Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 11066512694


Here’s my tale: the heating element comes on after Start button is pressed; all coils (5) come up to full heat and then after 4 or 5 seconds coils stop heating; the dryer continues to run. The power goes into the elements through what Sears calls a “high limit” thermostat. I disconnected that thermostat and connected the feeds directly to the 2 heating element posts. Thnen when you set timer and turn dryer on the elements come on and stay on.
So it may be as simple and very inexpensive (!5.00) t just o get high level thermostat. But is it also probable that the main control/timer unit is defective and is shutting down the power to the element. Maybe I have to also buy the main control unit ($89.00) in addition to the thermo. One Sears person said the main control/timer unit is not returnable another said it is. At this point I haven’t decided what to do.
So does anyone have an idea if there are other problems that might be causing the heater to go off after a few seconds or is it probably just the thermostat or just the main control. A Sears service call now is $129.00 plus plus. My wife is hoping I can’t bring it back to lie as she loves the teal and red olored dryer AND washer set. Save me..............please. Thanks.
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<DIV dir=ltr> <DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <DIV><FONT size=4>Here’s my tale:&nbsp; the heating element comes on after Start button is pressed;&nbsp; all coils (5) come up to full heat and then after 4 or 5 seconds coils stop heating;&nbsp;&nbsp; the dryer continues to run. The power goes into the elements through&nbsp; what Sears calls a “high limit” thermostat.&nbsp; I disconnected that thermostat and connected the feeds directly to the 2 heating element posts.&nbsp; Thnen when you set timer and turn dryer on the&nbsp; elements come on and stay on.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>So it may be as simple and very inexpensive (!5.00) t just o get high level thermostat.&nbsp; But is it also probable that the main control/timer unit is defective and is&nbsp; shutting down the power to the element.&nbsp; Maybe I&nbsp; have to also buy the main control unit&nbsp; ($89.00) in addition to the thermo.&nbsp;&nbsp; One Sears person said the main control/timer unit is not returnable another said it is.&nbsp; At this point I haven’t decided what to do.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>So does anyone have an idea if&nbsp; there are other&nbsp; problems that might be causing the heater to go off after a few seconds or is it probably just the thermostat or just the main control.&nbsp; A Sears service call now is $129.00 plus plus. My wife is hoping&nbsp; I can’t bring it back to lie as she loves the teal and red olored dryer AND washer set.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Save me..............please.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks. </FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=5 face=Tahoma></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=5 face=Tahoma></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=5 face=Tahoma>The "high limit" thermostat is just a safety. It will open the circuit only if the elements over heat. Your problem is elsewhere. It could be any number of things including insufficient air flow, or a problem with whatever they use for an operating thermostat. </FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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On 2/20/2011 2:04 PM, John wrote:

If you were to test the high limit thermostat, you would jumper across it or remove the two connectors and connect them together. If that cures it then the high limit is bad. Don't keep using it without that safety limit in place and working!
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On Feb 20, 6:11pm, "Stormin Mormon"

I would try replacing the high limit switch since jumping it out gets you constant heat.....
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Problem update: The dryer and vents are 100 % clean and there are no blockages. I reconnected the high limit thermostat to the heating element and then disconnected the main control timer feed. put a few wet towels in the dryer, turned the timer dial arbitrarily to the ten minute mark so that a connection would be completed when the start button was pushed. Pushed start button and the result was that the dryer came on heating along with the heat element and staryed on. I let it run for 30 minutes and no problems. For the moment it is necessary to manually open the door to shit the dryer down as the cimer is now disconnected. So I plan to order the main control part on the assumption that there is something defective in the current clock that is shutting the heat elemment down. My temporary fix works but is there anything I might be overlooking. Once the new part is installed we'll know for sure of course. Comments? Thanks for the input.
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I would try replacing the high limit switch since jumping it out gets you constant heat.....
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On 2/20/2011 11:04, John wrote:

Ensure that the door is tightly closed and that the door seals, as well as the felt seals around the perimeter of the drum, are good. If air is drawn in from paths other than the heating coil plenum, the high limit thermostat will kick in to prevent a fire.
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