Is there an easier way to fix a crack in a large PVC pipe?

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I found a leak in my sprinkler line - I thought I was done, then as soon as I fixed one leak, the one downstream gets enough pressure and bust out.
The line is 1-1/4" PVC sch 40 line, when I locate and bug up the leak I usually dig a hole say 12" in diameter 8" deep so I have room to work with. I cut a short section of the pipe out (like 6"), then glue a new section back in, with a coupler on each end.
This sounds simple and easy, however, I am really having a hard time with this as the pipe diameter is so large that there is no flex, so once I glue one end on, the other end just will not go in. I ended up having to cut the pipe such that only 1/4" goes into the socket of the coupling, and I had to struggle a long time to even get that much to go in.
I am sure I am not doing it right and there must be an easier way.
Thanks in advance,
MC
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Are you sure you have the right couplings for the pipe? There are some very similar size PVC pipes. Make sure you aren't just guessing it is schedule 40. Look for markings on the pipe.

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The couplings are exact size, the clearance I need is in the longitudinal direction to be able to get them apart enough so one can fit over the other.

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MiamiCuse wrote:

I know I have seen "slip" couplings, but I can't remember where. No shoulder in the middle, they slip over the pipe for just such a repair.
--
js





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You would be best to dig until you get to bend, and then dig a few feet past the bend. That way you can move the pipe at the break back and forth so that it gets fully seated in the new couplings.
An alternative is to use a clamp-on repair kit. It clamps over the existing pipe without having to move it back and forth. Personally, I'd just dig up enough pipe so that I could get it properly seated in the couplings.

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I would do that, but that's when I ran into roots, gravel etc...so it's difficult. The pipe diameter is too large to give a bend with a short distance...I might have to dig 8-10' to make it work. I thought may be there is a coupling that is not socketxsocket but just a slip coupling that will allow me to apply the solvent, slide onto one pipe, align the two, apply cement to both end, and in a split second slide the slip coupling back ontot both pipes. But I could find no such thing.
Thanks,
MC

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cheap
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$5.60 for a Compression Repair Coupling at:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.dripworksusa.com/products/slipfixcc.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/pvcrepair.php&h )8&w0&sz=4&hl=en&start0&um=1&usg=__lIBMvPMk-jmfgQk17lwXmx8rqss=&tbnid=ey5BNvOOYsqqXM:&tbnh6&tbnwX&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpvc%2Brepair%2Bcoupling%26start%3D21%26ndsp%3D21%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1T4GGIH_enUS250US250%26sa%3DN
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http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.dripworksusa.com/products/slipfixcc.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/pvcrepair.php&h )8&w0&sz=4&hl=en&start0&um=1&usg=__lIBMvPMk-jmfgQk17lwXmx8rqss=&tbnid=ey5BNvOOYsqqXM:&tbnh6&tbnwX&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpvc%2Brepair%2Bcoupling%26start%3D21%26ndsp%3D21%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1T4GGIH_enUS250US250%26sa%3DN You will need two of the above and a piece of 1.25" PVC if a single one doesn't span the leaking section.
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Thanks, I think this is what I need.
Another option I was just thinking of, is introduce a "U" offset. Instead of doing a straight section repair, do an 90 degree elbow and offset it some distance to span the length and come back. Altogether 4 elbows but it would be easier to get one of the elbows lined up transversely.
MC
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Too much work, too many joints to fail. I've used the one in the link many times, for a long time. Never a problem, and the only tool needed is a pipe cutter (hacksaw not recommended for sprinklers, particles in spray heads). Quick and easy!
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I've done that but using the 'Dressler Coupling" (as in the cite) is the simple way. I don't like using compression couplings on buried PVC lines though - just apersonal predjudice.
Harry K
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MC-
The multiple 90's repair is a good option...I've used it with copper tubing.
Depending on the size of the "flaw" / "crack" / "hole" in the pipe....... a saddle Tee is a quick & easy way to fix them. Unfortunately, this method will only work with relatively small damaged areas and before you cut up the pipe.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/saddle.html
I know Home Depot & Ace Hardware carry the saddle Tee's (at least to 1") The 1 1/4" saddle Tee is 2 1/4" overall length so I'd be comfortable repairing a flaw of about an 1" or so.
The best thing about this method is ....very little digging.
Why is the pipe failing?
cheers Bob
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Nope. Just one plus a standard coupling and a section of pipe.
Harry K
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Nope. Just one plus a standard coupling and a section of pipe.
I usually avoid glue joints in a tough-to-get-to repair of this sort, and dealing with pipe with water dripping out during the job.
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MiamiCuse wrote:

Dig up more of the pipe so you can flex it. A yard or so at least.
--

dadiOH
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A compression fitting works, but the real question is they should not break unless they froze with water in them, there are line drains that close under pressure, but wont keep in water so they freeze over winter.
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wrote:

They broke because the city replaced the sidewalk last year and I have not used the sprinkler system for over a year (we had water restrictions). The line runs along the sidewalk and I am surprised I did not find more leak. Unfortunately, a nearby tree also had root reaching the sidewalk and so the affected pipe has roots around it as well making the fix very challenging. No freezing here in Miami Florida.
Thanks,
MC
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buy a product named 5 minute epoxy. It comes with an injector , and u push the plunger to spread out equal amounts of the mixture and mix it well and spread it over the crack and it will last forever. Again it's called 5 minute epoxy. U can get it at a hardware store, good luck henry
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MiamiCuse wrote:

Just buy repair couplings, slip it onto the pipe (there is no rib in the center). Place the new piece in place, apply the glue and slip the coupling into place. You need zero flex for this. If you are stuck with a homeowner store and can't get repair couplings, you can make your own by cutting out the rib in the middle of the coupling with a pocket knife.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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