Have had it for almost 4 years but recently operation is erratic. No problems with the button in the garage but using the remote is problematic. I have a spare that was never used and it gave the same results, so I thought the batteries might have died, but they were checked out as virtually new and fully charged.
So I suppose the only conclusion is that the opener is starting to screw up. Is there anything I can check for obvious failure?
Look for small antenna, at the receiver. Look for loose wires. Those do take some vibration.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
So I suppose the only conclusion is that the opener is starting to screw up. Is there anything I can check for obvious failure?
Revised. Sorry, what I wrote wasn't quite what I meant.
Look for small antenna, at opener in the garage. This should be the radio receiver. Look for loose wires in or around the receiver. Those do take some vibration.
If you have the skills, power off, pull the receiver off. Take it apart, look for cold solder joints.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
So I suppose the only conclusion is that the opener is starting to screw up. Is there anything I can check for obvious failure?
The antenna wire is coiled. I stretched it out a bit but thought that maybe it has a particular configuration for a reason besides that of just not hanging around and possibly in the way
Or "checked out as virtually new and fully charged" batteries are not the equivalent of "literally new".
Did you try them in a flashlight, put a little load on them? -----
- gpsman
I took them to a Battery Store which checked them on their device. As it would have been in their best interest to either sell me a battery or make me a recurring customer, I believed their results
Were the batteries checked out under load, such as by holding down the remote button while measuring its voltage? No-load battery voltage can be misleading, and I wouldn't expect a
4-year-old battery to stil be OK unless it's a lithium type, especially if the remote's button doesn't actually connect and disconnect the power (in other words, the remote always draws a tiny amount of power).Before working on the opener, unplug its AC power because you don't want to get shocked or have the opener start unexpectedly and grab your hair or a sleeve or chop off a finger. I'm serious. There's a big capacitor for the motor; it's about 30mm - 50mm in diameter and 60mm - 120mm long that can hold a high voltage charge even after the AC is unplugged, so don't touch it. Discharge it by touching both of its contacts with a plastic-handled screwdriver, making sure to not touch the metal screwdriver shaft.
Openers vibrate a lot, so maybe the antenna wire's solder joint at the circuit board has cracked, or the wire may have cracked inside its insulation, just beyond the joint. If you replace the antenna, use a piece of wire the same length as the original, and if it's coiled up, wind the wire the same way -- same size, length, and number of turns because those factors actually tune the antenna. Because of vibration, it might be a good idea to check all the solder joints for cracks with a magnifying glass and flashlight. Cracks are most likely to develop around heavy components (I don't think there are any in the radio receiver section) and connectors. Solder cracks can be nearly microscopic.
I remember Liftmaster openers having 2 circuit boards connected together with pin sockets whose contacts can oxidize or work loose, so consider unplugging and replugging them a few times to clean them. Be careful to not any bend pins or reinsert them into the wrong holes.
Liftmaster is also sold as Chamberlain and Sears Kenmore, and it's possible you'll find more information under those names.
If the radio circuitry is bad, either replace the circuit board, or get a new radio that attaches to the button on the wall. If you do the latter, cut off the antenna of the opener.
I'd just try a new fresh bayyery and also antenna on the opener.
Who can tell? Should work about the same.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
The antenna wire is coiled. I stretched it out a bit but thought that maybe it has a particular configuration for a reason besides that of just not hanging around and possibly in the way
I'd just try a new fresh battery and check the antenna on the opener.
de quoted text -
All the assumptions have been that the receiver is actually on the motor/lift assembly.
But, some openers have a separate receiver that closes contacts just like when the wall switch/button is pushed. The OP did not say which he had.
Also, no matter what type of receiver, try several configurations/ arrangements of the receiving antennna. Start out with the transmitter close by, walk away until the receiver no longer responds, and stay at that point while someone else rearranges the receiver antenna and see if reception is now better. If not, try a couple more antenna arrangements before restoring the antenna to its original shape.
I just went out and placed the backup remote almost touching the antenna wire, I also pushed both small buttons separately, then touched the large button and voila, the door works. Went out to the vehicle and it worked from there. Tried the primary one and it works also. I'm suspecting some form of mechanical constipation, but since at least for now everything is working I'm going to leave it at that.
Thanks everyone
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