Maple floor sand, poly and "CHIP"

I had hired a company called Custom Floors to do my kitchen floor which is maple that has been covered for 50 years or more by at the least four layers of various flooring materials, UNBELIEVABLE. Anyway these guys were in and out in 2 days. The job looked good but we had several problems like finding long hairs and trapped dust in the Polyurethane, so they came back several times to buff and recoat. Months later I was doing some work on the walls and taped off a doorway but dropped a piece of duct tape on the floor, which came up with a huge chunk of poly. Then I started to notice that were ever the floor boards would give when walked on the poly was pealing and cracking. I seems that the poly did not stick to the wood. Did they not cleanup properly prior to the poly? or Did they not use the right poly? I asked for oil based. WHAT THE HELL DID THEY DO????????
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You don't go into detail on exactly what the flooring company did but it sounds like the floor was not properly prepared for the polyurethane. It could be that one of the previous finishes was not completely removed. Perhaps there was still some dirt, grease, or floor wax/polish left behind. Polyurethane sticks by a mechanical hold. Many things can interfere with that including too fine a sanding. I am led to believe that a slow drying oil based finish was used given that you found hairs and dust trapped in the finish. The slower the curing to tack free, the more likely hair and dust will get trapped. Water based finishes dry very quickly so the problem is minimized.
Good Luck.

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They didnt screen completly on their recoat of their screw ups. If it continues its Judge Judy time
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What does screen completly mean? Tony D.

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To screen -sand completely, the circular machine they use to sand in between coats uses what is a sanding screen. They were careless and rushed in my opinion and either missed a few spots or did not actualy rough up the surface completely. The longer poly cures the more completely it must be sanded. Rapid recoat 24 hr + or - can require minimal sanding - screening , desired for Build up. He should test more Remote areas with tape, if problems continue only complete removal and redo will cure it. Making court the only real outcome. I redid 120, 100 year old chairs for a college, The Pratt and Lambert rep told me , Rapid Recoat dont sand, to save time, Well P & L paid thousands to redo 80 % of the chairs. Complete sanding is necessary on cured finishes. Obviously the floor guy was rushed on a loosing redo, a Hack
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well you must first resand to bare wood and flood fill then fine sand then srceen to burnish Maple with at least 120 or #3o) then put poly then poly then poly 4 coats thinly applied is best laquer sanding sealer or any sealer is not a good idea. glitsa bacca is by far the best (they call that sealer) but its ureaformaldyhyde ken http://allhardwoodfloor.com a)there is also flecto renewal which is highly underrated it will stick to the most contaminated surfaces B) a screen and recoat is not a resand.
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Look LarDken Here you go again scaring people into a complete redo . Well I guess thats what you do in real life, scare customers.. If their problem is isolated why publish BS to unessarily scare the homeowner to a complete redo. You havnt seen the job, no one has . It could be one area. And Lardken my name isnt Tony...But I know your just not that smart, are you, mr troll.
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Hardken lost his screw again........... never had one
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Dont listen to tony ranlsey if you screen with to sharp a screen you will ahve scatch marks tony is not a hardwood floorlayer he is a looky lou and a newsgroup troll he has never specialized in anything and currently suffering from midlife crisis and erectile difficuly
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ts called laquer sanding sealer and if you dont put the poly over it before it dryies it wont stick now thats Quality ken http://allhardwoodfloor.com
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