Is it entirely me, or does the cheap chainsaw share the blame?

[Toller]

I have never had much luck with chainsaws, but then I have always bought junk.

Currently I have a Craftsman 16" 36cc.

Although I haven't used it much, it barely cuts and when I push it the blade just stops. Getting through anything more than a branch is an ordeal; but I see professionals going through 3' logs like butter. I concede my technique is largely responsible, I wonder if it is entirely responsible.

There is an "new" Echo 440CS available locally for a very low price.

?linktype=product&id=100007327&cm_mmc=CJ-_-nextag-_-D28X-_-100007327&AID=10368321&cj=true&srccode=cii_9324560 Since the normal price is more than twice that of the saw I have, I have to think it is somehow better. Will the Echo do better for me than the Craftsman; or would I be just as unhappy with it?

[dpb]

Quality chain well sharpened is probably 90% of the problem...

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[dadiOH]

When was the last time the chain was sharpened? Depth gauges the right height? Have you the proper tension on the chain (not too tight)? Checked the drive gear and bar?

[Charlie Bress]

I just gotta ask: Did you have to do any assembly? Is the chain on the right way?

I did that to my self one day after I had stripped the saw down to clean it up. I put the chain on backwards. They won't cut worth a damn that way.

Charlie

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[Toller]

>

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[Toller]

It has never been sharpened; it hasn't been used very much and didn't cut well out of the box. What is a depth gauge?

[SteveB]

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If the chain saw is running okay, then it's your chain. You can have them professionally sharpened for about five bucks apiece, or buy a sharpener and learn to do it yourself. Sounds like yours is a chain issue, and not a motor issue.

The next time you buy a chain saw, buy a Husqvarna and that will be the last one you will buy. Available from $237 on the Internet. I have a $245 that I got for $240 brand new, and it's great. But you DO have to keep the blades sharp, and hitting one rock or pocket of dirt will dull a chain.

HTH

Steve

[Bill]

Learn how to properly sharpen your chain including the depth gauges (rakers). Or buy a new chain. Or have your chain sharpened by a saw shop.

Note that if you touch a running chainsaw to the ground just once, it will need to be sharpened.

Stihl - Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance DVD...

Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual... Chainsaw safery and maintenance books/videos...

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[ValveJob]

Invite someone else to try it out to see if it is working properly.

If you bring it home from the store and spend 20 minutes cutting the sandy roots of tree in your yard, then it is dulled and that explains it.

[jmagerl]

[Meat Plow]

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I have Echo trimmers and blowers and they are quality tools but my saw is a Stihl. You won't be disappointed with Stihl.

[Doug Miller]

Gee, do you think there might be a connection there?

I bet you put the chain on backwards when you assembled it.

[Meat Plow]

Will the chain still drive correctly backwards? I don't have any experience with putting one on that way:) And I don't want to go down to the shed to look at mine (95 degrees here at 2 pm)

[dpb]

>> BVCookie=Yes

"Correctly?" No. Will it stay on and go around for at least a little while? Yeah...DAMHIKT!!! (Not paying attention one day... :)

[Meat Plow]

>>> BVCookie=Yes

I didn't think so. Certainly not well enough to get as far as starting to cut something and wondering why it won't. I pulled a stupid one the other day. Went to start mine and the chain wouldn't move. Shut it off and tried to move it by hand, no luck. I though hell, the clutch or something is froze. Here the chain brake had been activated and I didn't notice it :)

[dpb]

>>>> BVCookie=Yes

Well, actually, it did stay on and I actually did put it to the limb when it became patently clear I had screwed up...iirc, it didn't jump, just smoked really nicely... :)

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[Meat Plow]

>>>>> BVCookie=Yes

I thought the drive teeth were hooked slightly? Now you're going to make me go have a look. Wait I may have one hanging in the garage.....yup, chain off my old Poulan. Drive teeth shaped like a curved dolphin fin with a notch in it. Man I just don't see how that would mesh with the drive sprocket but I'll take your word for it.

[dpb]

>>>>>> BVCookie=Yes

Well, thankfully that only happened once and it has been a few years now (and I'm getting older :) ) but best I can recall it did hang on. It's a small Echo (JD-yellow but Echo-made w/ an Oregon bar). How much difference there is between various vendors' designs and for differing chain sizes I don't have a clue. Being where trees don't grow wild, need for a chainsaw is pretty minimal and this is the only one I've ever had any dealings/experience with.

I can readily believe others might well not behave the same...

[Meat Plow]

>>>>>>> BVCookie=Yes

My back yard is wooded bliss. Well blissful until it storms and branches and limbs come down :) So I needed a decent saw that stayed in shape. I've seen many tree companies use Stihl so that was my choice and I'm glad I bought one. I also have a Craftsman vac/mulcher/chipper that gets used a lot.

[dpb]

>>>>>>>> BVCookie=Yes

blade

We have quite a number of trees in the yard (mostly 'Chinese elm' by the locals, but I have since learned they're actually Siberian) which are hardy enough for the heat and dry weather with a little help and ash (which are terribly susceptible to borers, unfortunately). The elms in particular are very weak-limbed and we lose twigs/branches regularly every blow, which is quite often here. We've also had two major ice events the last three years that took out a bunch of stuff so the saw has had a workout recently.

The ash isn't too bad when it's green, but trying to trim out the dead after it's been a couple of years is like trying to cut ironwood...

When in VA had a large yard full of huge (red, mostly) oak and the leaves and acorns drove me nuts (so to speak, pun intended...) :(