Is there a pool pump fitting adapter to stop this incessant leak?

Page 2 of 7  
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 18:28:10 -0700 DD_BobK wrote:

:)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 20:00:13 -0700 Oren wrote:

I used to get angry with what DD_BobK said, mostly because it was purely emotional & usually added no value to the conversation.
I actually thought he was just an emotional kid, but then I looked him up, and found the real "Robert" that I think the nym actually belongs to, although there were references to Mammoth Lakes and boating so I wasn't entirely sure I was reading up on the right guy.
If it was the right Robert K.....y, then I was duly impressed by what I read about him - from his research at both Stanford & UC Irvine in prototype development to having his aerospace engineering investments bought by a defense contractor handling the Apache AH-64 near that university, to his impressive array of patent awards, and other mechanical engineering entrepreneurial feats that most of us who aren't Aspergers merely dream about here in the Silicon Valley.
So I stopped being angered by his hurtful comments and simply wished that he'd add value to the queries since his design, prototyping, and repair background was just about as good as it gets here in California.
I guess it helped me understand his personality a bit better when I looked up his patents to find that most were related to munitions delivery and explosives! So, if he really does live within a stone's throw of me, I certainly wouldn't want to get him upset!
Besides, he'd enjoy knowing what I'm nurturing lately in my compost area:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:38:19 -0700 Oren wrote:

I see what you mean. Makes sense what you say.
Good thing I had asked because my first thought was to cut flush with the Jandy valves.
But, if I do as you suggest, I can always cut closer and closer to the Jandy valves anyway (big can always be made smaller).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I think it's the same with mine.
Basically the top (electrical) half is a CompPool valve; with the bottom part being the original mechanical Jandy valve.
If I cut flush with the valve port, I might be able to slip an oversized pipe OVER the outside of the valve, and then taper that pipe back down to the original size before going into the pool pump.
But the only way I'll be able to do that is to move the pumps back about a foot or two - which is fine by me as pipe is cheap. It's the valves which are expensive.
Plus, if I remove the valves, the entire pool has to be drained because they're well below the pool water level.
This picture shows where I think I'll move the filter pump back about a foot or so to:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The operative word there is "might". Normally there is no way in hell you could do that with regular PVC sized fittings. There just isn't one made to go over. BUT... with some of these pool valves, etc they do make them to accomodate two different size pipes. So, there is a CHANCE that might be possible. A spec sheet for the valve would say.
But, why even go there? The straightforward simple solution is to just cut the pipe so you leave a 1 1/2" stub coming out of the valve. Then glue a coupling to that.....

Doh! But fortunately I think it can be done without draining the pool. But you'll need a special tool to bore out the other valve with the elbows going into it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:18:48 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Do you think I can get this tool at Home Depot or Lowes?
I just googled and didn't really find this at the box stores: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvcsaver.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

http://www.plumbingstore.com/tools_pvc_fitting_savers.htm
http://www.ohiopowertool.com/P-4937-wheeler-rex-pipe-hog-pvcabs-fitting-rea mer-select-size.aspx
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Funny you mention that because "I" put that one union in when I had to replace a cracked Jandy valve on the outlet side of the cleaner pump.
And, I agree. One union does me no good - but what I can do is put a union on the inlet side, and then I can remove the pump at will.
I also need to figure out how to safely extend the 220V heavy wire. For that, I was thinking of bolting a junction box to the concrete. Would that work?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, but these runs are usually so short the easier thing is to replace the whole liquid tight conduit back to wherever it goes. There is probably a control box nearby, no?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

And besides the power run, you also need to make sure the two pumps remain tied to the bonding system. That's the heavy solid copper wire that's connected to the motors now.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:37:57 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Yikes. You're right. The builders were economical with that bare wire as much as anything else, and for that, you don't want junctions so I'll likely replace the whole thing (which would not be a big deal).
The Jandy valves are the big deal. And the pump!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:20:39 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Hmmmmmm.... yes there is a control box very close nearby. Here it is, circled, in yellow:

But, I have a secondary reason for wanting to put a junction box on the concrete next to the motor (if that meets code).
The installers didn't add a single inch of unnecessary wire!
So, when I remove the motor for bearing replacement, it's ridiculously tough to unroute the thick copper wires, disconnect them from the motor, and then reroute & reconnect them back when I'm done.
Basically, the only way to do it, since there is a tight 90 degree elbow right at the motor itself, is to spin the heavy motor to tighten that elbow. It's ridiculously hard!
So, by adding the following, it would make pump removal easy: 1. Add a union at the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump 2. Add a junction box for the very thick 220v wires
The key thing is that I have to be safe with the wiring because there is a lot of water and ground lying around. :)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, you can do that if you wish. Use a waterproof junction box.

Alternatively you could just replace the conduit and wires with longer ones that would have some slack so it's not as difficult.

That part I don't get. Normally the conduit connector goes into the motor and is held in place by a nut, no?

Technically, if you want to be 100% code compliant, since you're moving the motors and rewiring the circuit, it should be on a circuit with a GFCI breaker.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Maybe. If the outside of the pool strainer is perfectly round where the pipe goes in and if there is enough of something there so you can get the hose on it. And if you can find a hose of the right diameter.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I read your method again and I got it wrong the first time. What you're actually suggesting is to use a piece of hose and make it into a Fernco that you use to connect the two pieces of pipe back together. That would work for one connection, but on the other strainer, it's all elbows, he has no pipe to work with.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Did you look at the picture? It's all elbows on the second pump. How do you put hose over elbows and seal it? Geeez... And on the other pump, where a hose patch over *might* work, you have to cut it apart even to put a hose over it. At that point, why wouldn't one just do it the normal way using PVC?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 07:14:55 -0700, Bob F wrote:

What I ended up doing was cutting off or removing all the old plumbing up to the very edge of the Jandy valve.
Then I put an oversized PVC 2.5" coupling on the outside of that Jandy valve (which means it was three layers thick at that point).
I stepped down the 2.5" coupling with a bushing, making it 2" again.
From there, it was all 'normal' plumbing - and the results are that it did not leak during the leak test.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Exactly the dilemma why it isn't worth thousands of dollars to fix.
They leak only when the pumps are turned off.
I put in about 500 gallons every few days, unless I manually turn all the Jandy valves off. (I have an Ace Hardware water flow valve that I manually set to 500 gallons which is about an inch of water.)
The water is cheap; the pool chemicals aren't. Plus, I can't have the pool on automatic if I turn off the valves.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Is it leaking at thread, or is the housing cracked? . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . .
There is no doubt my filter & cleaner pool pumps are both leaking copiously at the inlet as shown below (mostly when the pumps are off):

Up until now, I've been trying the "miracle in a tube" solution - but it's really not working to plug and glue and stop up the leaks.

The problem is that the plumbing is pressed fitting to fitting, with 7 Jandy valves all pressed together, within a foot with nary a pipe in between:

Is there a magic fitting that I can slip into the inlet that will fix this incessant leak without having to replace the pumps & Jandy valves?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:28:01 -0400 Stormin Mormon wrote:

I don't know. But I think it's coming out at the threads.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.