Weil-McLain had a program on CD several years ago. But I gave up
trying to use it because it was intended for large office spaces. In
my own house, I decided to just run SlantFin baseboard around the
outside wall. If the outside wall is kept at the right temp, the
center will surely follow because that's where the themostat is located.
I doubt that you can put in "too much" baseboard. If you do, the
house will just reach final temp sooner and the thermostat will cut off
the boiler. In fact that is more efficient because the boiler is less
than 100% efficient so you don't want it running and wasting fuel any
longer than is required.
Type it in Google...... <<<
Boy did I make a mistake in thinking that somebody here just might have some
experience and could offer advise!
Of course I looked it up in Google, just didn't see much offered.
A manual J is a manual J.
Google's first hit offers the software both for repeated use and a one-time
only use for just $49. A perfect match.
Or were you looking for "freeware"?
Just remember, the program is only as good as the data you feed it. And you
get what you pay for. You could probably hire a pro to do it, including
properly measuring your home, for about $100-$150.
If you go to Paul Milliagan's Site he offers a free download from Lennox to
perform manual J loads. Lurk over in alt.hvac. When you see one of his
posts it is in his sig line. He is quite brash to homeowners in the group,
because that is not the intention of that group. But, if you look for his
post you can get a free, easy to use program, back in the mid 90,s that is
all I used untill I bought Wrightsoft, which is my best suggestion. But if
you are looking for a single or little used this is the way to go!
I wasn't trying to be smart. I typed it in Google and came up with 3 sites
on the first page that had free demos.
None of them are the program I have on my computer, but then it again, THAT
one will cost you around $800.
It is very possible to put in too much baseboard, and it is possible to put
in too little. If you are doing heat load for a hydronic system without AC
you can use the IBR method. You can get the form from the rep where you are
buying your boiler, some come with the boiler. I would still rather have a
Manual J performed, much more accurate. Just figure 560 bTU /ft for
standard copper fin and cast baseboard, and 760 /ft for high out put copper
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