Go to groups.google.com and enter the phrase "rec.outdoors.rv-travel generator quiet" and you'll find a couple hundred messages about your subject. Some know what they are talking about. Check for "neon john". Another fellow, I've forgotten his name, is a sound engineer familiar with motorhomes. I'll copy another that was informative.
Steve
formatting link
under the motorhome link
The major flaw in your plan is that moving the genset away from your rig puts it close to your neighbors, who probably won't appreciate it.
In my professional life before I dropped out of the rat race (the rats were winning) I did a lot of work with VIP airplane conversions of airliners. We made the first-class area of a 747 so quiet that the customer bitched about the noise from the cooling fans in the entertainment cabinet.
The main "trick" is to put absorption curtains around the source, and to isolate the curtains from the vehicle structure. The most successful scheme was to make an enclosure with acoustic tile mounted on honeycomb wall board and then hang the enclosure on bungee cords from the ceiling of the compartment in which the noise was being generated. The basic principle is that the sound energy goes into holes the acoustic tiles and rattles around in there while the softly suspended enclosure isolates the sound from the vehicle.
For an RV, where cost is more critical than weight, you could do the same using gypsum wallboard as the enclosure walls, with acoustic tile applied to the inside surfaces. I have used this technique in a townhouse where a new furnace was far too noisy for its location at the top of the stairs. I figure we reduced the noise by about 70 percent.
By all means, use the best exhaust muffler you can afford, but for mechanical vibration, an acoustic enclosure with noise-cancelling mounts can work very well.
The ultimate solution would be an active, noise-cancelling audio system, but that can get into mucho dollars. The concept has worked very well on some turbo-prop airplanes. It produces opposite phase, electronically generated noise which cancels out the source. The drawback is that the electronics have to have about the same power as the sound levels that penetrate the sensitive areas. Again, adequate insulation is the key to making one of these systems work, otherwise you need electrical power of similar magnitude to the source of the noise.
There are many sources of information available on the Internet for anyone wishing to pursue more details.
Frank Damp Anacortes, WA