Marvel Lubricating Oil

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A decal on my furnace blower seemed to say the motor was permanently lubricated. The other day I got my head a little lower and saw a second decal saying it should be lubricated every couple of years with 20W nondetergent oil.
I think 3-in-1 is like that, but I can't find my can. I did find a 4-ounce container of Marvel Lubricating Oil. Among the uses listed on the label is "small electric motors."
Small is relative. Would Marvel Lubricating Oil be good for a furnace blower?
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wrote:

NO
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I'd say it's a bit thin. My walmart has 30wt nondetergent. I'd probably lean that way if I couldn't find 20wt. Nondetergent also gets used in things like pressure washers.
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jamesgangnc wrote:

Non-synthetic compressor oils will be low-foaming non-detergent and generally can find both 20W and 30W.
I'd go lighter rather than heavier on viscosity; just lube a little more frequently.
The Marvel stuff I'd presume unless it says specifically it isn't will be detergent-laden. The web site is useless for any actual information; the Turtle Wax site doesn't do anything except link to the old Marvel site. The slogan's right -- it's a mystery.
--
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jamesgangnc wrote:

Thanks, it looks as if you and Salty Dog are right.
One way to measure viscosity of motor oil is cSt at 40C. CSt is a measure of the number of seconds it takes a certain amount to drain through a certain tube.
At 40C, the cSt of 10W should be 25-35 20W 40-80 30 80-120
I have a fresh can of 10W-30, a remnant of 30W nondetergent in a can I bought last year, and a little 20W-50 in a can several years old. I started with the 10W-30 because it's the freshest.
seconds at 25C 10W30 22 20W50 40 30W 47
If the 10W30 has a cSt about 30, the 20W-50 has a cSt of 55. So far, so good. The 30W ND seems to have a cSt of 64, like 20W oil. So maybe that brand of 30W could pass for 20W.
The Marvel Lubricating Oil? Three seconds!
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wrote:

Good show, very inneresting.
But simply shaking MMoil, or feeling it, tells you its too thin. My jugs of it tout it as an additive. So you may be able to "cut" some of the oil you have, and use it in your motor, if the oil you have feels too thick. Or perform you cSt test on various mixtures..
--
EA



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Existential Angst wrote:

I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil. The Lubricating Oil doesn't feel the same, as I recall.
I found a data sheet from Flinn Scientific: 30% mineral spirits, 67% naphthenic base oil distillates.
The mineral spirits could wash away the lubricant. The naphthenic base oil distillates have low viscosity. Their lubricating performance and oxidation stability make them undesirable as lubricating oils.
I don't know how far I'd have to go to get 20W ND. At room temperature, the 30W I have drains from a pipette about like 20W. If it's a little more viscous than the motor manufacturer intended, I wonder what harm it would do.
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On Wed, 9 Jun 2010 20:50:40 -0400, "Existential Angst"

REALLY bad advice.
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Why? Inneresting, how you think so much of yourself, your own advice, that you feel no obligation whatsoever to elaborate on your little edicts. The hallmark of a spoiled brat, still being supported by mommy.
Howzat Geothermal doin??
--
EA
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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:25:03 -0400, "Existential Angst"

You mean other than the fact that ANY advice from you is usually REALLY bad advice?
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Yup. And while you're at it, support THAT claim, as well. Of couse, you can't say why mixing oils is bad, and you won't be able to support your insult. Keep flailing.
--
EA
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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:35:55 -0400, "Existential Angst"

Marvel Mystery Oil is about SAE 3W, which is quite a bit thinner than the SAE 20w called for in this application.
It is also quite flammable at relatively low temps. Probably not too smart to use on a heavy duty motor, especially one attached to a furnace. Of course, "not too smart" is a specialty of yours, so maybe you should try it.
It's about 20% solvents. I'll bet that really leads to long bearing life!
Once again, for anybody reading this... Existential Angst is either a complete moron, or he deliberately posts incorrect and sometime dangerous advice. Either way, you really don't want to do anything he suggests without first asking someone with a little knowledge and a lot less hostility.
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Still don't understand "mix", eh?

