I posted a message earlier about light bulbs in my kitchen failing
prematurely (lasting roughly 1 month). I received some good suggestions
but did not find anything. Since then, I have paid particular attention
to the lights (there are two on the same switch). When I turn them on,
I have noticed a slight delay for the second bulb to light up. Could
this be the issue? I would think both would instantaneously light up at
the same time. I have not checked the connections, but will do so this
I assume you switched bulb brands a few times to determine it's not
just a batch of bad bulbs. If you switch the two bulbs, does the
delay problem follow the same bulb? Are they ceiling cans? If so,
the thermal switch might be causing a delay due to carboned contacts.
Need more info. Temperature change is the hardist thing on a bulb,
thats why bulbs dont last long outdoors, especially in winter. Slow
start dimmers can extend bulb life a little.
Rick, can you offer a cite confirming that temperature change is the
hardest thing on a bulb.
I'd think that given the huge difference between ambient temperatures
and the bulb filament's white hot operating temperature less than a
hundred degree swing in its starting temperature wouldn't mean diddly.
Do automobile light bulbs fail more frequently in Minnesota than in
California? I think not.
Did you maybe mean to say that it's the outside weather conditions which
cause bulb failures, stemming from moisture induced corrosion of sockets
and bulb bases, which can cause all sorts of bulb failures?
Temperature is critical on some situations. Some bulbs work with cooling
fan. Fire hazard and keeping the bulb under normal working condtion.(temp)
Try an experiment, One bulb running hotter than it should and one under
normal running temp. Hotter one will get dark sooner and it'll burn out
quicker. Anything exposed to harsh environment won't last long.
That's why there is such thing as mil-spec., commercial grade, consumer
grade, etc,, etc. Do you think car headlamps are built with same spec.
as a bulb in the kitchen? I won't install a bulb from HD on a space
By temperature change I mean sudden temp change, the sudden in rush
current to a cold filament going hot causes it to flex and eventually
break. Slow start dimmers bring the filament to temperature slowly
and avoid some of the sudden flex and resulting metal fatigue. For a
cite I would have to google around, but google for how slow start
dimmers help bulb life and that will probably explain more, I read it
myself years ago. My outdoor bulbs never lasted long, so I started
using CFL's outdoors in the carriage lights.
Thanks, the inrush current part I agree with. I mistakenly thought you
were referring to outdoor ambient temperature changes as contrasted with
the generally smaller range of indoor temperature changes.
Ans did I. The lights on either side of our front door had three
candelabra based flame shaped bulbs in each of them when we bought the
place. I don't think we could go for more than a month without one of
those six bulbs burning out, and it required a stepladder and some
serious arm twisting to replace a bulb, usually accompanied by my
cussing when I dropped one of the little decorative nuts which held the
tops on those fixtures.
Shortly after CFs became available I replaced the three sockets in each
of those fixtures with a single edison base one and stuck in CFs. That
was probably close to ten years ago now ant the original CFs are still
going strone here in Red Sox Nation.
I've seen "bulb life extenders" for incandescents which were just NTC
(negative temperature coefficient) thermistors housed in a housing you
could stick into a socket before screwing the bulb in.
Don Klipstein's work describes that application thusly:
The "extenders" I've see just slow the start by a second or two, no
where near as long as the CFLs in my outside front door lights take to
come up when it's cold outside.
But you are correct on the energy usage.
I can't wait for LED bulbs to get down to a reasonable price. From what
I've read they'll last nearly forever and won't be a serious hazardous
waste. LEDs seem to have already "taken over" in many of of the traffic
signals around here.
Yep, here's a place which sells screw-in LED bulbs, but it presently
costs nearly $70 to buy one which puts out about the same number of
lumens as a 50 watt incandescent, but consumes less than 10 watts.
When the price gets down to around $10 for an LED bulb comparable to a
75 watt incandescent you can bet I'll be standing in line to buy some.
Make sure all connections are tight in the fixtures. Ever checked
voltages? Also you can get so called long life bulbs(commercial grade)
at the lighting store which usually has a bit higher voltage rating.
My house came with these bulbs when built in '94. More than 90% of this
bulbs are still working. Another thing is heat. Excess heat will shorten
Dan, I don't know if this helps you but, I had a fixture that was going
through bulbs like yours is, my tenant was putting 75 watt and 100 watt
bulbs in a 60 watt fixture (it was pretty burnt up)
I replaced the fixture and put in the right watted bulb and my problem went
away, go figure..
First, let's get some information. What kind of lamps are these?
Standard tungsten, reflectors, florescent??? It makes a difference.
Generally high voltage, poor air circulation, poor connections over
wattage lamps for the fixtures and vibration are big causes of short life.
A check with our local municipality advised that CFLs are (like the
longer fluorescent tubes etc.) "Hazardous Waste" and trash collectors
can refuse to take them!
Although most people will probably just chuck the occasional one in
with the regular waste and they will go unnoticed!
I guess that's a few more poisoned fish in our lakes and oceans? The
drainage from our biggest dump in this part of North America, often a
horrible orange stream, drains right into the Atlantic Ocean!
But hey; it's along with all those human discarded part used DDT, 24D
(Agent Orange) and anti-dandelion and other herbicide/insecticide
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