What (if any) lubricant can I use on a screw/nut to keep it from binding over time? I may not need to loosen the nut for a decade or more.
The nut is part of the burner assembly on our range so it is exposed to some heat (but not direct flame). It also gets some moisture exposure due to the inherent moisture content in Natural gas.
Anti-Seize, available at any good hardware or industrial supply store. There are a few different varieties. You can also get it at
Most are good to 2000 degrees, but there is a high heat that can go to 2900 degrees.
Use antiseize from any NAPA or other auto parts store.
Joe
Hugh? The whole idea to use a nut and bolt is to hold good and tight with some adequate friction to produce a binding. A lubricant doesn't make sense in this application. Depending on what you have, sometimes a lock washer is a good idea.
I'd get stainless hardware, use anti-seize and not worry about it.
nate
add routine maintence item, move nut loosen and tighten a little yearly.......
although your range may fail from other problems before this nut becomes a showstopper
I don't know Hugh, but actually on the threads it does make some sense to keep out moisture and minimize corrosion w/ time. The friction is on the nut surface. I'd suggest actually the nonlocking high-temp Loctite for the particular application.
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Stainless has a habit of gaulding and making it even worse than rust.
On Jul 12, 7:25=EF=BF=BDpm, "Ralph Mowery" wro= te:
de quoted text -
i echo that espically if the stanless meets another non stainless metals
Not much works in those conditions. Maybe something made for furnaces and fireplace doors. I used to have some high temp stuff from Kroil company.
Hence, the recommendation for anti-seize .. .. NO SEIZE = NO GALLING = easy to take apart. I worked in the food industry most of my life, and EVERYTHING was stainless .. we went through NEVER-SEIZE like water. If we tried to take something apart and it was galled up,, we'd look up the previous work order and find out who last worked on that item .. .. they were in for a serious prayer meeting. We even had a special "food-grade" type that was ok for casual, direct contact with our product.
Friction and tight is ok -- I just don't want it to be so *tight* that it binds/rusts in place and becomes unremoveable. Also, since there is no vibration or force on the nuts, I don't need it to be locked so tight that the nut is near-impossible to remove.
Well it's not a regular nut/bolt - it's special hardware both pieces are bronze also.
The answer is TefGel. VERY expensive stuff, but it is exactly right for this application, and a tiny bit goes a very long way. I use it for things such as mounting stainless hardware with stainless screws into aluminum spars on my boat, in a salt water environment. Ordinarily, that would be a recipe for horrendous corrosion. TefGel solves the issue.
I hate to break it to you, but if those threads rust, the oxide takes up more space over time as rust accumulates and creates a strong interference fit of sorts. Lubrication won't really help other than how much it stops corrosion.
You didn't say how much heat is involved, so there's no way to know if any chemicals might drip out, burn off, oxidize, gum up, or make things worse.
More information would help. Could something disposable by way of wire cutters (for example) be used instead? .
Automotive spark plug anti-seeze compound available at any auto parts store. If it can stand up to the heat of a spark plug it ought to work in your application.
Dan
In article , dpb wrote: ...
Hmmm. Interesting, never thought of it.
But presumably there's also a LOT of friction between the THREADS and the grooves (what's the technical name for them?) -- not that I know anything, but just from the feel of tightening a nut, that that's what the tightening is doing, squeezing the threads (male, or is my groove-vs-thread vocab totally wrong?) TIGHTLY TIGHTLY
**TIGHTLY** against the sides of the grooves (female?), SO tightly as to result in LOTS of friction (ie, LOTS of force NEEDED to OVERCOME that friction)?Can someone restate this (if basically correct) more intelligently and with the proper technical vocabulary?
THANKS!
David
Whatever "gaulding" is ... Interesting nontheless.
David
Before the following discussion on stainless-steel -- please, someone, say a bit more about this periodic loosening and retightening, pros and cons of it, what situations for doing and not doing it.
(To avoid (actually, evade) that discussion (stainless), suppose:
it's possible that you don't HAVE any of those, and/or they're too EXPENSIVE to replace all the ones you already have with them.)
Thanks!
David
I'd guess it's some type of corrosion. Just the other day I had to pull the cap off my well and the stainless bolts I put in the rusty steel/cast lid didn't want to come out easy. I ended up taking the cap in the garage and using oil and working them back and forth removed the stainless bolts. I then used some lubriplate on them and replaced the cap.
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