This reminds me of the National Mechanical Code, which is said to
prohibit circulating conditioned air at more than 120 F in wooden
stud spaces. I presume the excuse was the danger of fire, and the
code committee creatures who wrote this sell fireproof materials.
A few of the few dozen wood solar attics in Soldiers Grove WI were
lined with drywall after the state declared them "plenums," until
pharmacist Don Stebbins refused to do so, saying the theoretical
graph they were using for the time it takes wood to catch fire was
in degrees C vs F, and the time scale was log vs linear. At this
point the state creatures cravenly slunk away without reimbusing
the injured parties. There have been no fires in 27 years.
Good thing the code creatures didn't see that part :-)
You would not want to do that.
The humidity in your home would get to the point where surfaces would start
However, there is nothing wrong with adding more vent pipe (inside your
home) but still vent it outside.
I would however use hard pipe,not flex. The flex pipe is not smooth enough
on the inside and restricts airflow.
Something like a large radiator.
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 19:52:57 GMT, "Merlin-7 KI4ILB"
Only if you were using the dryer all the time. The usual intermitant
use of a home dryer would produce an amount of moisture that would be
quickly absorbed by the rest of the house, just like when someone
takes a shower without a bathroom vent.
But I would say that the main problem with indoor dryer venting is
that it is next to impossible to filter out the lint. Even the
commercial devices designed to do this are inadequate. Lint
accumulation can be anything from a nuisance to a fire hazard.
I'm Sorry, I should have given the entire name. International
Mechanical Code section of the International RESIDENTIAL building Code.
The fact that you have found installations that violate current code
is not surprising. The code is constantly changing, getting better.
The code is there to PROTECT people and property. Also, people
constantly violate codes, the same as people often commit crimes.
Sometimes people get away with it. That dos not make it a good idea.
Please note that not all inspectors are equal to the task.
Sometimes someone does something that damages property or hurts people
that is not covered by code. The code bodies then look at updating
code to cover new problems. The changes are not instant, but they do
come. The international codes cover both residential and commercial
installations. Obviously you did not do enough research. Buy a full
copy of each book you wish to quote like I did. Your passages are
taken out of context. I did not quote all passages and sections,
because my copy is printed and I did not want to type that much.
Go read the whole thing. I quoted you chapter & verse, but I guess you
just like to argue.
Please excuse the not cutting anything much, but the codes also say that a
standard toggle switch, like a light switch, cannot serve as a electrical
disconnect for a furnace. Do that and you won't pass the inspection....
Wow. Can we install the damper backwards, after an open T in the house?
And if the guy who dries his clothes by the woodstove loosely stacked in
laundry baskets were to bring his electric dryer back out of the rain into
the house and put it near the woodstove and stack the clothes loosely inside,
with no power applied, would he have to comply with section 504.4?
What if he turned on the tumbler motor without the electric heating elements?
Or put his clothes in a closet with a $12 heater and a humidistat?
Do the International Mechanical Code police often visit houses?
Are they something like The Spanish Inquisition?
You're telling me I can obtain a residential clothes dryer from Sears
that is configured by the manufacturer (or with a factory-made
accessory) to vent the gas exhaust separately from the "other" exhaust?
I want one. Model number please. All I could find was dryers which
allowed a choice of where to run the single exhaust pipe (back, side,
Fact is, there's no proof is doesn't backdraft through the non-working
equipment. Air follows the path of least resistance, like the breeze
through Nicks skull. commercial places I used to work at kept the doors
open nearly year around...
First, do not consider this for a gas dryer. Second I don't suggest it
for an electric due to problems that have been reported, including: too much
interior moister build up, dust - lint, odor, reduced dryer efficiency due
to clogged filters or recycling moist air back to the dryer.
This question comes up often and one of the answers is *NO* if it's a
gas dryer. Gas ovens/stove tops 'vent' into the house. What's the
difference in the fumes from 3 hours of turkey roasting or some time
drying clothes with each appliance venting into the house? I know the
turkey smells better... Fumes is Fumes. Bake a cake for for an hour (or
whatever) or dry clothes for an hour?
I'm not saying that venting the gas fired dryer into the house is a good
thing, I just want to understand the rational of those who say don't do
I've noticed the clothes will dry faster on less humid days than when it is
raining. So I suppose if you were to vent the dryer into the house, the
dryer intake air would be very humid and the dryer would have a difficult
time drying the clothes.
Basically you would be recirculating the moisture; out the dryer, then back
That's true outdoors, especially when it is raining :-)
I don't think so.
The drying rate should be proportional to the difference between the vapor
pressure at 100% RH at the dryer temp, say 130 F with Ps = 4.53" Hg, and
the vapor pressure of house air, eg Pa = 0.299 for 70 F at 40% RH or 0.449
at 60% or 0.748 at 100%, which is much smaller, so the house RH should make
little difference in drying time. Clothes that dry in 20 minutes at 40% RH
with Ps-Pa = 4.23 might dry in 20x4.23/(4.53-0.449) = 21 minutes at 60%.
OTOH, they might dry in 20x4.23/(0.748-0.299) = 188 minutes (3.1 hours) in
70 F air at 40% RH and 20x4.23/(0.748-0.449) = 283 minutes (4.7 hours) in
70 F air at 60% RH, with the help of a fan. At 100%, they would never dry,
They might dry in 2 hours (120 minutes) in a house with 70 F air at 60% RH
if 120 = 20x4.23/(Ps-0.449), so Ps = 1.204 "Hg = e^(17.863-9621/(460+T)),
which makes T = 84 F, with a Holmes HFH111 1500W compact heater fan ($12.88
at Wal-Mart) set to 84 F in a closet, in series with a humidistat that turns
it off when the closet RH drops to 60%.
I had a natural gas dryer and vented inside the home. We installed a
box with a flap in it to direct the exhaust outdoors or indoors. The
indoors hole had a fine lint filter (similar to a nylon stocking),
there was no lint coming out. I don't think there are any significant
byproducts of natural gas combustion. There certainly was no odors or
anything. I mean, it should be the same as a natural gas stove/range,
and those are obviously not vented.
That is essentially the main point.
Damp, dusty lukewarm air is a commodity that you really don't want
inside your house. That's why it is traditionally vented outside the
house. Some people have tried heat recovery products, but think
about it... How many hours does your dryer operate each week.
Probably not too many.
If it is a gas dryer, venting it indoors could kill you. The
products of combustion are CO (Carbon Monoxide) and CO2 (Carbon
Dioxide). The first is a deadly poison caused by inefficient
combustion (not enough Oxygen). Carbon Dioxide can also kill you if
there are large quantities. Although not a poisonous gas, people have
died because their was too much CO2 in the house, displacing the
Oxygen which is essential to respiration. (See the Movie Apollo 13
for more info).
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