Is there a hinge like this?

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside dim of the cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that

2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my admittedly crude drawing at

[Lee Michaels]

Would something like this work?

[Chris Melanson]

[willshak]

On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material. But here's a look at some like your drawing:

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the wall.

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF. The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?

[willshak]

On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Sounds like a plan!

: Hungghhh!

[Larry Blanchard]

How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece, insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.

The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Interesting hinge. I took a look at the pdf over at rockler.com

They have "some possible applications" sketches on bottom of the first page. Mine looks like the leftmost sketch.

So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner bit, you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear of the door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand the body. Pretty clever!

I don't want to split the MDF on the edge of the cabinet. When the screw is tightened, how does the barrel expand? Looking at the upper right sketch on the Rockler pdf ("Tightening Screw"): does the barrel expand vertically (on that picture) or horizontally. Or just get fatter all 'round? I wonder if the barrel presses against the thin side of the barrel hole, or against the thick side.

Yep -- those are mighty pretty hinges.

[John]

If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then screw the hinges into the dowel. Just my $0.02

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Worth more than $0.02, I reckon. Good advice is priceless - especially when it is offered for free. Thank you.

[John]

[Roger Shoaf]

First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue, MDF is saw dust and epoxy.

Use a piano hinge, secure it to the door with wood screws, and you can drill and tap the MDF to take machine screws.

Wth this setup I bet the door would brake long before the screws pulled out of the MDF.

[Bob K 207]

MDF is not sawdust & adhesive; it is wood fiber & adhesive.

Use non-tapered screws with MDF esp when going into edge grain. Longer screws & a slightly larger than usual pilot hole will minimize splitting.

OP; If you're still looking for aome of those special hinges email me; I have a bunch of them salvaged from cabinets. I can send you you a couple.

[dadiOH]

Yeah except that the holes have to be drilled *precisely*. And even with 10mm there isn't much leeway on the sides going into 3/4" stock from the edge.

They are useful hinges but I wouldn't use them in particle board...I suspect they would work loose in short order.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[dadiOH]

There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.

The hinge knuckle should be in the same plane as the front of the door...that will allow 180 degree opening and no racking. One way to accomplish that is by using knife/pivot hinges inset into door top/bottom...only the small pivot would show.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string to stop the door before anything gets hammered.

[dadiOH]

That will look peachy :)

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone got a link to this?

[Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot]

Heh. Yeah, I'm thinking a big old chunk of chain with a piece of old green garden hose slipped over it.