Lawnmower Re-Starting problem

Hi,
My son doesn't live in the area, so I can't go down there and offer any advice first hand. Also, he's pretty non-mechanical.
Anyway, he has a Toro walk behind lawnmower purchased last year, so it's pretty new. It's the kind you squeeze the handle, and it moves. Pretty typical kind; bought at HD.
Anyway, it always starts just fine. But after a 1/2 hour or so, just about every time, it shuts off. Won't re-start (while hot). Plenty of gas and oil.
But when trying again when cold after a few days, it starts just fine.
Any ideas what might be wrong ?
Any hints on getting it to re-start while very warm ?
i don't think there is any Carb lever on these models like for full-choke, half-choke, etc. Are there ?
Thanks, Bob
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Pull the plug wire when it dies and short it to the block, no spark indicates the ignition module is going bad. If you get spark it might be some sort of vapor lock try a different regular gas
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wrote:

Try to crank after doing these (when hot).
1. Loosen the gas cap
2. Remove air filter
Might run then. A "cracked coil" will act like this when they get hot, but do the easy checks first.
Oren
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I'd have him start with the obvious...
1. Clean and gap the sparkplug
2. Clean the air filter, or replace it
3. Change oil
There is no starting choke on these things. There are instructions in the manual that came with it for these things. The air cleaner comes off with a screwdriver usually. They are a "dry" type, and can't be cleaned, so just replace, typically, once a season.
Oil should be 10W30. Likely a quart or less. Wrench (socket) usually, to take out fitting. Don't overfill.
Sparkplug will need a sparkplug wrench. I would suggest he replace it annually anyways. Put some "anti seize" on the threads, and don't overtighten. Anti-seize (from any good auto supply store) lets you take the sucker apart in the future with much greater ease!
While he is at it, take off the blade (pull the sparkplug wire off first!!!). Socket wrench needed here. File ALONG the blade to take out any nicks, and put a better edge on it. Maintain the contour of the old blade. Do not take off excessive metal, or you can get it out of balance.
These things should be done once a season, as a rule. If I am using my mower heavily, then I will change about every 20 hours of usage. Also, oil or grease the wheel bearings, as appropriate. A small grease gun might be needed. Use a heavy oil for the wheel bearings, if they aren't the grease kind.
Blow out the crap/dead grass/etc. from the air ducts. Stuff there can cause things to easily overheat.
All the stuff you need can be obtained at any "big box" store, or your local hardware store.
If there is a drive belt, check its condition. Keep a spare around, along with a spare plug, and spare air filter. The number for the plug size is on the insulator of the plug.
Hose the mower off now and then, and especially underneath where grass builds up. This is especially an issue with the "mulching" mowers.
Sunburn and blisters are on your own... <grin>
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Mine has a gas cap problem and has those same symptoms.
Seems like it is a temperature problem, but it really is a vacuum in the gas tank problem. While it cools down, it also loses the vacuum and starts and runs fine til it gets hot or builds a vacuum. The apparent heat problem is a complete red herring.
The fix for me is to wedge something in the gas cap so it can breathe. After doing that the mower starts whether hot or cold.
wrote:

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