Is there a hinge like this?

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(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)
A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not researching hinges before starting the project.
I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside dim of the cabinet.
I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is going to be very secure.
I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my admittedly crude drawing at
http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif
--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

Would something like this work?
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id 59
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_group.cfm?&objectgroup_id45&catid !
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try this link: http://www.richelieu.com/produits/popupProduit.php?id 889 might be good for what you need Chris Melanson BLH Millwork LTD. "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

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On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material. But here's a look at some like your drawing: http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php
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On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:

<snip>
Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the wall.
But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF. The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?
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On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).
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On 12/11/2004 2:56 PM willshak wrote:

<snip>
Sounds like a plan!
<Sound of me hanging myself from the doors>: Hungghhh!
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Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
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snipped-for-privacy@REMOVETHEOBVIOUSadelphiaDOT.net says...

How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece, insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.
The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.
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On 12/11/2004 4:27 PM Larry Blanchard wrote:

Interesting hinge. I took a look at the pdf over at rockler.com
http://www.rockler.com/tech/28555.pdf
They have "some possible applications" sketches on bottom of the first page. Mine looks like the leftmost sketch.
So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner bit, you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear of the door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand the body. Pretty clever!
I don't want to split the MDF on the edge of the cabinet. When the screw is tightened, how does the barrel expand? Looking at the upper right sketch on the Rockler pdf ("Tightening Screw"): does the barrel expand vertically (on that picture) or horizontally. Or just get fatter all 'round? I wonder if the barrel presses against the thin side of the barrel hole, or against the thick side.

Yep -- those are mighty pretty hinges.
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Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

Yeah except that the holes have to be drilled *precisely*. And even with 10mm there isn't much leeway on the sides going into 3/4" stock from the edge.
They are useful hinges but I wouldn't use them in particle board...I suspect they would work loose in short order.
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"

First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue, MDF is saw dust and epoxy.
Use a piano hinge, secure it to the door with wood screws, and you can drill and tap the MDF to take machine screws.
Wth this setup I bet the door would brake long before the screws pulled out of the MDF.
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MDF is not sawdust & adhesive; it is wood fiber & adhesive.
Use non-tapered screws with MDF esp when going into edge grain. Longer screws & a slightly larger than usual pilot hole will minimize splitting.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip0090800sn.html
OP; If you're still looking for aome of those special hinges email me; I have a bunch of them salvaged from cabinets. I can send you you a couple.
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Hardly a difference in structural applications, but semantics I suppose......................Not really important.
Squirrell,...............Why MDF??????????? Like building a car from Foil..........Aluminum or tin, not important.........just in case that comes up later.
You seem to put a lot of pride in workmanship and quality on the Bus. Why not your home too?
Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply
MUADIB
http://www.angelfire.com/retro/ssterile/MAIN%20PAGE.html
one small step for man,..... One giant leap for attorneys.
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I did a Bad Thing? An in-wall medicine cabinet with two dadoed shelves, mounted flush, fastened between studs, with a hardboard back urethane-glued and stapled on, the gaps between the cabinet and wall filled and sanded, and the whole thing, including the wall, finished with paint seems like a perfect application for 3/4'' x 6'' MDF. It's dimensionally stable, inexpensive in pre-cut and pre-primered "shelf" chunks, and pretty sturdy. I should-a used something else?
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Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

As you're discovering, the front hinge-mounting areas could have been hardwood to avoid the present discussion...poplar, soft maple would work well. If you could stand it, another way to solve you current dilemma might be to mount a solid strip on the inside to hold the hinge...slightly smaller opening, of course...
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On 12/19/2004 12:53 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

Oh, well, as I've mentioned more than once in this thread, I boo-booed by not investigating hinges first before designing the cabinet. The usage of MDF in and of itself would not have been a bad choice if I had been bright enough to design around a real hinge. I, um, "assumed" that the hinge that I sketched (go to my OP) was real. If it had been then MDF would-a worked just peachy. My bad.
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:
...I recall, I was just offering another <possible> out for the present dilemma..
How are you going to finish? Paint, I'm assuming?
One thing about MDF, etc., in baths I don't like is their propensity to absorb water (both spilled and humidity) and swell...
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On 12/19/2004 1:48 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

I appreciate your help! Between you, and the other helpful guys I /will/ get myself out of this little corner I've nearly painted myself into.

It's up, man. The cabinet is in the wall, painted along with the wall. Blends in real well, considering this was my first open-wall surgery and plastering job. My toiletries are sitting on the shelf -- razor, deoderant, one of them styptic pencils to quench the flow of blood when I cut myself shaving WITHOUT A MIRROR because I am waiting for the 14mm brad point bit coming from Lee Valley so I can try it on a sample MDF edge before plunging two holes in the cabinet edge to take the barrel hinges to mount the cabinet door that has the mirror that goes into the house that Rocky built . . .

Oh. (In Johnny Carson voice): I did not know that. /That's/ a good reason why I should not have used MDF for this application.
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Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
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"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote: ..

At least MDF is less susceptible than alternatives you could have chosen...
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On 12/19/2004 5:44 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

There's always some good news. Um-- what might have been a really bad choice?
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