Looking for a better way........suggestions?

Oren, you stole/repeated my idea. But that's what I did, and it's simple, and it worked. AND it hasn't cracked yet in three years.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
Loading thread data ...

wrote

The guy who built the house I bought was a concrete contractor. I had to cut drains from THREE ponds he created in large patches of concrete. I thought 1" in 10" was standard slope for anything. I know it would be nice to have really level, but one of the pools was inside my garage, and I would have at least put a minimal slope in there, or cut vees for drainage. But no, he didn't. Just because these people can do things, or are even licensed doesn't mean all the bubbas and julios who show up to do the work on any given day know what they are doing.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Ditto that. You'd end up with more cracks.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Thanks guys. Here's what I am going to do: I am going to cut a groove with a saw and see how that works out. If it doesn't drain it, I will then cut another groove 4 - 6" (or slightly wider than a paver) from the first and remove the concrete and fill with gravel and top with pavers.

Also, I think the person who was operating the bull float over floated it. Thereby moving the concrete from the center to the edge. If I had to guess, he would rather float it than get down on his knees and finish it. He looked busy so the other guys thought he was too busy.

Hank

Reply to
Hustlin' Hank

Hank. When I cut one for my major pond, I 45'ed the blade and made one cut

1/4" deep. Then I went the other way, and using the blade, hogged out the other half of the 45, leaving a groove. It works fine, and doesn't tend to clog up. You just have to use a piece of plywood or something someone can stand on and not move for your saw edge guide to get a straight cut for both cuts.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Good idea.....thanks!

Hank

Reply to
Hustlin' Hank

If the slab was level in the beginning, it can be returned to its level profile without much concern. You should find a experienced mudjacker in your area and the repair should start at the lowest point and work outwards gradually lifting to a suspended taut string line. Ideally, you should use sandjacking to avoid the cracking, but you probably don't have a sandjacker in your area. chuck

Reply to
Sandjacking

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.