is sweating a 2" brass fitting the same as copper?

I'm replacing the kitchen cabs. The original sink drain has 2" copper running horizontal for about 2' where it T's into a 2" copper vent pipe that runs up along the window and through the roof. The original cabinets had the drain cutting through the backs of 3 cabinets. I dont want to do this so I plan to cap off the 2" T as close to the T as I can get. It will project from the wall a little but this wont interfere with the new cabinets. Then I'll run a new PVC drain straight down under the sink and connect to the old drain under the floor in the basement.
I haven't worked with 2" pipe much, anything I should do different than 1/2" pipe? Also, I have to cut a T-Y into the original drain in the basement. I was sold a BRASS 2" T. Is there anything special about sweating a brass fitting???
I rip the sink out tonight. Told the family, plan on no sink for the weekend! Hopefully it wont take that long. That's why I'm asking about the 2" Brass T. If there's a hold up its going to be capping off the old drain or cutting the T into the new location in the basement...
I cant check this post until I get home tonight so If there's a reason I should return the brass fitting I need to do it at lunch. ($16 for the Brass T!)
Please email me at snipped-for-privacy@therivets.net (remove spam , just junk@ )
TIA
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 18 May 2007 07:21:17 -0400, Steve wrote:

You'll need lots of heat, that's all.
--
#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007
#1 Usenet Asshole, March 2007
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
So, heat it up, let it cool, and that's all? No flux? No solders? Hey, that's convenient. Why didn't they think of that earlier?
--

Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

"They" didn't think of that earlier because "they" were too literal.
--
---
there should be a "sig" here
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
(remove spam , just junk@ ) | | TIA | |
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Depends... if you're already using a MAPP torch on 1/2" pipe, then, no, you don't need to do anything different. If you're using propane on 1/2" pipe, then, yes, you do: get a MAPP torch. You need a lot of heat for that job.

Nope. Do it the same way you would copper.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve wrote:

86 the copper.
http://www.fernco.com/proflex.asp There is a series for connecting to copper. No soldering.
Install a 2" TEE-WYE using PVC and run PVC up to your sink.
BTW, you don't have any provision in your design for a trap vent...
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You cannot run a drain line down straight to the basement floor without a vent running up through the roof. Most codes allow about 5 feet of horizontal run from the sink trap before it has to split into the drain going down and the vent going up. Which is why you have the current arrangement. You would be better served by trying to work with the line that you want to abandon as it probably has a vent running vertically within the wall.
If you don't want it to run through the cabinets, possibly you could drill through the studs and fit the pipe in there.
(remove spam , just junk@ )

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yes, where the horizontal line from the trap connects to the T in the wall, the vent goes up the wall and the water goes down. Is the relationship between the hight of the trap and the hight of the horizontal connection to the vent / drain line important? what I'm doing will drop the drain line down through the floor and connect to that same vented pipe. This will put the connection to the same vent / drain but will now be in the basement about 2 - 3 feet BELOW the trap thats under the sink..... Originally I was going to run horizontal through the wall and come out into the sink cabinet, but the stud I would have to cut through is doubled up 2x4's on the side of the kitchen window I'm also replacing. The original pipe T hugs these studs now. and the stud is already notched a bit to allow the current T to angle towards the old sink. I wasnt shure if I should cut out these 2x4's as nothing would be supporting the side of the window ????
Again, I guess it all comes down to: Is the relationship between the hight of the trap and the hight of the horizontal connection to the vent / drain line important?
What problems would it cause??
There is nothing else connected to the vent pipe above this connection, It goes straight to the roof.
Also, is the suggestion to use Mapp torch because of the brass or because of the 2" pipe? I am using propane now...
I got brass because thats all they had! HDepot = no 2" connectors Local hardware = no 2" anything closest plumbing supply only had a brass T / Y ?????
I redid the hot and cold lines last night and I'm going to tackle the drain as soon as I figure out which way to go Thanks for any help
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve wrote:

SINK | | Vent | | |_______ _________| U | "TEE" |
Here is one way out of dilemma. Run the sink drain straight down to basement. Install 1 1/2" P-trap (U) in basement and connect to a Sanitary TEE in the 2" Cu drain (Not a WYE).
With 1/4" per foot of slope, the trap can be about 4 1/2 feet from the TEE and still vent properly.
It's not a "nice" solution, but will work. There are limits on how long the drain can be from sink to trap, but you may wish to ignore that.
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Mostly because of the size. It's gonna take a *looooong* time with a propane torch to get that fitting hot enough to solder. MAPP should get it hot enough within 30 seconds.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It's because of the amount of heat you will need to solder any 2 inch fitting. Brass is actually a poorer conductor of heat than copper, so it will be a bit easier to solder than the same-size copper fitting.

Brass is generally used when the fitting is machined in any way, because brass is easy to machine and copper is awful. But it should solder just about the same as copper would in the same size.
    Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.