Laying ceramic floor tiles in a kitchen?

Hi, I am about to lay ceramic floor tiles in my kitchen, which is about 5m x 7m. The problem is 40% of the floor is on floor boards and the rest is concrete (an extention). I have heard lots of stories that I would have to overboard the floor boards and that would cause another problem as the floors are the same height at present. Any ideas onthis and the best type of flexible tile bond/grout would be appreciated.
Stu http://www.cateringappliancesltd.co.uk
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stu spake thus:

Yes; there's this stuff that in the US is called "wonderboard"; I think the official name is something like "fiberglass concrete board", or some such. About 1/2" thick, comes in 4'x8' sheets, cuts easily, serves as excellent underlayment for tile. But you *definitely* don't want to lay tile over floor boards directly; that's just asking for future trouble.
--
Napoleon won the battle of Waterloo. The German Wehrmacht won World War
II. The United States won in Vietnam, and the Soviets in Afghanistan.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18 Sep 2006 23:47:40 -0700, "Stu"

Talk to the tile store about a membrane. This is a thin sheet that goes under the tile and prevents movement under the membrane from being transferred to the tile. It is very common when tile is laid over "green" concrete that is probably going to crack. It isn't cheap
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stu wrote:

Mastic is somewhat flexible - much more so than the cementacious thinset normally used - but that doesn't matter...if the supporting surface (boards) flexes the grout between tiles will certainly crack and the tiles themselves may.
If the wood portion isn't suitable "as is" (probably isn't) and you want both areas to be the same height then you'll have to increase both areas by the same dimension; e.g., 3/4" ply + 1/2" cement board over both wood and concrete. If there is any bounce to the boards now you may well have to go thicker than 3/4" ply.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I had a problem with a floor that flexed in one area even after using the concrete backer board. Some of the original grout was cracking and coming up in this one area about a year after installation.
We took out the old sand grout in that area and replaced it with epoxy.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
1/4 inch hardibacker & thinset is my suggestion.
On 18 Sep 2006 23:47:40 -0700, "Stu"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Paulaner wrote:

Schluter-Ditra is a product that supposedly eliminates cracking problems. It's maybe 3/16" thick, so your height problem would be minimized. Expensive though.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.