I have what's labled "all-purpose very fine 220 grit sandpaper" in my
Can you please tell me if I should use this to sand an alder wooden
table before painting it?
The table is en route. I've only seen it online. It's a kit that I
bought which needs to be put together, so I am guessing it's already
I sleep during the day and I'm starting to get drousy now, so I don't
think that I'll be able to make it to the hardware store and the
hardware store is a little Mop & Pop shop whose hours change depending
upon their moods and not by what the sign on the door says. And the
table should arrive Thursday or Friday, so when by the time I go down
to the package room to get it, the hardware store will probably be
closed for the day. So I am hoping someone can tell me whether or not
the sandpaper I have is the right one?
Also, if it is the right one, is there a different tectured one which
would work even better?
Please correct me if I'm wrong: I won't need to first sand with medium-
grain sandpaper seeing that the table must already be somewhat smooth
since it's coming from a furniture seller (it's a table that cabinet
makers and dot.com businesses buy (they don't make it themselves) and
then sell to the public.
I just read below that and in smaller letters it says "For light
sanding between stain and sealer." I would feel more comfortable with
a finer sandpaper. It feels rough to the touch and is making me
nervous (like I could do damage if I go too fast and if I go too slow
it will take all day and it won't come out right (like I might make an
You're really just trying to knock down edges and do touch up
sanding. There's no risk of sanding a hollow into the table by hand
as you're not trying to remove dings and such. Since you're painting
it, and you _have_ to use a primer and two coats of paint, you won't
be able to see any sanding marks at all. Fear not.
Sanding dust gets everywhere so sand outdoors, or if you absolutely
have to sand indoors, close off the room, put a fan in the window
blowing _out_, and sand close to the window. After you're done
sanding, vacuum the room while it's still closed up with the fan
running. Then leave the fan running for an hour or so.
on 8/16/2007 8:38 AM Chris Tsao said the following:
Better yet, use a 'tack cloth', that is specifically made for removing
dust from woodworks.
Basically, it is a piece of cheesecloth that is impregnated with varnish
and is almost dry, but tacky to the touch.
It can be bought in craft stores, or make your own. Store in a airtight
plastic bag to prevent drying out between uses.
1. Run your hand over the surface. Does it feel rough (probably not)?
If yes, lightly sand smooth with your #220 and brush off the dust.
You really don't need a tack rag and you don't want to use water.
2. Paint with primer. Repeat #1 after primer dries completely.
3. Top coat. Repeat #1 after top coat is dry enough.
4. Top coat again.
Unless you are trying for a flawless, high gloss paint finish (not
likely possible for you at this stage of experience) the above is
*ALL* you need do. Don't over-engineer the job..
Thank you. Just one thing. By "Repeat #1 after primer dries
completely," you mean I should sand again after I put on the first
coat of primer. That would mean, I (1) sand, (2) apply 1st coat of
primer and (3) sand a second time, and (4) apply on a second coat of
I read your post after I got back from the hardware store, so I bought
two tack cloths.
Yes. Just lightly, by hand, to knock down any nibs caused by dust
etc. You only need one coat of primer, two (probably) of the top
Ideally, the primer coat would be thoroughly sanded to perfect
smoothness and flatness, removing any brush marks in the process.
That is ideal because it provides a perfect surface for the top
coat(s) and - if the top coat(s) are applied and flow properly you'd
wind up with a very good finish. Not perfect but very good.
Unfortunately, primers that sand well are not generally
available...those generaly available are soft and clog the paper.
That can be improved by wet sanding but they are still a pain.
Additionally, most people are using latex/acrylic "enamel" these days
for top coats and that simply doesn't flow well...even if the primer
were baby butt smooth the top coat wouldn't be. Oil based enamel is a
BTW, you didn't mention the sheen of the paint. One's first impulse
is generally to use glossy but I wouldn't as it will show every
imperfection. Additionally, if it is acrylic/latex, things set on it
will stick to it even though it seems dry. Ultimately, that
stick-to-it characteristic will pass but it can take weeks/months.
Semi-gloss would be a better choice. Maybe even egg shell. Probably
not flat, too hard to keep clean but it is very forgiving of
No. Sand, primer, sand, top coat, sand, top coat. Keep in mind that
the sanding of primer/paint is just to knock off nibs. That isn't
going to give you a great paint job but at your current level of
experience - and without spray equipment - it is about the best you
can do and you will probably be happy with it.
Thanx. I got semi glossy (green). Okie doke, I will put two coats of
primer on. The table didn't come wrapped. So all the wood clanged
together and it has dents and scratches. I guess it's a good thing,
because now I don't have to be anal about it. It's a tea table that I
will be taking from room to room.
Really, it's hard to say without seeing (feeling) the table. Carefully
inspect the table for defects. Moving furniture often results in
dents, scrapes and gouges which should not be corrected with
Use 220 grit and a sanding block. Be extra careful about edges and
moldings. A tack rag is a good thing to have. Use a oil primer
especially formulated for bare wood and follow the directions
carefully. Use a work (trouble) light to inspect the surface. Don't
rush the job!!!
Thanx. It came yesterday. FedEx took a week to deliver!!!!!!!!! It was
rather rough. The instructions said to sand it. I finished sanding it.
It rained last night and this morning, so I had to sand it underneath
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