Leaking steel pipe - how to fix


I have a leaking steel pipe that supplies warm water to radiators in my house.
A plumber dropped by and said it would be easiest to cut the bad part away and weld a replacement. The pipe is about 2 inches thick.
The replacement is about two feet.
The plumber gave me a quote of about $2000 which I promptly refused.
What about using a fiberglass or something else? I'd rather just cut the cracked steelpipe part away and weld a copper replacement part. Any ideas?
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Plumber is right, but the price is outrageous. Getting a welder out to the house is a couple of hundred bucks though. I'd replace the entire pipe. If one small section is leaking, the rest of the ipe is probably in bad shape also. Find a better plumber.
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Call another plumber. See if the new guy's estimate agrees with the first guy's estimate. If it does, ask why it is so expensive. They may have a reason for asking for so much.
Mike
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I called another plumber which has worked for couple of my neighbors. After seeing the leak he quoted $350 which I promptly accepted!
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Steel clamps with rubber work fine to stop leaks on high pressure 60-100+ lb water, your boiler is 10-30lb max. Years ago before good rubber leather was used
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wrote:

Once the job is done for $350 and you are convinced it's repaired, call the BBB and turn the thief in. If someone else had done this in the past he might not have tried to pull this on you. He's put the screws to others in the past and got away with it. If unchecked, his practice will continue.
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Dave wrote:

My Dad told me to always get three quotes on major items. That's enough to see the spread and few enough to avoid wasting time.
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On Fri, 27 Oct 2006 08:23:15 -0400, Stubby

The three estimate thing isalways the best way to go..though some of us (including me) get lazy about it sometimes. It's also a good thing to let each of them know that you are pricing out the job...it often gets them to actually give you their best price.
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Are you talking about regular iron pipe, with threaded ends and fittings? and 2 inches "thick" do you mean diameter? Pipe is measured by ID, so "about 2 inches thick" would likel be 1 1/2" pipe. That size implies steam to me rather than hot water, but it could be either.
Could you describe the leak? Is it s crack, leaking at a fitting, damaged, corroded or ??? It would make a difference as to best method of repair.
--
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Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
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snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net () wrote:

It's hot water for radiators in the house. The 2 inches thick mean diameter.

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If it were a no pressure system like a sewer, I'd suggest take the bad section out and use Fernco couplers.
http://www.hy-techroofdrains.com/images/drn-fer1000.jpg
I don't know if one of these would take the pressure and temperature of a heat system. 15 PSI and 190F is a bit much for a rubber coupler.
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Christopher A. Young
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Dave wrote:

Related I suppose ... I had a leak in the 1/2 copper water pipe. A temporary fix was to put a wrap or two of electrical tape around the leak, and then apply a hose clamp ... the kind that tightens using a screw. And about that temporary ... I put it on about a year ago, it's still there. When I get around to redoing the bathroom (which may be this winter, maybe next), I'll do the permanent fix.
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