Well since electric heat was always near 100% efficent a new electric
resistance furnace wouldnt likely save you much money.
Thats going electric resistance to electric resistance.....
electric resistance to ANYTHING else will likely save you money!
I live in a duplex - one side is my office. The gas company charges, as I
recall, about $11.00/month just to be connected. I don't begrudge them
that - they have to read the meter, send out a bill, keep records - as
With about two hours work and a bit of pipe, I connected both halves of the
duplex to the same meter. It wasn't hard; the two water heaters sat on
opposite sides of a common wall. Simply poking a hole in the wall and
joining the gas supply lines together was relatively easy.
A call to the gas company to drop service one one side of the duplex
resulted in a savings of over $100/year.
Wait, there's more!
The remaining meter is the one servicing the "office" side of the duplex and
the bill is paid by a company check.
You're using the law to save money but the tax weasels will claim
your use of company utilities is compensation. The thought of how
much money and government resources to go after you for that would
boggle the mind.
No, the business charges me a modest amount for utilities (water also). Our
coporate tax attorney told me to forget about it inasmuch as it is way below
the de minimus rule, but I, being as righteous as a disciple, said "Render
unto Caesar..." and so forth.
You must have a magic electric stove. Mine takes at least 2 minutes before the
burner cools enough to not continue boiling over a pot.
As far as cost, that depends on your local rates. Some places pay 4 or more time
as much for electricity as others. Gas for heating is probably half the cost of
electric heating here, as determined by converting from electric to gas.
Perhaps I'm the magic element, since I have never had that issue on at
least a half dozen different electric ranges I have cooked extensively
Electric resistive heating, or electric heat pump? A heat pump is 3-4X
the efficiency of electric resistive heating. I drastically cut my
heating costs when I replaced electric resistive with electric heat
You are right about heat pumps. The capital costs are considerable, and
depending on your situation, the outdoor noise may be a problem with neighbors,
but they certain will compete with gas for energy cost if it's not too cold
where you live.
Well, noise isn't a consideration since there is an A/C condenser
outside anyway since much of the year is cooling season. The A/C or
heatpump condenser also faces my shop which is some 80' away from the
house. The next neighbor is another 100' or so and that side of their
house has no windows.
As for capital costs, I just installed this new 4T heat pump along with
matching air handler for a total cost of $3,750 which qualifies as
pretty damned cheap in my book. As for efficiency, my monitoring
indicates that it works well down to about 28F outdoor temp, and north
TX doesn't get a lot of days below 28F. It was also a good jump in
efficiency vs. the old A/C, so there is savings in the cooling months as
28F is really warm winter weather in much of the USA.
Where I live in Seattle, A/C is unnecessary for a well insulated house. Yes, it
gets warm inside several days a year but not bad if I vent it good in the
morning, and then close it up to keep out the heat.
Not N. TX. for the more northern locations with more cold days and
colder temps on those days, you just switch to a ground source heat pump
instead of an air source one. Here with few really cold days, the cost
of using the backup heat those days is minimal and the cost premium to
go ground source isn't worth it.
When I lived in CT, A/C wasn't needed much on a reasonably insulated,
shaded house, but a dehumidifier definitely was. Even here in TX, the
"neutral" month or so between heating and cooling seasons tends to need
a dehumidifier. I hate humid.
On May 15, 12:18οΏ½am, snipped-for-privacy@INVALID.com(Phil) wrote:
If cost is a issue try craiglist and just pick up a used gas range.
If you fear gas from the crack BANG description..............
You havent heard anything like the BANG caused by a electric stove
elements wire frying off. They can sound like a explosion.With lots of
sparks, your own mini fireworks display right in your own kitchen:(
converting to electric range will cost you a fortune, they draw high
current and you might need a new main panel and guaranteed new 240
Probably something shorted -- may well have been a failed light bulb --
and tripped the circuit breaker. Have you reset the breaker? Repair may be as
simple as replacing the oven lamp and resetting the breaker. Even if it's more
complicated than that, it's cheaper to repair than to replace.
Why would you even consider that? Gas is far superior to electric for cooking:
- it heats up faster
- it cools off faster
- you have much finer control over the temperature
- it's generally much cheaper to operate
"Cools off faster" may not seem at first like an important feature, but
consider what happens when a pot starts to boil over. With a gas range, you
turn the flame down, and the boilover subsides instantly. Problem over. With
an electric range, even if you turn the burner completely *off* it takes
several minutes to cool below the boiling point, during which time the pot
boils over anyway. The *only* way to stop a boilover on an electric range is
to grab the pot and move it to a different burner -- not something you really
want to do when boiling water is spilling over the top of it. Or consider what
happens when a sauce you're making gets a bit too hot. With a gas range, just
turn the heat down, no problem. With an electric range, again, you need to
move the pan to a different burner. If you're in the middle of preparing a big
meal and have all four burners in use, tough luck: you just burned your sauce.
Electric ranges suck.
For baking, it doesn't make much difference. Electric ovens and gas ovens cook
about the same.
If you've been cooking with a gas range for thirty-seven years, you're going
to absolutely *hate* using an electric one.
Correct on both counts.
You would need to call an electrician to run a completely new circuit.
There is no "convert" here. The existing circuit is either 15A or 20A, and
consists of two wires plus ground. An electric range will require a minimum of
30A, probably 40A, and maybe 50A, consisting of *three* wires plus ground --
which means the existing wiring *cannot* be used. Neither can the existing
Furthermore, a new 240V circuit will require two spaces in your electrical
panel, whereas the existing 120V circuit requires only one. You may or may not
have enough space available in the panel to do this.
Bottom line: you can buy a brand-new gas stove for less money than you'd spend
hiring an electrician [*] to install a new 40A 240V circuit to enable you to
use an electric stove -- which you'd still have to buy afterwards. You have
three options: repair the existing range, replace it with a new gas range, or
replace it with a new electric range. The last option is the most expensive,
and offers by far the worst cooking performance. I see no point in it at all.
[*] No offense intended, but the fact that you had to ask the questions you
asked shows that you don't have the knowledge required to safely install this
circuit yourself, thus the necessity of hiring it done.
Largely over hyped differences. I'm a pretty serious cook, and I have no
problem cooking on gas or electric. All it takes is the knowledge of the
differences between the two. Not really any different than adapting
between regular and convection ovens.
Not really, electric generally has significantly better controls, and
electric doesn't add moisture to the oven.
Yes, the existing electric is almost certainly not useable for an
The cost/effort to install a new circuit for an electric range can span
from trivial in a case like a ranch with an unfinished basement and the
kitchen in close proximity to a modern electrical panel with available
breaker spaces, to extreme in the case of finished spaces and the
electrical panel at the opposite end of the house from the kitchen.
While I think the cooking performance argument is over hyped, the fact
is that the cost difference between gas and electric ranges of
comparable quality is negligible, so the cost to install a new circuit
will make a new electric range the more expensive option, though if you
have ideal conditions the difference may be small. If you have less than
ideal conditions for running a new circuit, you can step up a couple
quality levels on a new gas range for what it will cost to install a new
circuit and buy a basic electric range.
Hardly. My electric oven has vastly better electronic controls and
maintains tighter temperature control.
Many who don't know how to cook. It is very easy to add moisture in an
electric oven for cooking tasks that will benefit from it. Conversely,
it is impossible to eliminate the moisture in a gas oven for cooking
tasks where it is a detriment.
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