That's probably what's there, ie it's threaded. Assuming the basket
strainer itself is not cracked at the threads, then you could cut the
pipe and put on a new slip to male threaded adaptor. But the other
problem you have is that as you pointed out, they packed fitting to
fitting to valves etc, without even an inch of pipe to work with.
To get it apart and back together, you may have to sacrifice some
valves or other components. Not clear from the pic exactly how
to approach it. But when putting it back together, as long as you
have room to the right of the pump, I'd move the pump over by
6 to 8" so that you have some pipe there to make future repairs
easy. That is what should have been done in the first place. With
some pipe you can just cut the pipe, get it apart, use a repair
to put it back together, etc.
In California, it is illegal to replace my 1.65 HP single-speed
pump with a single-speed pump by anyone but the homeowner.
So, if I hired anyone to replace anything, I'm told it
will costs thousands of dollars because the entire system
has to be redesigned & rebuilt to accommodate multi-speed
pumps. And I wouldn't have the knowhow (or money) to
design my own multi-speed system.
I think I'll try to find a way to move the two pumps
back about a foot (& maybe to the side as was suggested).
That means cutting at the inlet, as close as I can to
preserve both the pump and the nearest Jandy valve.
Here's a smaller picture with the two inlets circled:
(bigger picture below)
It looks like the filter pump (left side in the picture)
has a straight "thing" that can be cut - but this thing
appears to be a "sleeve" or "repair" of some sort (as it
has a slice in the top that you can see in the photo).
If I cut that "thing" in half, I might be able to move the
filter bump backward a foot or two.
The problem on the cleaner pump (right side of the picture)
is that there are two 90 degree elbows flush out of the
pump and butting up against the Jandy valve. So, the question
there is _where_ would you cut the cleaner pump inlet lines?
Here is a better (bigger) closeup of the problem:
It's hard to tell exactly how far back you'd have to go and
what all you'd have to replace when you cut this apart.
The problem as everyone agrees is that it's all put together
with no straight pipe in between that you could cut and
rejoin. Some things to keep in mind:
If the strainer basket is cracked, you can very likely replace
just that, without replacing the pump.
manual 3 port valves aren't terribly expensive, so if you have
to replace one it's not the end of the world. The ones I have
are glued fittings, so I think you're going to wind up having to
It looks like you have a motorized valve. Don't know what
kind that is, but with the one I have, it uses a standard
3 port valve and the motor part just replaces the top part.
So, if yours is like that and you have to replace the motorized
valve, it may be no worse or expensive than replacing a
3 port valve.
If you cut it all apart and move the pumps back, I would
put unions on both of them. They did put a union on the
discharge side of one pump, but it's not clear to me that
having just that one does any good, because you still
can't remove the pump. With unions on the suction side,
if you need to work on a pump or replace it, you just
unscrew the union.
If you can do this yourself, even if you have to buy a couple
valves, etc, it's going to be a LOT cheaper than calling a
Depending on your cost of electricity, replacing those pumps
with dual speed ones could have a reasonable cost recovery
period. The idea is that they run at low speed to filter the
water, which is most of the time. Instead of running the
pump for say 6 hours, you run it maybe 18 hours to move
the same amount of water. But it uses a lot less electricity
because the energy required goes up at like the cube of
the speed. But I would only use a std dual speed pump.
They only cost a little more than a regular pump. There are
also variable speed pumps, which have electronics and
are very expensive. Those, IMO, are nuts.
Finally, how bad is it actually leaking? For example, If it leaks
two gallons a day, unless it's causing other problems, is it worth
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:58:20 -0700 firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
How do these two spots look for places to cut?
1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet:
Note: This straight section has a weird "gash" in the top of
it; so it may not actually be a "pipe" but more of a
sleeve over a pipe. I'm not actually sure.
2. Elbowed section in the cleaner pump inlet:
Once I make these two cuts, I might be able to slip a pip OVER
the Jandy valve inlet, thereby saving the Jandy valves.
