Laminate flooring joint problem


Laying a very light colored laminate floor (Maple). I can see some of the end joints. In other words, it appears like the MDF core can be seen. I wouldn't have this problem if the flooring was dark. I am not a pro, but I think I am putting the floor down correctly. Is there a way to disguise the end joint so it blends better?
These are approximately 4ft x 6" planks.
Thanks.
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Is this a T & G setup or an interlock that snaps together? You are tapping them together with a block, right? Or using the tool on the end to pull them together.
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Jack wrote:

In addition to a utility knife and a rubber hammer:
You may need this tool http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber416
And definitely this one (the metal thing in the center). Also a 2# sledge. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber447
You need these tools because no matter how much wiggling and cursing you do, some of the planks will steadfastly refuse to snap together.
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I have a pull bar. I am putting them together tight. They are a click-lock type of flooring. no glue. It seems like they may be shrinking ?? I lay some floor at night, then the next night, some of the end joints seem to have slightly separated, just enough so I can see the joint. I let the panels acclimate for 2 days or so before I put them down. This is in a basement on a dricore subfloor. The laminate is rated for basement use.

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Have the boards boxes been opened for several weeks in the house?? THey need to acclimate.
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Did you take them out of the box to acclimate? Two days may not be enough, especially if still in a solid mass.
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Jack wrote:

Acclimatization is measured in weeks; two days is no more than, "Hi".
--

dadiOH
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HeyBub wrote:

now, and neither were wet.
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In typed:

Get a similar colored stain and let it soak into the joints?
Remove & reinstall is always possible too if you're energetic enough.
You probably didn't sufficiently butt the ends together while you were installing. I suppose there could have been a quality problem with the product too. Are all the visible ones places where you cut them with a saw? It's possible to do everything right and still have them show if your saw wasn't set to an accurate 90 degree cut verticall and/or horizontally. Per the instructions, I always undercut the vertical just a very little, tiny bit so the top sticks out more than the bottom; like you do with moldings; it insures the top surfaces will touch each other when they're butted, as long as it's an accurate 90 in the horizontal cut.
HTH,
Twayne`
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