Is A/C capacitor supposed to look like this?

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Trane central air unit quit doing its thing (recently made another post about it) and I finally cracked open the housing.
Here are some pics - front and rear of a capacitor and a pano of the electronics. Am I mistaken or is the cap leaking stuff out that it's not supposed to be leaking? If so, under what heading in the yellow pages should I be looking for replacement pieces?
http://www.fileden.com/files/2010/3/22/2800754/cap_front.jpg
http://www.fileden.com/files/2010/3/22/2800754/cap_rear.jpg
http://www.fileden.com/files/2010/3/22/2800754/electronics.jpg
Anything else you see that stands out as being obviously bad or suspicious? I can take closeups of anything you want a better look at.
Thanks for all input.
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Look under > electric motor repairs< ww
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wrote:

Yes, this is the place, assuming it it the cap.
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5/370 should be the cap for the fan. Looks like the terminals are pretty badly rusted. GE had a bunch of bad caps. I'd be wanting to test that one for farads, and then replace it regardless of the reading.
I notice you have a big round cap (can't tell if it's double value, but at the moment it doesn't look like it) to the left.
You likely won't find replacement AC caps sold at retail. Might try "capacitors" in the yellow pages.
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On May 3, 10:38 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Actually the big horizontal fan at the top runs, the basic problem is the compressor isn't engaging. First noticed due to no "quish-quish- gurgle" in the freon line inside going into the air handler as should be happening. A few months ago when it was last fired up it was doing fine.

They are.
I did find a couple of dessicated dead lizards hung up in the electronics.
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On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:07:37 -0700 (PDT), brassplyer

Don't they both use one capacitor?

Those are there to increase the joule value. Don't remove them.
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Some units use a dual value cap, but this one appears to be separate caps.
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brassplyer wrote:

Yellow pages? How quaint!
Enter "air conditioning capacitor" + {name of your town} in Google.
Take the presumed defective one with you. Say "Gimme one of these" to the guy at the counter.
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How do you know it's the cap? You have to start with the basics first. When you turn down your t-stat to turn on the A/C, the contactor should click closed. If it doesn't, you have to look at that first.
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Guy at counter will ask for tax license, and proof of being in the trade.
Yellow pages may be retro, but they still work. Even when the power is out.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thats crap..Just send me $100 in cash and I will send you one.

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With the power on and the thermostat set for cooling, get a volt meter and check across the two bottom screw connections on the contactor ( the brown and the red wires). If you are reading voltage, the contactor is bad. There should be "0" volts across those two if the contacts are closed. The set of contacts on the top of the contactor control just the fan motor on that particular unit. (some of the older Tranes are wired a little screwy) Larry
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On May 3, 11:57 pm, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

My thoughs exactly. The contactor usually has 2 seperate terminals, one for the fan and one for the compressor, so its possible for one component to work and not the other. If everything checks out, you could be low on freon, which will prevent the compressor from turning on. To check, you can bypass the high pressure switch for a few seconds to see if the compressor comes on.
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So, tell me real slow. How does low freon affect the high pressure cut out?
And tell me about the separate terminals again?
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How do I identify the high pressure switch and how does one bypass it?
Here's what I've found so far. The spade connector contacts on both the capacitors were highly corroded. I used a Dremel to grind off rust to get a clean contact surface.
The electromagnetic contact switch works, definitely engages. I hooked everything back up, put the top of the unit back on secured it with a few of the screws.
The top fan works so apparently that capacitor isn't bad enough to prevent that. As I was sitting by the unit after a few minutes I heard a humming noise that sounded like the compressor had momentarily kicked in but then stopped.
Further, on that circuit board there's a red LED that flashes while the unit is running.
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I'll send one for $95.
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On May 4, 7:35 am, "Stormin Mormon"

I'll e-mail the cash to you.
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Thanks. Just printed it out.
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brassplyer wrote:

I will email the capacitor right away.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Yeah, but he will send in by Mormon mail and it will cost another $50. Those mules are real slow too.

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