If I have to remove the Jandy valves, I'll have to drain the pool
because the filter pumps are 8 feet below the waterline. Sigh...
Jandy valve neck
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:33:06 +0000 Danny D. wrote:
Ooops. I posted the original pic by mistake.
Here is a shrunken pic where the marks are annotated where I
think it is being suggested to cut flush with the Jandy valve:
1. Straight section of the "sleeve" in the filter pump inlet:
You for sure don't want to cut that right next to the valve. If
you do, you have nothing to attach to. As I said before, I'd
cut it 1 1/2" back from the valve. That leaves you with a nice
stub to glue a coupling on. Or you could cut it further back,
closer to the strainer, where the white arrow is.
Doesn't matter much where you cut that part, it's all
scrap. See my other post about the tool to drill out the
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:12:50 -0700 email@example.com wrote:
Don't I have two options for restoring the valve fitting opening?
a) I can drill out the inside pipe to restore the original
ID of the valve fitting ...
b) Or I can simply place an oversized pipe on the outside of
the valve fitting, and then step that oversized pipe down
to the standard 2-inch pipe by the time it gets to the pool
If so, the second option *seems* easier (if it works).
As i said earlier, you MAY have that option. IF the valve
is designed for that. I have seen pool components that
are designed to accomodate two different size pipes.
But they are not ALL that way. If that were a regular PVC
valve, there is no way you'd connect to the outside,
because it's not designed for it. The outside of a regular
PVC valve isn't a standard size that you can put another
PVC fitting, pipe, etc over.
If you can do it that way, then yes, for sure it's easier.
I don't know exactly what that section is composed of either.
But why not just cut it about 1 1/2" from the valve? That
looks like just normal pipe. Then you have 1 1/2" of pipe
sticking out to put a coupling on when you rebuild.
But that section is all just elbows, no pipe. So, it
doesn't matter where you cut it. And the pipe is glued
into the valve. Normally, I'd say you'd have to replace
the valve. But...... A few months back on This Old House,
Richard Trethway was working on a sink and he used a
tool I'd never seen before. It goes on the end of a drill and
it's made to go inside a previously glued PVC fitting and
ream out the old glued in pipe part so that the fitting can
be saved and used again. It's made for situations like you
Ain't nothing going over that because those valves are
goes inta, ie they are a slip/glue fitting.
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:07:37 -0700 firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It looks like normal pipe - but notice this huge but ancient
gash cut deeply circumferentially in the middle of it.
If that sleeve were only a single-wall pipe, that gash is so
deep that I suspect the pipe would have burst long ago, don't you
If it weren't for that deep gash, I'd agree that it would appear
to just be a regular pipe.
But that gash tells me there *may* be a pipe inside of a pipe.
Just cut the pipe off 1 1/2" from the valve, before the gash.
Do you want to make everything harder and more complicated
than it has to be? There isn't a pipe inside a pipe. And there
isn't anything to make it burst. You're looking at the suction
Yes, I saw your earlier post. But why would you want to
use a fitting that reduces the size of the pipe, when you
can just leave a 1 1/2" stub coming out of the valve and
then use a 50c regular PVC coupling?
I think I'll take advantage of that reducer fitting!
In fact, I think that seemingly straight run into the filter
pump might actually be two reducers fitted end-to-end ???
I surmise that because of this huge circumferential "gash"
at the center point of that straight run outlined by the arrows:
Here's a closeup of that "gash":
Do you think this straight run is actually two of those reducer
fittings, pressed together, end to end?
Oren, I think we should get a saw, get his address and go over there.
I mean I'm all for thinking things out and planning ahead.
But this isn't a mission to fix the Hubble telescope where you have
to have every possible contingency covered. Cut the freaking pipe.
The really unfortunate thing.... I live within walking distance of
But IMO, he's beyond help.
I think my real issue with DDD is ...
his approach to home repair painfully reminds me of my dumb, know-it-
all, cheap ass brother
(also a CPA, who woulda thunk?)
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