Make a Green Pool Clear in 1 Day!

This is a simple method to getting rid of algae in a pool step by step:
1. BUY "FLOC" "Floc" or Flocculant is a chemical that is sold in every pool store. Just pick up a bottle or granular and follow theses instructions.
2. Turn your pool filter on 3. Add The FLOC to your pool. As much as need, I say the more the better. 4 Run pool filter for about 2 hours 5. then shut off your pool filter 6. Wait about 8 to 12 hours and then check your pool. At this time your pool should be clear except all the alage will be at the bottom of your pool. 7. Hook up your manual pool vacuum and before you start vacuuming turn your sand pool filter to "Waste" or your DE or Cartridge filter to drain. If you do not have these opitions then remove your drain plug from your filter and vacuum
Note: water will be thrown from the filter so it might be wise to hook up your backwash hose.
8. Vacuum up all the green alage until the pool becomes so cloudy that you can no longer see. 9. Then shut your filter off and start the fill up your pool (cause you loss so much water from vacuuming) 10. wait until the alage settles to the bottom again and continue to vac until all the algae is gone.
for more info on this contact me at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com My website for pool care will be up soon @ http://www.swimuniversity.com
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On 16 Mar 2006 15:52:52 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

IF you adjust the PH of the water WAY UP then add the floc....
I Like to use Grandular Floc over Liquid Floc but it is getting harder and harder to find Grandular anymore...
Bob G.
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It's true that finding grandular floc is getting harder, though also in my experience in the pool industry having a good level of pH is a must now matter what's going on.
When you have low pH chlorine shock will not work as hard because the acid in the water eats up the chlorine fast which doesnt let the chlorine work long enough to do its job.
Also having low pH can also damage any metal that your pool might have such as, heaters, ladder poles and parts in your automatic pool cleaner. Even your liner is at risk overtime in low pH conditions. So make sure you always check your pH level, it is very super important.
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remtom46 writes:

Quite the opposite. It is all about ORP. You get no ORP with high pH.
What kind of "chemistry" is "eats up"?
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Not to fight with Mr.Kinch, but I am trying to help people clear thier pool. I am giving advice in words that people can understand, without asking questions. Mr. Kinch is trying to show off his knowledge of chemistry. I am by no means a chemist nor do I claim to be one. But when I am giving advice, I don't apperciate being made a fool of.
It's Obvious that Mr.Kinch is very smart and wise and all knowing. So spend your money raising the pH to add floc. Since he's only trying to help. I know for a Fact Mr.Kinch that you do not need to raise the pH in your pool "WAY UP" (what kind of chemistry is that?) to have floc work effectivley. So instead of fighting me by giving false information, pick up a book and study before you make false statements and make yourself look like a fool.
To Everyone Reading This: I am sorry to have to put Mr.Kinch in his place but I am only trying to help the consumer in time and money which I think is very important to a pool owner. There is no need to be a backyard chemist just having a clean pool is important. If you follow my instructions I assure you that your pool will be clear and this is only my advice. You may choose weather or not to use it. And keep in my that every pool in every part of the country is different. So just because Mr.Kinch is an expert on his pool doesnt mean he knows everything about your pool. Now I am not claiming I know everything about your pool either but I have been working with customer pool for over 10 years and Have seen my fair share of problems and have been able to acess and cure every last one of them.
Again I apologize but Mr.Kinch is a silly bitch.
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remtom46 writes:

I never said your method of flocculation didn't work.
My point is simply that you can do it quicker, cheaper, and with less effort with low-pH superchlorination.
The pool stores are full of chemicals to fix problems, many of which can be fixed by a few hours of high ORP via plain old chlorine and pool acid.
Go to any pool supply and you will see various costly packages lined up like patent medicines, one claiming to cure green algae, another yellow algae, another brown algae, etc. You don't need any of that, but some people like to buy a product that way. Like the drug stores selling the same medicine in different packages labeled for different ailments.
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Hey Kinch bug, you child abuser! This guy corrected your erroneous information and he's not using his real name either. Why don't you call him some names?
Once again, you are saying "up" when the rest of the world is saying "down". You really can't help yourself. Its a severe personality flaw. I'll bet your parents had it as well.
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Mr. Kinch,
I apologize for calling you names and I understand your point about Superchlorination and High pH. But said that this method is cheaper, and I have to disagree, but not to be mean.
If you use Shock to clear your pool then here's how it works
One bag of shock is good for 10,000 gallons of water so if you have a pool that holds 20,000 gallons of water then you would need 2 bags for a regualr shock treatment Cost of 2 bags of shock: $8
Using 2 bags of shock will not make a 20,000 gallon pool clear from green water. If it is a light green tint then you will have to double the doseage to 4 bags of shock Cost of 4 bags of shock: $16
Of course if your pool is really really green then it is wise to triple the dosage to 6 bags of shock for an effective algae treatment Cost of 6 bags of shock $24
If that works and only if that works now your pool will be a cloudy blue and you can either run your filter 24/7 to clear it up or add some clarifier to help speed up the process (note clarifier is not a cure all) Cost of Clarifier: $15
And finally the cost for a bottle of FLOC $16
Cheaper Yes Lot of work: yes Does it work? Yes
Both Methods work effectively of course floc is cheaper, but it take a lot more elbow grease Shock I feel is the easy way to get rid of alage but it takes the longest to finally get it clear
With Floc, not only does it aid it getting rid of the algae out of your pool but it will also be clear when your done which is what shock does not do.
Extra Tips: Most aboveground pools do not have a bottom drain And the only way to turn a pool from cloudy to clear is by filtering the water A bottom drain helps to pull the cloudy water off the bottom of the pool instead of a skimmer just pulling it from the top. So hook up your manual vacuum and leave it turned upside down at the bottom of your pool and wow you've just created bottom drain suction which will help to pull the cloudy water from the bottom and clear your pool faster.
Alkalinity is not baking soda! Infact they are in the same family but you wouldn't use Alkalinity to bake a cake. But if you use baking soda in your pool it will have the same affect as adding alkalinity to your pool and it saves you money.
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Please do not feed the troll.
Thank you!
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remtom46 writes:

