Kenmore Electric Dryers == JUNK???

[mikegi]

In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model #110-66912690), purchased in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the heating element. A few months later the dryer wouldn't work at all, possibly due to a door switch or some other problem. We decided to buy an new one rather than have another expensive repair. We decided to buy the exact same model figuring that the old one falling apart was just a fluke.

Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer suddenly stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat at all. Now, I have to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model failed as soon after the warranty as you could reasonably expect: 4 months. It must be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime tuned so well to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...

I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating element with a ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that means the element isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker, checked the ducts, no luck. So, it must be some other piece of the puzzle.

Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this particular model?

Thanks, Mike

PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they said someone would get back to me in 48 hours. Another misrepresentation from my friends at Sears. I guess the thousands of dollars I've spent there on appliances means nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to avoid Sears at all cost.

[Pop]

If that Sears is local to you, I'd submit a complaint to the BBB. No, they don't make the product, but --- they decide to sell it. Or not.

HTH

[DanG]

I'm sorry you are having problems with Sears Kenmore appliances. I have always had good luck with the Kenmores, they are made by Whirlpool. A dryer is a fairly simple piece of equipment to keep operating, but then I do my own fixing. A heating element is about $20-30. A repair book is about $10 and comes complete with pictures and is laid out so it is easy to follow. If you're fairly sure that the element is not hurt, another common culprit is the door switch. You might also double check the breakers. sometimes one leg will trip. To be sure, turn the breaker(s) completely off and back on and/or use your tester to make sure you have 110 on each leg.

You can do all the diagnosing on the internet if you like:

There is one of these fellows who frequents this newsgroup and hopefully he will respond. Hope you get it running soon, nothing upsets a household like an unhappy woman fighting with an appliance.

:-) You do know that women have smaller feet than men and wear white at the wedding.

Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model failed as soon after

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Many are, but not all. Frigidaire also makes some for Sears. Probably a couple of others too.

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

There isn't any....Kenmore is made by other manufactures for Sears.

110.######## is a Whirlpool built Kenmore.

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating ?

A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:

- house fuse or breaker ( needs 2! )... - heating element ... - burnt wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power cord/plug ...

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[No]

I have been BURNED by SEARS more than once. I will never buy any of their store brand things again. Kenmore Craftsman Easy Living and I'm sure others.

[Mike O'Donnell]

I've got a Kenmore electric dryer (110.xxxx model) that we've had for 17 years. During that time I've put in about $50 worth of parts (belts, seals, rollers) it's running as good as new. There's a lot of info on the web on dryer repair. As someone else posted, this model is basically a Whirpool unit; they're pretty common and there's not a whole lot to them. Sears's parts web site gives some pretty decent diagrams and part lists, too.

Incidentally, the washer I purchased at the same time is working fine, too. When they finally quit, Kenmore will be high on my list for a replacement.

- Mike O.

[mikegi]

I appreciate the posts and suggestions. After reading some of the online repair websites, I checked the thermostats on the heating element can. The high temp cut off was an open circuit (#3977394). I bought a replacement kit at Fox Appliance in Doraville, GA for $25 and installed it yesterday. Dryer appears to be working again.

The guy at Fox said to replace both the open-circuited part and the lower-temp thermostat (both pieces were in the $25 kit). He said that the low-temp part should have cut in before the high-temp part. I assume that one of two things happened:

1) The low-temp part was defective and the dryer overheated until it triggered the high-temp cut off thermostat.

2) The high-temp cut off thermostat was defective and triggered at a much lower temperature than it should have.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? #1 concerns me as it would mean that a true overheat occured and I need to know why. #2 is a simple manufacturing defect.

Thanks, Mike

[nospambob]