Kitchen Plumbing - Am I Missing Anything?

I'm completly redoing my kitchen, including moving the sink. I have the drain issues figured out so I am looking at features. My plan so far:
Sink will probably be stainless single bowl 25X22 - might be able to fit in a double, but will depend on cabinet layout. Will have a new disposal. Probably a pull out faucet to eliminate the extra sprayer.
I want an undersink water filter - I have a mix of iron and copper pipe and get bad taste and yellow water at times. I want to mount it in the basement directly below the sink - will make filter changes much easier, and if it does leak, onto a tile/concrete floor 4' from a floor drain. My last one opened itself while doing some other plumbing - apparently the pressure changes from turning off the main loosened the cover.
Also thinking I will add an instant hot water tap for tea, coffee, etc. What is the advantage of the $300+ units vs. the $100 units?
On the cold side, I figure I will run copper to the filter location in the basement, install the filter, then run copper up under the sink. Inside the cabinet I will tee off a second line for the water heater. Both lines with shutoffs. Will also run the refrigerator line after the filter.
Hot water line straight to cabinet, then tee off for the dishwasher - again with individual shutoffs.
Am I missing anything to make life easier in the long run?
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single sink allows room to soak a broiler pan overnight. get deepest sink that fits with tallest spigot to wash deep containers.
microwave is a quick way to make hot water in a pyrex glass measuring cup. start microwave and by the time you have assembled your ingredients your water is reasy.
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You need a tiny little sink right next to the stove, with a high-necked faucet and-or a hose, for filling pots and as a place to dump flaming disasters. You need a normal sink for the sorts of things that normal people do, and you need a deep laundry-tub sort of sink for filling, emptying, marinating, dying, and icing things.
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Wow.
If I followed all that, I'd have no space left for counters in my smallish galley kitchen...
Banty
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Obviously then, you'll have to swap the kitchen and the livingroom.
More seriously, in that case, go with the deepest, widest, sink/tub you can get, and then have someone build you an array of inserts that fit into the sink like chafing dishes.
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IMO, the larger sing sink is much more practial than having two smaller sinks in the double.

I don' have the drain, but mounted the filter under the kitchen also. Sure makes life easier. You'll be glad you did it that way.

Sounds good to me.
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Why? (not questioning you, it's that I'm deciding the last kitchen remod questions myself, and this is one of them) Even though I will have a dishwasher (don't have now), it's been durn handy to be able to put dirty stuff in one bowl, rinse veggies, etc., in the other. However, all the double sink sizes don't allow me to center under the kitchen window in any decent layout with the semi-custom cabinetry. Simplest solution is to go with single-bowl sink. Since I'm a beleiver in the KISS princple, I'm leaning to single-bowl sink. Love to hear your thoughts on it...
Banty
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wrote in message

that's what i have, a 1/3-2/3 with the large side being extra deep. you can soak large pans in the large side, and there will be times that you will have to hand wash some things, and that's inconvenient with only a single sink.
regards, charlie http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
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wrote in message

I get more frustrated with the smaller size of the double sink because large items will not fit into it properly. Large pans, oven rack, etc, just cannot be soaked if need be. The 1/3 - 2/3 sinks may be a better option.
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And even better is the sink with a large basin for washing and a small one for the disposer.
--
Rich Greenberg Marietta, GA, USA richgr atsign panix.com + 1 770 321 6507
Eastern time. N6LRT I speak for myself & my dogs only. VM\'er since CP-67
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Which eventually turns into a smallish basin for washing and a basin that's too small for doing anything, and a waste of counter space.
[We hate ours.]
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
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I like most of your ideas, especially individual shutoffs. I just redid a kitchen and, based on that, would suggest the following: Pullout sprayers I've heard may be problematic, quickly dated, and more complex, and you may get lower flow and more leaks than a proper faucet and separate sprayer. Instant hot water is an excellent idea. Rather than a cold water filter, I would just use the top of the line hot water dispenser - I used the insinkerator - which includes a cartridge-changeable filter element. The top of the line has features I like, like quality filter, and true instant hot, absolutely no delay (the pipe empties each time). To save undersink tangles and crowding, I bought a fridge with an in-the-cabinet cold water dispenser. It has its own filter, cartridge style, that is located at the top inside of the fridge - very handy for good tasting drinking water. Good luck.

