Jennair Oven only putting out 115 V

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On 9/7/2015 10:58 PM, taxed and spent wrote:

The generations do change. Now days 12 year olds can reprogram smart phones. Don't ask em to run a chainsaw, or build a log cabin or safely shoot a gun.
I'm in a bit of transition generation. I have done a few small computer things. And, I can run a chain saw. Smart phone? Never used one. One friend gave me a sixty second lesson, but not sure I could use one to make a call.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.com wrote:

Regardless you should pull the oven away from wall(hope it is not built-in one. If you're not familiar with this stuff, call an appliance tech or even a handyman(master of none, jack of all type) will take care of it.
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On 9/7/2015 5:16 PM, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.com wrote:

Did you *carefully* observe (sound, feel) the action of the breaker when you reset it? I.e., are you sure that it (or half of it) didn't trip as soon as it was reengaged? That would indicate a persistent problem...

"Hopefully"... :>
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wrote:

I know a tile guy and a plumber who works on gas dryers, each who could probably handle it well.
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On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 8:16:32 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.com wrote:

just to make sure we are all on the "same page"
the "breaker" is actually 2 breakers with their handles tied together and you switched them both together off and on...
correct?
Mark
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On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 2:07:11 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

the "breaker" is a double breaker with a single throw switch. I believe it would be a 2 pole single throw breaker. It's a SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC - SQUARE D Double Pole 40 Amp QO Plug-On Circuit Breaker.
Simple enough.
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On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.c om wrote:

emp.

lling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

taking out one leg of the 240V?

The Parts Diagram http://www.partselect.ca/PS135497-Maytag-8028P003-60-BOX- BREAKER.htm?SourceCode=3&SearchTerm28P003-60 shows a "Breaker Box" p art # 8028P003-60. Is this breaker built into the over assembly somewhere? It's a built in unit, so not a simple case of pulling it out and looking at the back.
If this is an integral breaker box, I should be able to reset the breaker o n the oven.
Ian
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On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 3:16:01 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.c om wrote:
.com wrote:

temp.

pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.

wn taking out one leg of the 240V?

X-BREAKER.htm?SourceCode=3&SearchTerm28P003-60 shows a "Breaker Box" part # 8028P003-60. Is this breaker built into the over assembly somewher e? It's a built in unit, so not a simple case of pulling it out and lookin g at the back.

on the oven.

Time to back up. In the beginning you said you were measuring 115V from one leg to ground and nothing on the other leg to ground. I think we all took this to mean that you were measuring at the actual cable where it connects to the oven. If so, then any breaker in the oven itself is irrelevant. If you're not measuring there, then where are you measuring? If you're measuring at some internal point inside the oven, then it's not clear what you're really measuring to me.
Obvious places to measure are at the breaker in the circuit panel and at the oven where it connects to the cable. You should have 115V from either leg to ground or neutral and 230V between legs.
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On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 11:35:39 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.com wrote:

I am measuring at the wires that connect to the element.
I have 115V from one wire to ground. And zero from other wire to ground.
I suppose an easy check would be to measure same at broiler element. If same result, probably in the service to the over and need to deal with breaker or wiring.
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On 9/9/2015 1:43 PM, snipped-for-privacy@sherwoodwindows.com wrote:

You really need to look at a wiring diagram of the stove to understand what you *should* be seeing at a particular point in the circuit OTHER THAN the line input!
You could have a stove that uses 110V elements and powers half of them from *one* "leg" (of the 220V line) with the other half of them powered off the other leg.
Or, 220V elements powered by the two legs (in which case, you'd NEVER see "zero" on either connector!).
Or, a hybrid approach that puts 110V (from one leg or the other) on the element for "low" heat and 220V (from the *other* leg in lieu of ground) for "high" heat.
The fact that you are probing the connections while it is live (and the element SHOULD be hot!) is disturbing. I don't think the Darwin Awards will be revealed for many months, still...
Unplug the stove. Remove the suspected element(s). Check with an *ohmmeter* to see if there's an "open" or they have developed a high resistance.

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