What (if any) lubricant can I use on a screw/nut to keep it from
binding over time? I may not need to loosen the nut for a decade or
The nut is part of the burner assembly on our range so it is
exposed to some heat (but not direct flame). It also gets some
moisture exposure due to the inherent moisture content in Natural gas.
Anti-Seize, available at any good hardware or industrial supply store.
There are a few different varieties. You can also get it at
Most are good to 2000 degrees, but there is a high heat that can go to 2900
Hugh? The whole idea to use a nut and bolt is to hold good and tight
with some adequate friction to produce a binding. A lubricant
doesn't make sense in this application. Depending on what you have,
sometimes a lock washer is a good idea.
I don't know Hugh, but actually on the threads it does make some sense
to keep out moisture and minimize corrosion w/ time. The friction is on
the nut surface. I'd suggest actually the nonlocking high-temp Loctite
for the particular application.
Hmmm. Interesting, never thought of it.
But presumably there's also a LOT of friction between the THREADS
and the grooves (what's the technical name for them?) -- not that
I know anything, but just from the feel of tightening a nut, that
that's what the tightening is doing, squeezing the threads (male, or
is my groove-vs-thread vocab totally wrong?) TIGHTLY TIGHTLY
**TIGHTLY** against the sides of the grooves (female?), SO tightly
as to result in LOTS of friction (ie, LOTS of force NEEDED to
OVERCOME that friction)?
Can someone restate this (if basically correct) more intelligently
and with the proper technical vocabulary?
Friction and tight is ok -- I just don't want it to be so *tight* that
it binds/rusts in place and becomes unremoveable. Also, since there is
no vibration or force on the nuts, I don't need it to be locked so
tight that the nut is near-impossible to remove.
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Hence, the recommendation for anti-seize .. .. NO SEIZE = NO GALLING easy to take apart. I worked in the food industry most of my life, and
EVERYTHING was stainless .. we went through NEVER-SEIZE like water. If
we tried to take something apart and it was galled up,, we'd look up the
previous work order and find out who last worked on that item .. .. they
were in for a serious prayer meeting. We even had a special
"food-grade" type that was ok for casual, direct contact with our product.
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<pre wrap="">I'd get stainless hardware, use anti-seize and not worry
<pre wrap="">Stainless has a habit of gaulding and making it even worse than
i echo that espically if the stanless meets another non stainless
Hence, the recommendation for anti-seize .. .. NO SEIZE = NO GALLING easy to take apart. I worked in the food industry most of my life,
and EVERYTHING was stainless .. we went through NEVER-SEIZE like
water. If we tried to take something apart and it was galled up,,
we'd look up the previous work order and find out who last worked on
that item .. .. they were in for a serious prayer meeting. We even
had a special "food-grade" type that was ok for casual, direct contact
with our product.<br>
I'd guess it's some type of corrosion. Just the other day I had to pull
the cap off my well and the stainless bolts I put in the rusty
steel/cast lid didn't want to come out easy. I ended up taking the cap
in the garage and using oil and working them back and forth removed the
stainless bolts. I then used some lubriplate on them and replaced the cap.
The answer is TefGel. VERY expensive stuff, but it is exactly right
for this application, and a tiny bit goes a very long way. I use it
for things such as mounting stainless hardware with stainless screws
into aluminum spars on my boat, in a salt water environment.
Ordinarily, that would be a recipe for horrendous corrosion. TefGel
solves the issue.
Before the following discussion on stainless-steel -- please, someone,
say a bit more about this periodic loosening and retightening,
pros and cons of it, what situations for doing and not doing it.
(To avoid (actually, evade) that discussion (stainless), suppose:
it's possible that you don't HAVE any of those, and/or they're
too EXPENSIVE to replace all the ones you already have with them.)
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