a house, what will be the percentage for labor and building material?
The reason why I ask the question, is how much can I save if I do some of the manageable work myself, like installing windows, doors, gutters, sidings, internal drywalls, piping and etc.
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There is absolutely no way to answer your question. Work with a good builder. Ask him for a turnkey price. Ask him for a price that will just get you "in the dry". The problem here is a need to be very specific about what is and is not included in the "dry" pricing. It might be easier to have him perform all work other than interior finishes. Most builders use sub contractors for the different trades so it is fairly easy to exclude that sub's bid. The problem comes if the next trade(s) is/are waiting for the completion of one of the ones you are performing. Your quality and speed, or lack thereof, can disrupt the entire process. If a trade knows that they are not completing the project, there is a chance for increased shortcuts.
Most municipalities only write permits for 6 months. If you do not complete in that time frame, you get to start that process over.
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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Thank you for replying. I will engage an architect to prepare dwg, plans and submit it to the City for approval. We will add two-rooms (12"X15") to an existing two bedroom ranch house in a one acre lot. A contractor will subcontract excavation of the sites for the concrete slab for the extension. He will subcontractor various jobs which he or I unable to do. I will do all the manageable jobs as listed below
Basically, I am trying to estimating how much money do I need for the two-rooms extension, if I do 35% to 45% of the work. I will also save, if buy the materials on the contractor's account.

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There is no way to give an accurate answer but I will share the following.
On a recent renovation about 1/3 of the total cost was for materials exclusive of the plumbing electrical and HVAC materials. Those were included in the total bid but were not itemized.Those subs bid the job labor and materials with only a total for their part. My best guess is 45-50% of my total project was materials. The itemized materials included lumber, doors, windows, drywall and roofing.
Of the things you listed the drywall and exterior siding are the more labor intensive. Unless you have done it before and are quick and good at it let a pro do the drywall. You may or may not be legally allowed in your area to do your own plumbing. Here you can if you live in the home, provide drawings and have it inspected.
Colbyt
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Tough to answer. As an example, windows and drywall are very different. A $500 window may cost $50 to install, but $500 worth of drywall may cost $1500 to install. Change that window from $500 to a cheapo at $100 or a fancy one at $2000 and the cost of installing it may remain the same.
What you want to do is talk to the contractor and tell him what you are interested in doing. He can give a price on the complete structure, he can give you a cost broken down for framing, electrical, etc. Some will be very happy to work with you on that basis.
One hint; Get someone to do the drywall. The pro can do the job quickly and much easier that you can handle the big sheets. Money well spent.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/



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Our local windows and doors store explained to me in detail, a 24X36 double hung window (vinyl and aluminum depending on features) will cost $128 to $200 each. A door in home centers cost $170 to $300. Do I have the skill to install windows and doors? I have been watching too much Hometime, DIY, This Old House and etc. The last few months I was busy repairing and replacing rotting windows, doors and woods around the house, including gutters and recapped the chimney. I know how the windows and doors were installed. The weight of the windows can be further reduced by removing the glass sections during installation. The siding will be Nova Brik and I believe I will save a bundle here in labor cost.

My contractor is willing to go along with my plan. An architect will prepare drawings and plan for the permits to proceed.

I still believe it's not difficult to install drywall. If it's too heavy, I will gladly let the contractors do it.
Thanks the advice and suggestion.
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Careful, there is a reason they are left in during installation.

No it is not difficult. Lifting a 12' sheet for the ceiling is the difficult part.
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wrote:
Thanks, Colbyt :-)

It's not the total cost I am looking for and I understand what you mean. My best "guess-a-matic" saving of 35% to 50% on labor on the things I could do.

All jobs involving heavy and height like excavation, slab concrete, structure frame, roofing, ceilings will be done by contractors and that including electrical and the sewer (one attached bathroom). I have installed and replaced copper pipes but not sewer pipes.
I will take DanG advice "Ask him for a turnkey price. Ask him for a price that will just get you "in the dry". The problem here is a need to be very specific about what is and is not included in the "dry" pricing."

I will be useing "Nova Brik" for external siding, Nova Brik will help me should I get into trouble. I really don't expect any problem, and the job is neither heavy nor difficult. I might skip drywall to a contractor. I will get an architect for dwgs and all City's Code compliance.
I meet my contractor today, show him the house I intend to buy. He is in agreement to my plan. If I do proceed in a few months time, I will try to post pics of before and after the jobs.
I do appreciate all advice and suggestions.
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Make sure you and your subcontractors clearly understand who is doing what work.
I recently hired a contractor by the hour to work with me to remodel my kitchen.
As it evolved it turned out he and I had very different ideas about who was doing what work and basically he got upset when he saw I was doing any work at all. I was taking money out of his pocket as he put it.
Just make sure you have a clear understanding with the people you hire as to the extent of the work they will be doing.
ml
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Jim B ( snipped-for-privacy@abcdnet.net) said...

There are a lot of factors that can effect this, as others have posted, but a good rule-of-thumb is that you will spend $2 on labour for every $1 in materials.
We build our own house, finishing about a year and a half ago, and we did about 85% of the work ourselves.
In some areas, the materials/labour ratio was close to the rule of thumb, in others it was hard to tell since the contract price was for the total deliverables.
Shingling the roof was easy as we purchased the materials ourselves (about $1600) and hired the labour separately (about $2200), so the ratio was about 42% materials, 58% labour.
A few areas where we considered having the work done, but ended up doing it ourselves, the chance to compare is a bit easier:
Windows: total cost from supplier: $5300 two quotes for supply & install: $11,000 and $14,000 (about 37% to 48% materials)
Ceiling texture spraying: total cost of supplies and equipment rental: $185 estimate for job: $750 (about 25% materials/equipment)
Framing: cost of materials (excluding roof trusses): about $16,000 quote for labour (excluding roof): about $20,000 (about 45% materials)
I find the 1/3 materials figure a good rule-of-thumb for estimating as actual figures tend to lean towards a slightly higher percentage for materials, meaning that total costs tend to be estimated higher than the come in at (e.g.: if materials are estimated at $1000, then labour is estimated at $2000, for a total of $3000 -- but if the $1000 of materials ends up representing 40% of the total, then the total is $2500)
--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence."
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Depends what part of country and how much of the housing bubble you are in. Concrete and forming runs 4 to 1 materials to labor, but concrete is very expensive this way at $125 per meter. Last time i built a house on spec (as an investment) 2:1 seemed the rule. It also depends how connected you are in the trades and how you are paying those working for you. Roofers, electricians and siders are famous for wanting cash under the table because they are collecting compo elsewhere.
-- Troweller^nospam^@canada.com
Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.
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