Is there a wide angle propane torch?


I just borrowed a propane torch to repair a busted pipe. This torch has a basic benzomatic brass head and produces a long and thin flame, which I didn't like.
Is there a torch head that produces a wide angle flame? This way the two sides (pipe and a couple) can be heated at the same time without moving the flame back and forth. Wide has another advantage: the flame tail would extend a shorter distance because the propane gas gets thinner quicker, making it less likely to burn the wall behind the pipe.
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BernzOmatic sells a flame spreader.
http://www.bernzomatic.com/products/product-detail.aspx?xmidi73
When you borrow tools, you're pretty much stuck with what the other fellow has. Buy your own.
nb
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Or if his friend doesn't have the attachment, he could buy it and give it to his friend when he returns the torch. As thanks, or just because an attachment with no torch is not much use.
I'm not saying a flame spreader would help him. Evan may be right. I'm not saying anything about that.
But I did do this when I borrowed an extension ladder. I had found a pair of wide "legs" that span windows and keep the ladder off the gutters, and I just had to buy the sqaure U-bolts to attach them.
(I can't buy my own ladder. No place to store it.)
When I returned the ladder, I gave him everything. Then when I borrowed it again, he'd removed the extra legs and gave them to me separtely. So when I returned it the second time, I asked and he didn't want them so I kept them for the next ladder. But I had still offered.

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james wrote the following:

Ask the guy you borrowed it from. A spreader sometimes comes in the burner kit. At least mine did.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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LOL... Sounds like you really really need to learn how to solder pipes properly and use a protective flame proof pad behind your work area...
When you have learned how to solder a pipe correctly you will find that you have a lot less problems...
Its a poor craftsman who blames the tool...
~~ Evan
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wrote:

LOL... Sounds like you really really need to learn how to solder pipes properly and use a protective flame proof pad behind your work area...
When you have learned how to solder a pipe correctly you will find that you have a lot less problems...
Its a poor craftsman who blames the tool...
================================================ Yeah? Try sweating 3-4" copper with a Bernzomatic.
--
EA




~~ Evan



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wrote:

You wouldn't, you would use a larger torch with a larger tank of gas to support the increased need for heat to get the pipe hot enough for the solder to flow properly...
It sounded more like the OP doesn't know how to solder a pipe properly rather than having a need to solder large pipes, as he specifically mentioned wanting to be able to heat BOTH sides of the pipe at the same time using a wing tip attachment, something which wouldn't be possible on a 3" or 4" pipe without using the size torch that people deconstructing steel building frames and ship hulls would use...
~~ Evan
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You know, that's a great non sequitor like birds flying into glass windows.
--
Christopher A. Young
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If it still doesn't have enough heat, and you can wangle an oxyacetylene set up (with the smaller "B" tanks), a rosebud tip delivers boucou widespread heat.
Ackshooly, they recommend not using a rosebud with B tanks, cuz they use gas at such a high rate, but a full B tank shouldn't be a problem -- at least I didn't have any. Rosebuds come in various sizes, you proly would need only the smallest.
--
EA



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On 4/20/2010 12:46 PM, Existential Angst wrote:

nothing. Mine disappeared many years ago. Just heating the collar on one side of the valve, should free it, then on the other side. There is usually enough play on one side or another to pull the pipe out of the valve. If not, you may have to cut it and later, add a piece. I would never leave the old valve in place as it will probably someday leak, if it isn't leaking already. I changed mine in less than a 1/2 hours on a Sunday. I had to call the water department to come out to shut off the water at the Buffalo box. Luckily, they were working on an emergency job about 4 blocks away, so the guy was there in short order. BTW, I would scrape off as much of the paint as possible and, of course, shield the wall behind and the vertical reddish things (if they can't be removed). You should remove valve stem once the water is shut off ... that will take care of the water in the line. You might have to vacuum up water in the end that goes down, or use a rag to absorb most of it. For the upper side, gravity will take care of it, so be prepared. Remember, if there is water in the pipe, you'll never get it hot enough to solder.
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On 4/20/2010 3:35 PM, Art Todesco wrote:

on another post with this one (the red things and the paint). But the rest should be ok.
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Well, if you end up buying your own torch, get the Bernzomatic self lighting model with the "turbo" flame. The flame is distinctly shorter and wider than the old pencil flame. And the turbulence increases the heat transfer a tremendous amount.
--
DT



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I've had good results with the Bernzo self lighting torch that comes with the Mapp cylinder. Burns propane, too.
Mapp cylinders are useless when cold. Found that one winter day, when the Mapp cylinder was in my van.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Put the cold tank down in your britches for 15 minutes and that should vaporize enough gas to get you brazing or geld you cryogenically. *snicker*
TDD
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