LED flashlight report for home repair

I had modified with a 219 because I wanted something awesome. It's in my pocket now. (Sunwayman V11R modified by a guy who advertises on CPF if you care. the reason for that particular light is I love the magnetic control ring UI combined with the tailcap on/off switch...)

enough that I figured I could justify a little "extravagance" and getting exactly what I wanted. If this lasts me, say, as long as a car, it'll have been worth it.

There is a lot to be said for a EDC light that fits your needs. My Dad's was a mini mag with LED Nite Ize module in a belt carry nylon holster. Other folks I know, like the Innova, or some other.

Mine was Mini Mag with Teralux module. I looked under my truck one day, and left it behind. It was about three hours drive away, and I didn't think it would be there when I returned (Walmart parking lot). The new Teralux 5-EX I got over heated and went dark. I was able to exchange it and get a new one. Draws 1.4 watts, and puts out good light.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon
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How do I find the CPF ad? (I'd probably be too cheap to buy one.)

I thought my HL21 had a CRI of 80. It's 70. I remembered it was better than a cool-white fluorescent light, which is 62. I remember my delight in the 1970s when I discovered cool white deluxe: less lumens, but a CRI of 85.

The HL22 and the HL50 seem to have a CRI of 75. I was about to order an HL50 because of its better color and broader beam. Then a reviewer pointed out that it uses fine-pitch aluminum threads that aren't anodized. They get stuck, can get cross-threaded, and take a lot of turns to unscrew.

I want to be able to change batteries one-handed in the dark! I wonder why Fenix didn't use coarse, anodized threads, like other Fenix lights and the Sunwayman V11R.

Reply to
J Burns

This may not be relevant to your threads, but the HF free ones they give out, the machining is awful. I take the end cap off, and put a blast of petroleum jelly on the threads. Helps a lot.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

That's a reason I'm sold on headlamps. If I go to look at something, it's on my head. If I'm carrying it, it's around my neck or in my pocket, where the friction of the crumpled strap seems to keep it from falling out.

If I put a light down, it's easier to spot if it's bright pink, yellow, or green. I'm disappointed that the HL50 comes only in black. To me, the fine untreated aluminum threads are one reason not to buy one. The color is another.

Reply to
J Burns

A reviewer said he lubed the threads on the HL50, too. Was that you? ;)

Reply to
J Burns

Naah, that guy was way better looking. But, must be a kindred spirit.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

actually the threads on the V11R feel rough and nasty compared to a Surefire or Streamlight... but I have not yet lubed anythign yet (Super Lube is cheap at HF and works great)

here is the link to the discussion of the specific light that I bought

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nate

Reply to
N8N

HF actually sells the fix for a reasonable price as I said in my last post - Super Lube is good stuff for flashlight O-rings/threads.

nate

Reply to
N8N

You consider seven bucks for three ounces "reasonable"? I got petroleum jelly years ago, now days it's 3.5 ounces for dollar at Dollar Tree.

Might work as motor assembly grease, too. I know it does OK on hf free flash light threads.

Advance Auto has tubes of dielectric grease, best price I've found. Hanging on cards near RTV and small tubes of caulk.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

What makes that worth $110?

For a hundred bucks, they can't grease the threads at the factory?

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

efire or Streamlight... but I have not yet lubed anythign yet (Super Lube i s cheap at HF and works great)

The fact that there's nothing available comparable for less. Did I want to pay that much, no not really, but just like buying from the Snap-On man, a t least you only cry once. Keep in mind the "stock" unmodified light is $7

0 on Amazon...

I tried an EagleTac D25C Ti 219 (only factory-made light I could find that qualified as pocketable, had a UI I liked, and a proper low mode which was what was missing from my previous EDC light) but it lost its modes when usi ng a RCR123A (everything but moonlight was "turbo" mode with the increased voltage of the RCR.) The V11R is infinitely variable output (sometimes you want dim, not bright) and with the mods that I had Vinh do, high is stupid bright and it's got the Nichia 219 high CRI emitter. It'll also run on a CR123A, RCR123A/16340, or with the extender tube an alkaline or NiMH AA cel l (although high probably won't work out well on an alkaline) or 14500. Wi th some minor machine shop work and another extender, it could theoreticall y run off of 16650s or 17670s as well.

Yes, it is very expensive, but then again, I'll be carrying it every day fo r years, so amortized over that period, it's not that expensive at all.

nate

Reply to
N8N

On a "good" light I would make sure that PJ won't soften the O-rings over time. On a HF light it's probably not worth putting an O-ring in it if it fails...

nate

Reply to
N8N

for less. Did I want to pay that much, no not really, but just like buying from the Snap-On man, at least you only cry once. Keep in mind the "stock" unmodified light is $70 on Amazon...

light I could find that qualified as pocketable, had a UI I liked, and a proper low mode which was what was missing from my previous EDC light) but it lost its modes when using a RCR123A (everything but moonlight was "turbo" mode with the increased voltage of the RCR.) The V11R is infinitely variable output (sometimes you want dim, not bright) and with the mods that I had Vinh do, high is stupid bright and it's got the Nichia 219 high CRI emitter. It'll also run on a CR123A, RCR123A/

16340, or with the extender tube an alkaline or NiMH AA cell (although high probably won't work out well on an alkaline) or 14500. With some minor machine shop work and another extender, it could theoretically run off of 16650s or 17670s as well.

carrying it every day for years, so amortized over that period, it's not that expensive at all.

