Does anyone have any feedback on the Magnum DX product from Home
Depot? I am going to be painting the interior of a 1700 sq ft home and
am thinking that it will save me quite a bit of time.
ALso, would you recommend going up to the Magnum XR5 instead of the
THanks, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
One suggestion I can give you is to make certain that you strain your
paint first as well as using a good pump protectant/cleaner. The
design of these residential Graco units is a ball-cocked piston driven
pump. When problems arrise with these units, 99% of the time, the ball
has corroded in the cavity because of poor maintanace (i.e. leaving
water-based products to corrode the pump housing, etc.). If you don't
want to use a pump protector (Graco's 'Pump Armor' is a good one as is
the crystaline stuff called 'Hero'), you can always finish your
cleaning by leaving a little mineral spirits/thinners in the pump to
When asking if the Xr5, 7, or 9 would be appropriate for your job, as
long as you don't use the 5 series for prolonged time periods and on a
daily basis, it will be fine. If you are looking for a contract grade
Graco unit, these machines don't cut it whatsoever. I would look
towards the ES line (190 as a minimum).
Keep the machine spotless... strain the paint ... protect the pump...
don't use an under-rated extension cord... replace the tips frequently
if using flats or ceiling paints. The XR5 should be fine for your job
if it's a one-time project... look to heavier grade machines if
Thanks so much...
Question... I am a total novice with paint sprayers. Do you recommend
any websites for getting up to date on how to strain the paint?
The way I read your steps are...
1) Strain the paint
2) Utilize the paint sprayer (I am being obvious, here)
3) pump out any excess paint
4) Maintain the sprayer by leaving either pump protector solution,
"pump armor", or thinner in the pump when not in use.
Is this correct?
Thanks in advance
Straining the paint can be done by using commercial strainers available at
the home center. Not really an big issue with latex. Now if your spraying
your car, different story. If it is warm, cover the bucket with a wet towel.
That will keep the skin from forming. Also occasionally put the sprayer in
the bucket under the level of paint and mix up the paint. I use a 24"
extension, so I do not have to put the gun under. Tips clog, when that
happens just turn the nozzle 180 degrees and spray into the bucket. Reverse
and see if it is clear, Repeat as necessary.
I use a couple of fivers that have clear fresh water in them. I tie the
trigger on and run all the water through the unit varying the pressure and
finishing up on high. The I remove the paint suction hose, and spray wd40
into the pump, while jogging the motor on and off. When starting up again I
reverse the process, 2 fivers of clear clean water and then start with the
paint. You can spend your money on the pump protector solution. WD 40 works
Find a out of the way place to practice first. Does not take much time to
get the hang of it. Mask everything including yourself. Long sleeves, a hat
or hood, glasses are good inside, and OLD clothes, your going to get paint
every where. Light coats until you get the hang of it. Carry a 1" brush for
That's the basic idea - yes. As another poster has mentioned, you
don't have to use expensive materials to maintain the integrity of the
pump assy. Be aware, however, that if your pump design is a diaphragm
design with rubber o rings, using a solvent like WD-40 may cause the
rubber to swell and cause a premature leak at the diaphragm (causing
pressure drops, inconsistent spray patterns and possibly a dead
My suggestion is always to follow the manuf. directions (even if they
don't seem correct at the time). At least this way, they will support
you on a warranty call when you can tell them you spoke with 'x' on
this date and such and such an office... That being said, the folks at
Graco are very knowledgable and can be reached via the web at:
I think their site is under construction right now but take a look
there for a number you can call. One last thing mentioned by a
previous poster was that you need not worry about straining paint
unless you are doing work on cars? I disagree. You will wear down a
tip faster and get more 'blobs' in your finish if you don't dtrain your
paint. This being said, many manufacturers have high quality paints
that don't need straining but as a good practice you should filter them
all (will also cause less wear on the filter in your guns). This isn't
as important with the higher quality gloss paints but I would pay
special attention when using PVA primers, flats, etc (the particles in
the paint are larger and may be more inconsistent). If you don't want
to break the bank on filters, etc., no problem... use old pantyhose...
If you are spraying when it's very warm or you are outdoors or you want
a longer dry time, I suggest treating the paint with either Flotrol or
Penetrol (Flotrol is for latex and the other is for oil/alkyds). It is
a good idea to buy high quality paints when spraying - it saves a
hassle when cleaning up and creates a more consistent spray. I suggest
100% acrylic latex paints (ones produced with ti02 rather than chalks
and limes/clays are best) and alkyds (unless you are spraying laquers,
Take care and good luck...
Oh yeah... don't spray your hand to test the pattern... if you do,
drive yourself to the hostpital...
Here's a halfway decent write up that serves as a basic intro to
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