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I replaced my stainless steel sink about 6 months ago. I had one of the two bowl models, with one large bowl and one tiny bowl. The tiny one is supposed to be for the disposal, with the idea that you scrape off plates into there. However, my disposal was under the main bowl and the small bowl was just a useless waste of space. First, I usually just scrape off any plate material into the trash can, not the sink. And second, I want the disposal under the main bowl, as that is where I do prep work and wind up with vegetable peels, etc. With the disposal there, down they go!
So, I went with a Kohler Marsala cast iron model, which is one of the 2/3, 1/3 double bowl models. Additionally, it comes with a single hole faucet at the divider, and an optional second hole for either hot water dispenser, detergent dispenser, etc., in the extreme right corner. By only having two holes strategically placed, it allows the bowls to go back another couple inchs into what would be unused space at the back. It also has one very deep 2/3 bowl, and a less deep 1/3 bowl.
IMO, this sink is the ideal std size sink. You have a huge, deep bowl that can take just about any reasonable kitchen item. Being deep, it works extremely well with a spray faucet, allowing you to use the sprayer without blow back. I wasn't even thinking about this when I went with the deeper sink. But, what a difference. Previously, I had always used the sprayer gingerly, because water would easily blow back on you. And the 1/3 bowl, by virute of the fact that it goes way back, is big enough to be useful. It's excellent for placing a collander for example. And having it available as a backup is great. For example, you could have the main one dirty with dishs, scraps from prepping, etc, and suddenly you need to do something, like the collander, in a clean sink, so you have it waiting. The sink also has the drains moved near the back of the sink, where they should be, so that you have more useable space on the bottom of the sink closer to you. And by keeping smaller things to the front, there is less chance of them falling into the disposal than if the drain were in the center.
I also love switching from stainless to cast iron. The white makes the sink so much brighter and appealing to work over. It's even easier to see vegetables you may be working on against the white background, instead of the metal look. Plus, its quieter with the garbage disposal running.
Regarding the discussion of centering the sink in the window, also keep in mind that the faucet plays a visible role too. For example, if you can center the faucet in the window with a particular sink, or come close to center, then having the sink off an inch or so one way or the other may be fine. My sink is not centered, its over an inch to the left of center. With the Marsala being 2/3, 1/3, the faucet winds up right of center in the sink. So, with the sink to the left, the faucet to the right, the net result is the faucet is just a little to the right of center in the window and the whole thing looks great.
I'd get some templates of sinks that are available on the web and make some cardboard cutouts. That's what I did and it;s the best way to figure out how the whole thing will look against the window, etc, before buying it.
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You might want to reconsider this. When I'm washing pots & pans, I often shove the faucet off to the side with the back of my hand while scrubbing a pot, and then pull it back to the middle to rinse. The natural place to shove the faucet is far out from the base, not at the middle. There's more leverage that way. With a pullout faucet, I suspect the end will get knocked out of its holder constantly. And, shoving the faucet closer to the base might become difficult as minerals build up inside and the whole thing gets harder to move over time.
Maybe something to think about, if you use a faucet this way.
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Centering under the window is the limitation. Right now the plan calls for a 27" sink base, so it would be tough to do anything else. Depending on how the load bearing wall is removed and the support for it, it might be possible to gain a few inches on either side. I would do a 75/25 (or whatever ratio), not a 50/50.
Just saw an interesting faucet at Costco. Pullout but mounts in the corner of the sink. $70, including a built in soap dispenser. Don't remember the brand. Any opinions on this setup?
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says...

How important is it to center the sink under the window?
BTW, I have a 1/3, 2/3 double sink now, like it. I'm thinking, though, if I get a deep single bowl, I can provide the "double" part of it with a separate bin if needed.
Banty
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It looks pretty complete.
Was that filter that blew up an Omni whole house and about 9 years old? I ask because I had the top blow off mine recently. Thankfully we were home to hear it running.
Colbyt
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Filter might have been an Omni. It's probably been 3 years since I removed it and had probably been there 3 or 4. I was a whole house with a clear globe.
I was replacing a washer in the outside faucet which turned into a major hassle with ancient valves. All the off/on of the main caused it to loosen up.
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Well there allot of replies about the sink to buy. Now hear is something to check your waste elevation, some of the newer sinks are deeper about 10 1/2" compared to 6 1/2". Most cases it works out , so if your going with a deeper sink lower the trap adaptor accordingly. As for running the water supplies as long as you get A to A and B to B everything should work.

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