See my other post. You are dead wrong.
Probably not too

Heh, the mix thing again...

Well, I have enough knowledge to put some MM oil in a blue flame and observe that it does not burn. And I know the diff between flash point and ignition point.
Funny how you speak with so much authority, and are wrong in almost all of your assertions. Once in a while you luck out, but clearly it is luck.
--
EA
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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:58:33 -0400, "Existential Angst"

Here, take a look at the rather prominent warning on the front of the can:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/toomuchcaffiene/2435371702 /
DANGER - COMBUSTIBLE
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STILL not understanding "mix"??? STill not understanding, "I put MM oil in a blue stove flame and it didn't burn"???? Still don't understand the CYA nature of labeling? goddamm vegetable oil is combustible....
AND, according to the MSDS, if you mix combustibles with non-combustibles (like motor oil) with certain proportions, the mixture is no longer combustible -- ESP if chemical interactions have occured.
Also, you said "flammable", which is distinctly different than "combustible".
Well, at least you made it clear how you go about gathering information -- from goddamm pictures of old cans on Flickr.... That sounds about right for you.
--
EA



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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:58:33 -0400, "Existential Angst"

You may as well thin the oil with gasoline. You'll have similar results.

How inconvenient for you:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point
Once again - the flash point (now that you know what it means) for Marvel Mystery Oil is 128 degrees F.
The product is labled "DANGER - COMBUSTIBLE" in LARGE TYPE on the front of the can, and the MSDS also confirms that it is considered flammable.
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You are a chemist, now? Gasoline is short/medium-chain hydrocarbons. MM oil is...... ??

And???
How do you know it is 128 F??

Except you were saying it would burn up in an electric motor. I put it in a blue flame, and it did not burn. Are you still not understanding this?
Combustibility has to do with a flammable vapor, not the liquid itself. The whole concept is essentially irrelevant in the context of a bronze bearing in an electric motor, yet you keep harping on it.
If the context were 55 gal open drums in a warehouse where welding was going on, then yeah, there is a cause for concern, but this is a totally different context. Absolutely no appreciable vapor of MM oil, by itself and certainly if mixed with 30 or 40 wt oil, could *possibly* accumulate in an electric motor, esp. with air currents inherent around 99.999% of motors, ESP a blower. From what, mebbe 1 cc of MM oil???
Which makes you are a straw-clutching idiot. Just like in those horsepower threads, which you are apparently still smarting from.
and the MSDS also confirms that it is considered

Wrong again.
For a material to be classed as flammable, the flash point needs to be below 100 F. Which is proly why the MM oil label did not say "flammable".
Show us how the MSDS considers MM oil to be flammable.
How long are you going to persist in this? You do have tenacity, I must say. Which is often associated with stupidity.
--
EA



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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 14:45:30 -0400, "Existential Angst"

read it and weep:
http://www.turtlewax.com/res/msds/MM010-4.pdf
FLAMMABLE!
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Read http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ref/flammable.html http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ref/combustible.html
The fact that MSDS classified MM oil as flammable just goes to show that good help is hard to find, as they violated their own definition of "flammable". An example of one moron bolstering another moron. Heh, mebbe YOU could get a job with the MSDS......
Which is all moot anyway, since MM doesn't burn in a blue flame, a fact which you have yet to acknowledge -- as well as the mixture thing, as well as your ATF claim, and almost everything else you've tried to come up with.
The ONLY thing you were right about was your first guess, that MM by itself is proly not suitable for bearings, and that was a lucky guess, given your prediliction for error after error, and an inability to gauge context.
Clutching at meaningless details, btw, is another hallmark of stupidity.
Remember your initial assertion: That MM was bad, because it was dangerous near a motor. Clearly that assertion is false.
--
EA







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On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 15:15:05 -0400, "Existential Angst"

I think onlookers will have figured out by now who gave good advice and who did not.
See ya!
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