I thought LED bulbs were supposed to last for many years. I put on in my
barn about 2 years ago. It's on all the time as a safety light. It only
uses about 5 watts so I'm not concerned about energy usage. (25W
All of a sudden it has gotten real dim, and it flickers. I'm wondering
what caused that? I know it cant be fixed and needs to be replaced, but
I did not think the LED bulbs were supposed to fail for many years.
When I shut it off, it stays lit for a few seconds after the switch is
OFF, so I imagine there is a capacitor in it, but obviously that cap is
working..... But it's less than half as bright as it used to be, and
1+ on Songbird advice.
Try a known good bulb in the same socket.
If the symptom repeats, call an electrician IMMEDIATELY.
You also try the suspect bulb somewhere else with a
known good socket (the socket's current resident works
If not, replace the bulb and be careful of cheap bulbs.
It's not the wiring - its cheapassed chinese electronics rearing
it's ugly head again. Proper circuit design and assembly yields LED
lights that last for years. Cheapassed engineering and sloppy assembly
yields LED lights that can last as little as 100 hours. If the
engineering is OK and only the assembly is slipshod, you may get about
1 in 10 (as I did on a large installation) lasting 3 or more years
On some the electronics just fail, in others the electronics cause the
LED to fail, and on others the LED fails because it is not properly
SOME chinese products have decent quality control, but it is
definitely a case of caviat your emptor - or something like that.
just that i had a direct wired LED light fail, but
it was actually the wiring that went instead, which
i didn't check until after i'd returned the unit and
put the replacement in and it still didn't work.
But it didn't fail in the way the OP's failed Leds going dim and
flickering are a bad LED. Going right out can be wiring.
Strobing is also a bad LED - usually a low voltage one (12 volt
instead of 120)
You got that! CFL's will last a log time too, but no
one will spend the necessary money on one to achieve it.
White LED's are actually more fragile than you would think.
You have to get the heat out or they lose their ability
to shed light. Colored ones can take a lot more heat.
I am an Electrical Engineer. You are not off track.
You are following best practice in troubleshooting.
Clare is just looking at what is most probable.
There is just a tiny bit of cross talk here.
Basically, your advice was spot on. If a fresh
bulb doesn't change the symptom, or trying the
suspect bulb out on another wiring run and the
bulb works properly, it is the wiring and could
be a danger to the structure.
Now, back to my zucchini!
'Checkmate, DoW #1[_2_ Wrote:
> Do you even know what a full wave bridge is?
Its also called a pontoon bridge. Anyone who it not dim knows that.
A full wave bridge is necessary to keep LEDs above bigger waves.
LEDs work best when a constant current source is beneath that bridge.
Current must be constant and only in one direction (always a DC or
That is not what MBTF means. If the bulb had, say 1000 hour
MBTF, it would mean that you put 1000 bulbs in a test bench
and ran them for an hour. Only one failed. MBTF does not
tell you anything about the second and so forth hours.
(I did MBTF analysis for the military.)
A good gauge of how long something will last is the warranty.
They taught us in college to set it at 90% of useful lifespan.
Course, some manufacturers are just lazy and set it at a year.
And others figure (correctly in most cases) a customer will not spend
$8 to send the defective unit back to china to get a $2 part replaced
It was bad enough when a "lifetime warranteed" memory module for my
laptop failed and one way shipping to return it to the "manufacturer"
in California cost me $18, it took over 3 weeks to get it replaced,
and I could buy another "lifetime guaranteed" module locally for $22..
I returned it "just on principal" and couldn't wate for it to be
returned so bought one locally anyway. Now I have an obvsolete brand
new memory module sitting in stock that I'll likely never use, that
effectively cost me $40.
I remember seeing some socket sets that had the lifetime guarantee.
They cost about $ 5. If oe broke you sent the old one back and $ 4.95
for shipping and handling to get it replaced.
Except for very bit ticket items, the warrenty does not seem to be worth
vrey much. Even the home warrenty you can get when you buy a house
seems worthless if you count up all the costs.
That is why I do not like to buy through the mail. Within 90 days, I
expect a local dealer to replace or refund a defective item.
With regard to LED Bulb reliability, why should it be much different
from CFL Bulbs? I have taken some defective CFL Bulbs apart and found
the defect is mostly due to an electronic part failure. Often they do
not they last long enough for the Fluorescent tube to turn black from
MOST home warrantees are a total expense -you'd have to buy a
realshack for it to ever pay off - and even then the exclusions would
end up killing you.
Extended warrantees on complex home electronics MAY be worthwhile -
particularly if they also cover accidental damage or loss.
Tool warrantees on tools you buy locally and get coverage at point of
sale can be worthwhile - particularly when they are a universal
warranty. Snap-on warrants their hand tools - replace "at the truck"
Craftsman warrantee was at any sears store. Mastercraft pro tools -
any Canadian Tire store, Proto at any UAP, etc.
Most of the tool warrantees that I have seen are already factored in the
price of the tool from the more expensive brands. YOu do not have the
option of one or not. That is if I go to Sears and get a Craftsman
wrench it will cost a certain price and I can not opt out of the
warrantee to get for a lesser price. If I buy an oven from them, they
will try to sell me an extended warrantee. I do have a choice on that.
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