I've got about $40 or so invested in a mini mag and LED conversion. Fits in my pocket, adjustable beam, and takes AA cells.

I'm not enough of a techie to know why that light is better. One cell? Adjustable light intensity?

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

To me it's a) the flexibility of using several different kinds of cells (so I have a fighting chance of finding *something* that it'll eat at a store if I end up caught out with a dead cell and no spares) b) the high-CRI, ~45

00K emitter for really accurate color rendering c) the availability of a re ally dim mode.

The last reason is why I retired my previous EDC light (a ~$30 Fenix E11, a really good light actually, I beat the crap out of it for several years an d then gave it to my girlfriend as she had no EDC at all) when I discovered that I could not use it to read a book by in a dark hospital room without having to shield it with my hand, as the lower of its two modes was still W AY too bright to not be offensive.

Now for a work only light you probably don't need that capability, but in m y mind a proper EDC, always on your person light should.

If you're happy with your mini mag, more power to you - there's nothing fun damentally wrong with mags and if you look over at CPF people use them as b ases for all kinds of cool conversions as well.

nate

Reply to
N8N

different kinds of cells (so I have a fighting chance of finding *something* that it'll eat at a store if I end up caught out with a dead cell and no spares) b) the high-CRI, ~4500K emitter for really accurate color rendering c) the availability of a really dim mode.

light (a ~$30 Fenix E11, a really good light actually, I beat the crap out of it for several years and then gave it to my girlfriend as she had no EDC at all) when I discovered that I could not use it to read a book by in a dark hospital room without having to shield it with my hand, as the lower of its two modes was still WAY too bright to not be offensive.

that capability, but in my mind a proper EDC, always on your person light should.

you - there's nothing fundamentally wrong with mags and if you look over at CPF people use them as bases for all kinds of cool conversions as well.

I'll admit, not tried to read book with my mini mag. I can imagine that people have different needs, some folks need long distance to shoot coon out of a tree. All based on what you need.

Thanks for some good ideas. I've never had trouble finding AA cells.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I see the Zebralight H502d L2 has a Philips emitter with a CRI of 85. It's a floodlight with a 120-degree spread.

Reply to
J Burns

Yup, AAs are easy to find... UNTIL there's a panic about a snowstorm or so mething then they all disappear. CR123As on the other hand hold much more energy so most "high end" flashlights are designed around those, also while expensive they tend to last longer in the stores. But your local gun shop will probably sell you a 12 pack of Surefire CR123As for about what the tw o pack of Duracell ones cost in the drug store. And there are rechargeable cells available in both formats (Li-Ion 16340 for CR123A; NiMH aka Eneloop for AA)

Basically, I just like having options. Just got the AA extender tube in th e mail yesterday, although I'm still running a 16340 in it right now.

nate

Reply to
N8N

panic about a snowstorm or something then they all disappear. CR123As on the other hand hold much more energy so most "high end" flashlights are designed around those, also while expensive they tend to last longer in the stores. But your local gun shop will probably sell you a 12 pack of Surefire CR123As for about what the two pack of Duracell ones cost in the drug store. And there are rechargeable cells available in both formats (Li-Ion 16340 for CR123A; NiMH aka Eneloop for AA)

the AA extender tube in the mail yesterday, although I'm still running a 16340 in it right now.

Hey, mate. I live in NYS, we don't have gun stores. Guns are illegal, here.

You're right about batteries disappearing. I've not had problems with that, I've got plenty at home, and several in my two vehicles. I've heard that C cells are the last ones standing in stores.

. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

One reason I turned down the Fenix HL50 was that I disliked having options when this entailed increasing the size and weight of a headlamp by screwing an extender tube into it.

I use the lower-capacity Eneloops, about 2000 mah, or 2.5 Watt-hours. I haven't used a CR123A for anything, but I see it has 1500 mah or 4.5 Watt-hours. I have to pop a cell into my headlamp twice as often, but it's convenient.

I haven't paid attention to the price of C123a's. I think a Duracell lists for $8. I've been paying about $3 for an Eneloop. By my calculations, the depreciation is a fraction of a penny per charge, and the electricity costs less than depreciation.

When my supply of charged Eneloops runs low, I pop them into the charger instead of driving to a store. If I ran low in a month-long power failure, I'd connect my 1-hour charger to my car battery.

My only experience with Li-ions is in a couple of cameras. I'd prefer that they ran on AA's because the Li-ions take a long time to recharge. The technology seems complicated, and I believe these batteries have a limited service life.

Do I like to argue or what! :)

Reply to
J Burns

There's pros and cons to both.

Both Li-Ions and lithium primaries have a longer shelf life than do LSD NiM H and alkaline respectively. However they do have more safety consideratio ns than do NiMH and alkaline - Li-Ions can in fact "vent with flame" if mis handled, so while I'll use them, please always use protected cells in multi

-cell lights (or just use single cell Li-Ion lights only if you know you're not going to check everything with a multimeter or smart charger)

nate

Reply to
N8N

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