Is my new AC unit broken???

Hi - I have recently purchased a EHS KTS-60 cooler unit. I filled it with water and turned it on, and it blows out air, but it's not that cold. When I press the "cool" button to activate the water-cooling system it doesn't seem to make a difference. Also, the compartment at the top of the unit for ice cubes isn't cold at all. What is this section designed for?
Is there something I should be doing to actiavte water cooling, other than press the 'cool' button?
Paul
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says...

Didn't it come with instructions? It is an evaporative cooler, not an air conditioner, so the temperature of the air output depends on operating in a low humidity environment. The ice compartment is to put ice into (not to make ice), to make the air colder.
DT
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I have seen lots of people buy these and then throw them away. Evap coolers ONLY work well with low humidity, a dew point of less than 40 F. Anything higher ,,,, nuts. Second you must exhaust the air 100%. Example if you put the cooler in a room and turn it on then it will humidify the air and stop working. Sure it blows and adds more humidity but the cooling effect is gone. Best way is to have the cooler out side and blowing inside, and exhaust 100% of the air to the outside. I used to vent mine into the attic. The ice on the top is there for no good reason I know of.
Open one of the pads and look at the operation of the unit when the blower is running there should be a pan in the bottom with water in it. This pan should have a pump that raises the water to the top of the pads. Making them moist. If the pump is not running then you need to find out why. The switch control might be on vent, i.e. no water.
Sorry to be such a downer.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Paul Turner) wrote:

If the unit is new, why not call the manufacturer's customer service department or the merchant who sold the unit to you to ask?
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quoting:

This is a "swamp" cooler. These do not work in humid weather. There should be a pump the moves water over a pad to soak it with water.
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Umm...first of all, thats not an AC unit...thats a portable evaporative cooler...basically, a big humidifier that MIGHT work in a low humidity area, IF and only IF its blowing directly on you. Portable evap coolers are one big waste of time and money.
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good god man. RTFM. You don't have an air conditioner for one. It's an evaporative air cooler. And why would a *receptacle* for ice be cold? You're not thinking it *makes* ice cubes? That's where you *put* ice cubes to make the water colder.
Basically, it just blows air over a crude radiator that has water (cold if you add ice cubes) over it, which cools the air down and blows it out into the room. It is *not* an air conditioner however and doesn't make ice cubes for your Margarita.
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A person who sits in the moving airstream would feel even cooler because of the higher air velocity, but the cooler can also make an entire room or house more comfortable with cooler air with more humidity.

I disagree, altho a house also needs some outdoor airflow to make them work.
How much?
Nick
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In the right climate. I assure you that if used in areas with high humidity they will not only not work, but will make it even more muggy.
- Robert

See above.

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Umm...we are not talking about MasterCools with UpDucts here...we are talking portable crapola humidifier. IF hes in a muggy area to start with, all he will do is ad humidity to the room, and make the room feel overall warmer.

I disagree strongly with you. In the right climate, like southern CA or Arizona, up to about 58%RH they might work fine, altho I saw many of them and none ever worked like promised. I have installed over 400 MasterCool, and Adobe aspen pad units, and unless you get a MC2, with the pre-coolers on it, and have either enough UpDucts in the home to move the air, or enough window and doors open to move that air right on out, all you do is create a warm, sticky place.

How much what? How much of a waste of money? Whatever you pay for a portable evap, unless its a mister with a hv fan behind it, and outdoors, is too much.

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OK.

Agreed.
I double-dare disagree with you!

I've heard "50 F dew point" in AZ, but R&D VP Gregg Steinriede at Cool Breeze of Key West seems to be doing a good job...

Comfort zones don't care about brand names.

How much outdoor ventilation airflow do we need for comfort in a house with a thermal conductance G Btu/h-F and indoor humidification rate P lb/h, given outdoor temp Ta (F) and RH?
Too little ventilation, and the indoor RH becomes 100%--uncomfortable. Too much, and indoor and outdoor air are the same--no improvement. We just waste water and fan power.
If it's an average 88.2 F June day in Phoenix with humidity ratio w = 0.0056 and a house has 200 Btu/h-F of conductance and a 0.5 gph Mister Cool (tm) nozzle indoors, how many cfm of ventilation is needed for comfort?
The 1992 ASHRAE 55 standard summer comfort zone has 4 corners with T (F) and w at about (74,0.0045) [lower left--cool], (81,0.0045) [lower right], (78.5,0.0122) [upper right--warm], and (72,0.0138) [upper left.] The upper edge is w = -0.000246T+0.03152.
With C cfm of ventilation and no internal heat gain, the house above would have an indoor temp T = 88.2-4000/(200+C) and w = 0.0056+4/(4.5C), which meets the upper edge of the comfort zone when C = 122 cfm (not much), but we can touch the upper right corner with less fan power and water usage with C = 97 cfm and P = 2.9 vs 4 lb/h of water.
Who makes an automatic controller to do that?
Nick
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