Light dimmer switch; can failure just cause lack of bright lights?

Page 2 of 2  
replying to larry, MIKE THE SPARK wrote:

This is not an answer to any of the above, but i thought it may be of interest. I have in my posesion, a 1920,s dimmer switch. It is a large 'jelly mould' shape in brass with brown ceramic mount. At first glance it looks like a standard togle type light switch exept for the size - diam 95mm, depth 90mm - and the fact that it has many ventilation holes in the brass cover. The toggle however slides up and down. This is connected to two blades which in turn slide against two sets of carbon pads. Iy was new and boxed when I found it while clearing out an old store and to my knowledge has never been used. It is stamped with a rating of 70 watts & 110 volts DC and after a bit of digging around I have dicovered that very early electricity was generated localy and supplied as 110volts dc to a few of the better properties in our town. I think that the supply was intented for very early domestic lighting only.
Does anyone know anything else/conflicting etc
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Check a light that is not on a dimmer. If it looks less bright, it is probably a power problem. If it isn't then it is probably a faulty dimmer switch.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If in doubt take dimmer out and put in a regular 50-75 cent switch, two connections. If it's solid state dimmer it may be making radio noise (RFInterference) and is probably more prone to voltage hits. Keep it simple! Haven't used a dimmer in this house for last 37 years! So never had to replace one, have maybe replaced couple of switches in that time period. Like everything else, with electrcity simplest is best.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
terry wrote:

Hi, No energy conservation?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
terry wrote:

Use a three position switch hi-off-medium, use a 3-10Amp rectifier diode (A15) between hi and medium terminal, line to common terminal, lamp to hi terminal. Or add a switch with diode in parallel, then wire switch(hi-medium) in series with regular circuit. This used to be available as a coin size "lamp saver" that you placed in a socket, under the bulb. Perfect for porch & pole lights since the bulb would last for years.
Large 20 amp diode (or one leg of bridge rectifier-1/4" terminals) in series with low voltage lighting makes those 4/7 watt bulbs last longer than the fixture ;-)
-- larry / dallas
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What kind of light bulbs are you using?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.