Kenmore Electric Range - Oven & Burners Not Working - Repair Guide

This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on our Kenmore electric range stopped working.
I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were still working on the oven control unit.
I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the range started working properly again.
I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with their range.
Here's the photo album - http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you begin! Good luck.
Cheers, Paul Michaels Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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Thanks for the web page and photos. Many repairs are something simple, as you have found. Very well done, sir.
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Christopher A. Young
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* Probably the big plug was dirty. You cleaned it, and now it can flow electric. * I don't like Sears. I used to work for them, and didn't like what I saw. I also don't like the way they make off-spec parts. Sears products often can't use the usual repair parts by the brands that made the whatever.
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Christopher A. Young
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http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
You did a very fine job on the site. It is an excellent guide for determining the locations to look for loose or open connections. I only have one problem, you never found the smoking gun. If you don't find the definitive cause and repair it, you can bet it will return. Your pictures are very clear, and make it apparent where the problem is. The problem is inside the 50 amp range receptacle, which is what caused the burn on the prong of the male cord set. At this point, the internal, non serviceable connection of that part of the outlet is still bad, and unless you replace the outlet, you can bet the problem will reoccur
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I agree. It appears that there was no other apparent evidence to suggest that the problem was anywhere else but in the receptacle. I think that replacing the receptacle will be good for the long term. Incidentally I noticed that there was no connector or bushing on the opening where the cord enters the stove. You should have a connector there to provide strain relief and more importantly to shield the cord from sharp metal edges.
I applaud you on your thoroughness and safety concerns during the process and I thank you for taking the time to take pictures so that others may learn from your experience.
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Thanks for the link and good info. I will put this in my list. Great job. Posted from the Free Home Improvement Forum at http://www.spicyhome.com
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