Lightbulbs stuck in ceiling fan

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All my fans have same problem. When I go to change out a burned-out bulb, it is stuck because the threads are stuck. I guess the heat corrodes the metallic threads either in the bulb, socket or both?
I have tried WD40 some, and it helps some, but anyone have another idea?
Thanks Jethro
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avoid flame bulbs they fail stuck a lot.
turn off power and use needle nose pliars to remove.....
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wrote:

Thanks everyone!
Silicon Grease it is.
I'll get some today.
Jethro
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Jethro wrote:

make sure the bulbs have cooled and use a towel and try to twist them out if they break which will happen make sure the power is off and use a potato or needle nose pliers. Works for me. The problem with most fans these days, they're built in CHINA with cheap materials
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LIGHTLY wipe the threads with some silicon grease before you put them back it. You should be able to find this in any hardware store. Just put a dab on a rag, wipe it on, and then wipe it off, leaveing a THIN coat. This will prevent them from seizing up. The issue is not the materials ... cheap or expensive ... but the fact that they run hot, have a small surface area on the base, and any moisture will enhance corrosion. I have also heard the suggestion of jaming a raw potato (power off!!) against the broken base and using this as a lever to get the broken bulb base out of the socket.
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Evo wrote:

It's not the FAN - it's the bulbs. Aluminum bases instead of brass.
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wrote:

Really?
J
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I've never met a potato that was successful at this, and most people destroy everything picking at it with a needle nose. You certainly should use a dab of antiox to prevent it from oxidizing to begin with, but bulbs are just being made more cheaply now, and they're bases do break off the lamp. I've had excellent success using a diagonal pliers. Their wedge shaped tip fits right onto the edge of the bulb base and can turn it out without any damage to the socket below. Just be SURE to turn power off first

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I must not be like most people <g>
Once the glass have broken out of the base, I have successfully used needle nose pliers on numerous occasions to grab the metal base of the bulb and bend the edge away from the socket enough to grip it with pliers and spin it out.
However, I do agree with using some type of agent to eliminate the root cause.
RBM (remove this) wrote:

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Yes I've used needle nosed pliers to do this succesfully. I've been using this bulb lube for the last few years. Available at Lowes and Menards. This is essentially the silicone grease idea as above. You can also get a similar product at automotive stores. Richard
DerbyDad03 wrote:

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wrote:

Needle nose pliers are think and hard to use for that. I use scissors, not to cut anything but as thin-jawed pliers.
BTW, that is a common occurrence around here, where some people put strings of C9 holiday lights around their yards. Those are right next to the sidewalk and a lot do get broken (the fact that these lights make it hard to see doesn't help).

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Jethro wrote:

Quality lamps use real brass for the base material. Cheap ones use aluminum or other cheaper materials. They sometimes color the aluminum to look like brass. In the future makes sure you are getting quality lamps. The problems are doubled if the fixture is using aluminum sockets.
You might also consider using a dielectric grease on the threads. You can get it in small qualities at most automotive stores. Use very little. I suggest not using other types of grease.
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Is there some big drawback to the "push and quarter turn" style that Europe uses? I have often wondered why we stay with these damned threaded bulbs. Certainly plenty other bulb "types" have been introduced and accepted that don't need to be "screwed" in, but for the standard ceiling and lamp fixture we appear to be trapped with a crappy format.
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What's the issue? I've been using them for as long as I could turn a bulb and I've never had a problem.
Perhaps bulbs seizing up is more a factor of the gorilla like force used to tighten them in their socket. You don't have to torque them to 120 ft-lbs to get a good connection.
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In my experience I would estimate that at least a fourth of the burned out bulbs I replace break off leaving the base in the socket. I turn the bulb until it bottoms and then I stop. Should I be stopping before it bottoms?
Disregarding any of that, how many other screw-in electrical devices are there? Not many I would guess. It's just a stupid way to connect a lamp to its socket.
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Screw bulb in, turn on, unscrew intil light goes out, screw in halfway ;)
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wrote:

Yeah, perhaps if the amount of travel on the center contact was quite a bit larger then the light would illuminate while still being "loose".
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On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:54:35 GMT, "Rick Brandt"

There's the old fuses that have bases like those on light bulbs. I know someone whose house uses 3 of those (30A fuses).
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On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:31:06 GMT, "Rick Brandt"

Americans like to screw !!!!! <lol>
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WD40 is a water displacement product. And a joke. Try a very thin film of antisieze compound like you'd use on exhaust bolts.
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"Jethro" < snipped-for-privacy@somewhere.org> wrote in message
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