Keeping car electronics alive while changing battery - homebrew approach?

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chaniarts wrote:

What are they?
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Tony wrote:

4runner and 2 vettes, although the vettes also have an unswitched pair of bare wires in the glove box. they're pretty tiny wires and are only rated for a few watts. used for cell phones or cb radios.
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On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:38:26 -0700, "chaniarts"

unswitched "dc power outlet".
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re: "Most don't turn off the cigar lighter"
Some do...some don't. Can't say if it's "most" or not.
The wife's 2005 Taurus doesn't, my 2004 Odyssey does. There are pros and cons for both.
My Dodge conversion van used to turn off the "Automotive Power Port" in the dash, but not the one in the "way back".
When I added another one in the passenger area, I made sure it stay powered on all the time.
What I'd like to see...and maybe they have them...is this:
A set-up where I can push a button once the car is started so that the Power Port will stay "ON" after the car is shut off, but default to shutting "OFF" with the car if I don't push the button. An extra bonus would be to be able to turn the Power Port on without starting the car, but would still default to shutting "OFF" with the car once it was started and then shut off, assuming I didn't press the button again.
That way I can decide if I want the Power Port energized with the car off, but I wouldn't be in danger of killing the battery if I accidentally left something on. When we had the Conversion van, the kid's would sometimes leave something powered on and kill the battery. It would be nice to prevent that, but still be able to *choose* to run something with the car off.
(The Traction Control in my Honda can be turned "OFF" once the car is running, but defaults to turning to "ON" every time the van is started. I'd like similar logic for the Power Port where I can override the default, but still have it default to "safe mode" if I don't take any action.)
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wrote:

Keep in mind that when you start a car, the voltage can dip to 8-10 V under heavy load. So a 9V battery proly could do the job, as long as there wasn't much current drain on it.
I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in series would work as well. Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.
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wrote:

Better yet get the codes. You can get it from either a dealer (w/ a copy of title or other proof), or radio manufacturer with a sales receipt. If codes are unavailable, seriously consider dumping the unit It is an accident waiting to happen.
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On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:11:58 -0500, AZ Nomad

The codes will get the radio working, if it needs codes, but it won't restore the radio pre-sets. Some radios have 20 of those.

I would wait until the accident happened.
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On 3/25/2010 6:49 PM Existential Angst spake thus:

Any of the above will work. You certainly don't need 14.0 +/- 0.25V.
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On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:49:20 -0400, "Existential Angst"
[snip]

IIRC, they're 4 F cells (an F cell is as big around as a D cell, but about 40% taller). They should allow a higher discharge rate. There are also 12V lantern batteries (8 F cells).
BTW, I have no idea what happened to E.

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Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries. The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.
Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what happened to B, or E cells.
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On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power their plate circuits (B+).
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wrote:

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wrote:

They're still sold. Everready 22.5 and 45 volt B batteries. Some analog meters still use 22.5v B batteries for their ohms function.
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Jim Yanik wrote:

And I still have my antique portable radio that took 2 45v cells in series, but it was cheaper to use 10 9volt batteries in series. I don't think the 45 volt cells they make now come in alkaline flavor so they don't last very long.
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errrrr. . . don't most Dell products still use vacuum tubes?
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Just because they suck doesn't mean there is a tube around the vacuum.
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Nonny wrote:

Most all home pc's used vacuum tubes until the last 5 or so years ago when they came out with LCD video monitors. They used one big vacuum tube, also known as a picture tube.
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On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

keep alive. Connect one to a cig ligther plug, with a diode to keep the 12 volts from hitting the 9 volt battery, plug it into the lighter socket, close the door, and change the battery. 7 volts is more than enough to maintain the memory.
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With all the new computer/electronics surveillance crap in cars, these days, why would you want to keep memory alive. Hell, I'd think unhooking the battery for a day about once a week would be more in order. ;)
nb
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I imagine the spy circuits use flash memory.
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