Kitchen Sink P-Trap problem

The stainless steel sink is dual bowl, with a garbage disposal (not shown) connected to the right drain.
These two photos show the layout of the plumbing: https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16272219299/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16458466225/in/photostream/
The center of the left bowl's drain was about 3/8" too close to the entrance to the p-trap. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/15836084224/in/photostream/
So I attempted to shorten the horizontal pipe from the output of the 90-degree elbow to the y-connection at the rear wall. I ended up with this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16270766758/in/photostream/
Note the 1/16-1/8" inch gap. The item with the bar code is a repair coupling. After priming and doping it, you slide it over the junction of the two pipes you are joining. Obviously, at the left end there is nothing for it to grab on to.
The repair coupling is 1.5" long. If it were, say, 1.0" I could probably cut back the pipe it's on enough to allow gluing an short extension - maybe with 1/2" visible onto the output of the 90-degree elbow. Then the coupling could slide over 1/2" of each pipe.
I'm horrible at cutting 1.5" PVC pipe with a hacksaw and getting square cuts, so what I just suggested would be a challenge for me.
Can anyone think of a different approach?
Thanks,
R1
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The stainless steel sink is dual bowl, with a garbage disposal (not shown) connected to the right drain.
These two photos show the layout of the plumbing: https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16272219299/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16458466225/in/photostream/
The center of the left bowl's drain was about 3/8" too close to the entrance to the p-trap. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/15836084224/in/photostream/
So I attempted to shorten the horizontal pipe from the output of the 90-degree elbow to the y-connection at the rear wall. I ended up with this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16270766758/in/photostream/
Note the 1/16-1/8" inch gap at the output of the elbow. The item with the bar code is a repair coupling. After priming and doping the pipes, you slide it over the junction of the two pipes being joined. Obviously, at the left end there is nothing for it to grab on to.
The repair coupling is 1.5" long. If it were, say, 1.0" I could probably cut back the pipe it's on enough to allow gluing an short extension - maybe with 1/2" visible - onto the output of the 90-degree elbow. Then the coupling could slide over 1/2" of each pipe.
I'm horrible at cutting 1.5" PVC pipe with a hacksaw and getting square cuts, so what I just suggested would be a challenge for me.
Can anyone think of a different approach?
Thanks,
R1
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wrote:

See above response.
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wrote:

<Snip> I knew you would be lost without my expertise! ;-)
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The stainless steel sink is dual bowl, with a garbage disposal (not shown) connected to the right drain.
These two photos show the layout of the plumbing: https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16272219299/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16458466225/in/photostream/
The center of the left bowl's drain was about 3/8" too close to the entrance to the p-trap. https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/15836084224/in/photostream/
So I attempted to shorten the horizontal pipe from the output of the 90-degree elbow to the y-connection at the rear wall. I ended up with this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/90278919@N00/16270766758/in/photostream/
Note the 1/16-1/8" inch gap at the output of the elbow. The item with the bar code is a repair coupling. After priming and doping the pipes, you slide it over the junction of the two pipes being joined. Obviously, at the left end there is nothing for it to grab on to.
The repair coupling is 1.5" long. If it were, say, 1.0" I could probably cut back the pipe it's on enough to allow gluing a short extension - maybe with 1/2" visible - onto the output of the 90-degree elbow. Then the coupling could slide over 1/2" of each pipe.
I'm horrible at cutting 1.5" PVC pipe with a hacksaw and getting square cuts, so what I just suggested would be a challenge for me.
Can anyone think of a different approach?
Thanks,
R1
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wrote:

See above response.
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wrote:

I think you are going to get a little better at cutting with a hack saw and cut the right end of the coupling off, flush with the elbow to it's right. That will leave you with a screwed up elbow.
To fix the elbow you will need a Socket Saver as shown here: (Amazon.com product link shortened)23253115&sr=8-1&keywords=socket+saver Just make sure you buy the correct diameter tool for your pipe size.
That tool will get you to where you can start over and get the length correct. If measure wrong again at least you won't have to buy the tool again. ;-(
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Rebel1 wrote:

Gap? Where?
Is the 1/16-1/8" gap you speak of that dark line between the pipe and the exit of the elbow?
If so it looks like you cut the pipe right there. Did you, and if yes, why on earth would you cut it there?
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
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On Friday, February 6, 2015 at 5:39:32 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Yes, that's the end of the pipe. But I don't understand what the problem is or why any exotic solution is needed. All he needs to do is:
Slide off the repair coupling
Cut the existing pipe shorter so it winds up going a bit less than half way into the repair coupling
Cut a new short piece of pipe that will go into the elbow and just short of half way into the repair coupling.
Glue it up.
The main objection seems to be cutting a piece of PVC straight? If that's a concern, just buy a PVC pipe cutter. They don't cost much and make quick straight cuts with a knife type blade set in jaws.
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trader_4 wrote:

You left out "get the end of the pipe he cut off of the elbow".
Why on earth the OP chose to make the saw cut there is a problem for the ages.
He'd probably find it cheaper to buy a new elbow than to purchase one of those "drill bits" mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
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On Saturday, February 7, 2015 at 11:55:19 AM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Which elbow? The only pipe I see glued in is the short piece that's glued into the elbow on the right. You have a short piece of pipe, apparently glued into the right elbow, that has the repair coupling slipped over it, but not glued. From what I see, all he has to do is pull the repair coupling off, then shorten that piece piece of pipe. Cut another short piece of PVC to fit between the other end of the repair coupling and the left hand elbow. Put it together and glue it.
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trader_4 wrote:

started this whole shenanigan. He sawed through that pipe right at that elbow, so the glued in length of that pipe was left in the elbow.
If I'm wrong about that tell me why and I'll apologize.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
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Trader,
Look at Rebel's 1st or 2nd pictures. Both pipes end in 90 deg fittings. The assemblies have been glued, I think. The left fitting does not align well with the p-trap. The pipe that is glued into the 90 deg fitting must be shortened and should not be glued until the OP is satisfied with the alignment. Hope this makes sense.
Dave M.
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<snip>

or maybe use a miter box ?
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