Kenmore (whirlpool) dryer problem

[Sparky]

Howdy folks, hopefully a dryer guru can help me out here.

I have a Kenmore (whirlpool) electric dryer, and when I hit the "start" button on any setting, the drum will not rotate and the element does not heat up.

I tested continuity on the starter switch, and it's OK (plus, it starts the timer). I checked for juice, and there is power to the motor and the element.

I figured there is some sort of switch on the motor that is preventing it from starting, but I'm at a loss as to why I'd have juice going to the element but no heat.

It's a model #C66912691 Type # 138-00 if that helps any.

Any information on what to check would be greatly appreciated.

TIA Sparky

[Appliance Repair Aid]

"start"

preventing

Hi,

I got 110.66912691 to come up for me.

Be glad the heat will not work without the motor running! The heat will not come one without the motor running.

How did you check?

rotate

Dead with no sounds...right? A copy:

Q - My dryer is dead, what could do that ?

A - Common problems...blown house fuse/tripped breaker ( electric dryers need 2 )...loose white/neutral wire...broken belt ( on some models only )...door switch/door switch bracket...*thermal fuse open ( venting needs attention )...broken or burnt wire...timer...motor...burnt power cord/plug...start switch ( especially the ones with a built in relay switch )

• If you find a blown thermal fuse, always clean, change, adjust the venting system and vent hood first

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Sparky]

Multimeter. I wanted to make sure power was getting from the switch to the timer to the rest of the unit, so I followed the wires.

...door switch/door switch bracket...*thermal fuse open (

Interesting, I'll check the fuses and the switches once I figure out where they all are in this dryer.

Thanks Sparky

[Ed]

Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel. Look for a white plastic part near and to the left of the vent outlet, it has two wires on it. Check this for continuity. On the heater can, near the top, there is usually a device on the left side with two wires on it. Check this for continuty. Your have now tested both thermal fuses.

[Sparky]

Where the heating element is, there's 3 devices along there. The first one is just where the heating element gets it's power from. Second in line is what looks to be a thermostat, and finally, there's some other device which I can't identify - that's probably the fuse you speak of.

Is there any switches or anything around the motor that I should check?

Sparky

[Ed]

"Sparky" wrote

The top one is the fuse, the one at the bottom is the high limit thermostat. There is also a thermostat (or two) near the white plastic fuse. All should show continuity on your ohmmeter.

The motor switch itself makes a circuit to the heater, there is also a circuit through the timer. These are not usually problems but can be, especially the timer with Kenmore brand Whirlpools. If you are not getting

240 volts at the heater terminals any of these could be the source of your problem. The wiring diagram will show you which circuits to test on the timer.

Did you test the heater element? Pull one of the wires off and check for continuity across the terminals with your ohmmeter.

Did you test for 240 volts at the plug receptacle on the wall? If you have

240v, then unplug the dryer and follow the cord to the terminal block on the back of the dryer. Lots of times a wire burns off the block and will cause the dryer not to heat. The dryer will run on 120 volts but it will not heat.

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

On the fan blower housing is the thermal fuse....

fuse, disposable, on exhaust duct.

Check that for continuity.

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid