And it was only 117F here, once. :>
I recall waiting on a street corner many years earlier (didn't live there
at the time) for a friend (who lived on LSD) to pick me up. Got into his
car and stuffed my fingers *into* the heater duct by the floorboard...
I enjoyed the change of seasons -- and good apples! But, I could arrange
to spend my time indoors if the weather was inclement (and watch out the
window as all my neighbors fought with the rain and snow). That wasn't
true of most folks who had to contend with dragging themselves off to
Now, I like the fact that I can go for a walk damn near any time of day
and any day of the year -- just by opening the front door. I don't have
to plan on what-ifs -- in case it chooses to rain/snow/etc. Worst case,
a sudden storm will come up and drench me in the course of a block or two.
But, it won't be that numbing cold rain. Rather, something warm.
And, there's so much more "going on" as the weather draws people and
activities that would be too hard to plan for, elsewhere ("Will it rain
and ruin our event?"). Two weeks back, a neighbor had a birthday party
(outdoors) 'til the wee hours of the morning -- though I think only the
brave/foolish went into the pool!
Ten days ago I was out watching shooting stars at 4AM. Would you try that
in Chicago (assuming you *could* see the sky!) in mid November? Next event
will be in mid February...
The 60w is the heat shedding ability of the luminaire. With a 60w, U/L
says it should still run at a (fire) safe temperature. You will not
burn your house down if you use a 75w equivalent bulb that actually
uses 4w or even 40w.
If it was close, I would worry a lot more about the longevity of a LED
or other electronic bulb running at a "safe" temperature for an
incandescent. (perhaps 100-129f)
At 4w I see no issue at all.
It's not the light output that limits the wattage a lamp is limited
to, it's the heat - which is a function of real watts. You could put a
blinding 60 watt LED in if you could find one - equivalent to well
over 240 watts in light output (;umens)
On 11/24/2015 6:39 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I thought I bought the 60W LED replacement bulb, but ended up buying a
75W LED. I guess they were sitting next to each other. Anyway, I ended
up buying the 75W when I thought I was buying a 60W. It has 1350 lumens
according to the package. So, according to what I've read in a couple
other responses, I should be OK using the 75W LED replacement bulb in
the 60W socket because the 75W bulb still uses less wattage (14W), right?
On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 16:56:47 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've been seeing a therapist to enable me to accept CFL's in place of
real light bulbs.
Last week I asked him about teaching me to accept LEDs and he said
we'd have to start at the beginning again. I feel like I've wasted 2
years and all that money for therapy. (Insurance won't pay.)
Is there some adapter I could get that would enable my acceptance of
CFLs to be converted to acceptance of LEDs? Either an electrcric or
an alphabetic adapter?
The real problem with all of the alternatives is they really only do
well with a very narrow range of light wavelengths. The incandescent
is a wide band emitter, all the way from infra red to the UV. It will
always be closer to sunlight.
Sounds like you are not taking enough vitamin D3 pills daily. You can
take 6000iu every day in winter. Very important, again very important!!!
What is your D level in your blood test? 80 Mols at least. If not do
something. Also use day light bulbs in living space.
Yes -- with some reservations.
First, of course, if the incandescent is in a dimmable fixture, then
you'd need a dimmable LED (or CFL) bulb. At the very least, you
will be disappointed if you try to dim a (LED/CFL) bulb that was
not designed for this form of operation.
[And, you'll probably also be disappointed if you try to dim a
DIMMABLE CFL -- they suck!]
*Running* (burning?), an LED (or CFL) bulb draws considerably less power
than it's "light equivalent" incandescent counterpart. So, if the light
was left on forever, you could conceivably approach the "power rating" of
the socket (and CIRCUIT!). Power translates into heat that is primarily
dissipated in the socket.
But, lights turn on and off. And, the mechanisms that are used to
turn them on/off vary. During these transitions, the electrical
behavior of incandescents and LED (or CFL) differ.
There are very large, reactive currents associated with the non-incandescent
alternatives. So, when driven by relays, triacs, etc. it is common for these
sorts of lights to draw very large currents on startup and/or when abruptly
switched off -- considerably higher than the currents that would be required
for a "light equivalent" incandescent!
In many applications, the control circuitry for these lights is designed
to be pretty marginal (typical "consumer" approach -- save every penny that
isn't REQUIRED by the product). E.g., a 60W lamp is a tiny load so the
circuitry to drive it wouldn't be as capable as, for example, a "light
switch" that can typically handle a 15A (1800W) load!
Using LED/CFL in these places can cause the control circuit to fail
such that the light never lights *or* never extinguishes! What's
worse, instead of a burnt out bulb, you end up with a burnt out
Ask yourself why you really "need" more light.
Or, you can buy one of the "programmable" lights that you can change
color dynamically: "Hmmm... I feel like RED for dinner, tonight..."
[I'd not recommend that (expensive) option; the bulbs in question
I agree with Don. Also, beware using LEDs as the load on a timer/motion
sensor switch which does not use a neutral (white) wire. In this case, the
circuit that powers the timer or sensor uses the load as a 'virtual' ground
at a current insufficient to light a filament, but enough to light LEDz,
albeit intermittently and dim. I did this in my garden shed (motion sensor
switch) and needed to put one halogen bulb in the load or else the LEDs all
flickered when they were supposed to be "off". Also, CFLs do something that
is "sensed" by the motion sensor as motion.
Oooo! I hadn't thought of that!
Many of our light switches (in the house) are illuminated (I suspect a
small neon bulb?). Of course, the bulb is only lit when the switch
is OFF (and there is potential across the switch's contacts THROUGH
the load -- light bulb!)
So, like your comment (above), current is flowing through the CFL/LED
(as it would have been for an incandescent -- but the incandescent won't
[Trivia: with these sorts of light switches, the LACK of illumination
indicates the bulb(s) are dead (or, power to the circuit is out) -- for
As long as the motion detector has a neutral connection (white wire)
and a relay it will work with just about anything. The problem is when
the power to run it is scavenged through the load (no neutral).
Usually they flicker when "off".
The small amount of current buffers up in the little switcher power
supply capacitor and discharges like a relaxation oscillator.
The other thing I have seen is very low current loads may not be
enough to reliably cut a solid state switching device off.
I have an optical to RCA adapter on my TV that I tried to control with
an SSR (off the USB port). Until I put the amplifier in the load path,
it was flickering on and off too.
It does not take much of an incandescent bulb (11 watts works) or a
small transformer wall wart to get these things working right.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.