Retail price for sodium hypochlorite to reach 10 ppm free chlorine in 20,000 gallons is less than $3 here. This represents over a pound of elemental chlorine that will oxidize and gas out a huge amount of contaminants, including algae.

The pool will be blue within hours, and clarified in a day or so.
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wrote:

remtom46........ Your broad statements on how to clear a pool with "miracle" floc are ridiculous. No, you dont have to be a chemist but you DO have to understand the chemistry of your water. Ive found the biggest factor in an inground vinyl liner pool is having the Alkalinity right. You can toss in all the bags of shock you want and all the ph up and ph down you want. None of it will do shit if you dont have the alkalinity right. Here is another little tid bit of info for your 10 years of pool experience. After tossing in bags and bags of shock every week to superchlorinate and disinfect your pool as everyone should, you will gradually notice the rise in stabalizer in your pool. Now you experience even more fun with trying to clear your pool. All the floc in the world wont clear it. Now you gotta drain 1/2 the pool because dilution is the only "chemical" that will lower your stabilizer level. "Chemistry........isnt it fun?" Bubba
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Shock is unstablized chlorine which means it does not have stablizer and WILL NOT raise the stablizer in your pool It will however increase your calcium because most shock has an active ingredient of Calcium Hypochlorite
And you are right about draining your pool to get rid of stabilzer and you also have to drain a pool if you have high amounts of Calcium Though one bag of shock only adds about 1ppm (Part Per Million) of Calcium to your water and you should have a level of about 175ppm to 225ppm in a vinyl liner pool
and Again your right that Alkalinty is important but do you know what alkalinity is and what it does.
What its does in buffers the pH in your pool If you had no alkalinity in your pool your pH would go up and down like crazy Alkalinty help to stablize the pH That is it's only Job
I have a degree in chemistry and I'm trying to help. Take my advice and use it at will I have also been in the pool industry long enough to know everything there is about pools. If you have a question, then post it. Please don't question my knowledge I know a lot of information that can benefit a pool.
If you would like to add to my statements then so be it. Don't post replies like Bubba (who only knows enough to question me).
Bubba: "You can toss in all the bags of shock you want and all the ph up and ph down you want. None of it will do shit if you dont have the alkalinity right." ME: "When you have low pH chlorine shock will not work as hard because the acid in the water eats up the chlorine fast which doesnt let the chlorine work long enough to do its job."
I say the same thing only with an explantion on why this happens. Alkalinity is important, and since alkalinity has one job and that is to buffer pH, the end all is pH is the most important
oh and FLOC does work, try it and you'll understand Some people don't like it cause it's too much work So if you don't want to spend money or work on your pool Drain it, and fill it in or sell it Cause you'll always have problems
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Wow, where did you get that degree from so fast? Only 2 days ago, you said "I am by no means a chemist nor do I claim to be one", and now all of a sudden you have a degree in chemistry! Was it expensive? Did you have to study a lot? Did it come with a frame? Do tell!
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PLEASE make yourself clear if you are going to act like such an expert. Liquid shock is unstabilized chlorine and will NOT raise your stabilizer level Powered shock and most 3" chlorine tablets ARE stabilized and WILL raise your stabilizer level. There IS A BIG difference in the two. And I still think your 1 day floc story is a big bunch or crap. Ive used it. Its not magic and it doesnt work that well in many cases. Bubba
wrote:

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remtom46 writes:

That's often the case, but at least here in Florida, *all* the dry chlorinators are cyanurated (falsely called "stabilized" by marketing phonies) at stores like Home Depot, Walmart, Lowes, etc. They don't sell *anything* with cal hypo in it any more. This seems to have had something to do with Olin getting out of the cal hypo manufacturing business some years ago.
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